1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Sartoria Partenopea

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Markboots, Mar 1, 2016.

  1. alpinewhite

    alpinewhite Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2016
    not clear when people say SP is half-fused or semi-fused? everything i head read is SP new line jackets are all fully canvassed (not half canvased)... maybe full canvass can still have some fusing?

    where can you tell this on a jacket? what is the effect of fusing vs. hand stitching ?
     
  2. A Guy from Shanghai

    A Guy from Shanghai Senior member

    Messages:
    2,568
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2007
    Location:
    USA
    

    I have come across many Caruso and other brands made by Caruso...some are nicer than the others. But all full canvassed.



    Full canvassed means full floating canvass. A simple pinch test can reveal/confirm whether the jacket is full canvassed or fused.
     
  3. alpinewhite

    alpinewhite Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2016
    So are SP all full canvassed?

    Excuse my ignorance but what exactly am i looking for in a pinch test?
     
  4. A Guy from Shanghai

    A Guy from Shanghai Senior member

    Messages:
    2,568
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2007
    Location:
    USA
    

    Here is how I do it: You lightly pinch the jacket fabric around the chest area. If the thickness of the fabric is the same as the fabric on the back of jacket, it is full floating canvassed construction. If it is thicker than the fabric on the back, it means there is a layer glued to the fabric (fused).

    You do the same pinch test for the lapel. If the lapel is also fused, then it is fused. If the chest is fused, but the lapel is not, then I think it is called half-canvassed.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2016
  5. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

    Messages:
    990
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Location:
    CMT8
    no,i saw one SP half canvassed, though most are full
     
  6. partenopean

    partenopean Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2016
    This is Sartoria Partenopea's logo.

    Can someone explain to me what this is, or at least what is going on here?

    [​IMG]
     
  7. toscano_adottato

    toscano_adottato Senior member

    Messages:
    245
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2011
    Partenope is the ancient name for Naples. There is a legend of a siren that was buried where the city grew. The siren's name was parthenope.

    That is presumably an image of the siren.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2016
    3 people like this.
  8. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,002
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    Sartoria Partenopea is closed by bankrupt since last year.

    I got the joy to cooperate doing shirts.

    If ant got chance to get suits or suits on outlets my advise is to get them.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. partenopean

    partenopean Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2016
    Why did they go bankrupt? Do you have any inside information? Who is left to re-employ their tailors and seamstresses and designers? Isaia?

    So the suits still available must be 2015 season latest? or did they produce anything for 2016?
     
  10. partenopean

    partenopean Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2016
    Am I the only one, or are you gentlemen simply being terribly polite? :)
    There seems to me a lot going on in that image. There is the overall form, reflecting the elegance of a suit jacket hanging on a hook--indeed, as often displayed in store windowfronts, or as you would do in your home or office....
    Then there is the siren. The girl. Suggestively posed....her hand, her hair hiding her face to allow the darker recesses of your imagination to run riot...and all fronted with some story from the classical mythology..."Parthenope"..."Parthenos" is virgin in Greek...


    It's all very tastefully done. Keeping it real..but politely so. What a nice alternative to the in-your-face advertising of SuitSupply!

    Shame they went under! Like their siren!
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2016
  11. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,002
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    The only thing I can comment on public is that they were unable to return or renegotiate a bank credit.

    My thoughts is that they asked a credit on the precrisis times, and when the suit consume was cutted drastically, see are lesser bank offices, lesser
    real state offices etc you know the rest...

    Yet my patterns, client patterns, some of forum members who visited me there, are yet closed by a judge inside, so maybe trapped in time for years.

    The crew went to look for other job out there. Same happened with Borrelli a few years ago.
     
    3 people like this.
  12. matty long legs

    matty long legs Senior member

    Messages:
    1,280
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2011
    SP produced Eidos Napoli's S/S 2016 tailored clothing. The quote below is from April, 2016 via the Eidos thread. I assume the garments were made in late 2015 or early 2016.

     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  13. winston

    winston Senior member

    Messages:
    1,541
    Joined:
    May 6, 2008
    I've noticed from browsing ebay that some SP have hand sewn button holes while other do not. This isn't normally reflected in any price difference and vendors tend not to mention it.

    Same goes for Isaia.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by