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Sartoria Napoli Surprises Me...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by OCULUS, Mar 21, 2009.

  1. OCULUS

    OCULUS Well-Known Member

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    I gambled and bought my first Sartorio Napoli (Kiton) suit this week and was truly surprised at the fit. I'm a poifect 46 long in Belvest, RLPL and most decent American/Canadian stuff. This 56L, fits perfectly (cuffs only) but is obviously of the hewn-close school. No room to spare anywhere.

    I was half assuming it was going to fit like an Isaia (read: a size too small), but no. This thing is sculpted and curves in all the right places, right down to the tapered pant legs, and I am not a skinny guy. Very flattering.

    The only curiousity was the puckering around the inset of the sleeves, on top of the shoulder. I suppose that's a hand-work status symbol, but I know where to look for those signatures and wasn't impressed with it on such an obvious eye-level vantage point. Otherwise, I am pleased with it.

    Anyone else signing their praises?
     
  2. blackrover

    blackrover Senior member

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    It sounds like a great suit. I'd love to see some pics.
     
  3. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    Is this from Yoox?
    Is it Sartorio?
    Sartoria Napoli is most likely La Vera or Partenopea...which is supa badass....you need to take pics and post them asap.

    Labels and tags included.
     
  4. awxg

    awxg Senior member

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    The only curiousity was the puckering around the inset of the sleeves, on top of the shoulder.

    I think that's what they call spalla camicia.
     
  5. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

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    Is this from Yoox?
    Is it Sartorio?
    Sartoria Napoli is most likely La Vera or Partenopea...which is supa badass....you need to take pics and post them asap.

    Labels and tags included.


    What is la vera or partenopea? Makers? I thought kiton was.
     
  6. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What is la vera or partenopea? Makers? I thought kiton was.
    Yes. La Vera is probably the best maker in Naples of RTW, and Partenopea is similar to something like Borrelli or Isaia, but perhaps a little nicer.
     
  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    The only curiousity was the puckering around the inset of the sleeves, on top of the shoulder. I suppose that's a hand-work status symbol, but I know where to look for those signatures and wasn't impressed with it on such an obvious eye-level vantage point. Otherwise, I am pleased with it.


    The "puckering" that you see is one of several ways to hand set a sleeve. In the case of your jacket, it is the result of (1) working a larger sleeve into a smaller arm hole, which can only be dne by hand and (2) sewing the seam allowance up and into the shoulder.

    Your stuff sounds nice...post pics after you get it altered and fitted.


    - B
     
  8. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

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    Yes. La Vera is probably the best maker in Naples of RTW, and Partenopea is similar to something like Borrelli or Isaia, but perhaps a little nicer.
    La vera is even better than attolini for rwt?

    Man, it goes to show I've still got so much to learn about suit makers.
     
  9. CatsEyes

    CatsEyes Senior member

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    My hunch is he means Sartorio...
     
  10. winston

    winston Senior member

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    If he means Sartorio... I am thrilled with mine. The front canvassing is a little stiffer that I hoped, but overall it's one of the nicest RTW cuts, and the construction is surprisingly better than the more expensive Stile Latino.
    A chance to throw out a little rant about Stile Latino. I love my jacket, it's soft and wears like a cardigan, but the canvassing contains these stiff bristles which sometimes protrude through the fabric and have to be removed with tweezers. This happens on the lapel roll and more so on the shoulders, which contain a small amount of the same material inside. I've never experienced this before.
     
  11. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    Sartorio has 3 makers
    1. Attolini
    2. Kiton
    3. Partenopea (the latest)

    Partenopea is a group that left Kiton.
    I know nothing of La Vera, except I would really like to get one![​IMG]
     
  12. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Keep in mind each one of these RTW houses makes several models where each fit quite differently. While one can give some general characteristic to the way the garment fits (i.e. Attolinie more clean, Kiton slouchy, Partenopea lean), the silhouette can be quite different.

    La Vera Napoletana is also started by ex-Kiton tailor, IIRC.
     
  13. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    In reference to the cuts they make for Sartorio, I have no clue. I have seen most of them in their own brand but not as the OEM for Sartorio.
    Either way, I really like Sartorio.
     
  14. bmulford

    bmulford Senior member

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    I have four Sartorio Napoli odd jackets and 1 suit so far. Probably my favorite jackets I own. Slightly daring fabrics, modern cut, beautiful shoulder, and unknown enough that one can find amazing deals on them.

    The borrelli luxury vintage sorrento's appear to be on-par with the Sartorio odd-jackets as a point of reference.
     
  15. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    La vera is even better than attolini for rwt?

    Man, it goes to show I've still got so much to learn about suit makers.

    Really, they are all the same. Kiton, Borrelli, Attolini, Partenopea, La Vera, Isaia etc. There is no difference, only personal preference.
     
  16. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    Really, they are all the same. Kiton, Borrelli, Attolini, Partenopea, La Vera, Isaia etc. There is no difference, only personal preference.

    As Matt said, I tend to like Isaia and Partenopea. Love Sartorio but have very little experience. My preference is swayed by the deals I can find....Attolini, Borrelli, and Kiton do not fit that mold. They are well known and are very hard to find good deals on. la Vera is pretty much never seen, Partenopea is very rare and Sartorio can be had on Yoox.
     
  17. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If he means Sartorio... I am thrilled with mine. The front canvassing is a little stiffer that I hoped, but overall it's one of the nicest RTW cuts, and the construction is surprisingly better than the more expensive Stile Latino.
    A chance to throw out a little rant about Stile Latino. I love my jacket, it's soft and wears like a cardigan, but the canvassing contains these stiff bristles which sometimes protrude through the fabric and have to be removed with tweezers. This happens on the lapel roll and more so on the shoulders, which contain a small amount of the same material inside. I've never experienced this before.


    The small bristley things are from the horsehair layer in the canvass not from the hymo the canvass is made from. The cut edges of the haircloth are covered to prevent this from occurring but it still happens. It is not a negative regarding the construction. It just happens, although it is annoying.
     
  18. winston

    winston Senior member

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    The small bristley things are from the horsehair layer in the canvass not from the hymo the canvass is made from. The cut edges of the haircloth are covered to prevent this from occurring but it still happens. It is not a negative regarding the construction. It just happens, although it is annoying.
    I guessed that it was horsehair or a synthetic equivalent, but I just didn't expect to see them poking through like 3 days of beard stubble. To be fair it has only been about six strands in total. So far. I still rate the Sartorio higher though.
     
  19. OCULUS

    OCULUS Well-Known Member

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    My apologies for the typo/misspelling; it is indeed Sartorio, by Kiton, with MSRP of $3995. I picked it up from Lance, here:
    http://www.virtualclotheshorse.com/i...duct_id=554095
    where he still has two Regs in 42 and 44.

    They all are navy with a distinctively wide-spaced, chalk-stripe flannel. It is at my tailor's so I won't have it for another week or so, but there are some pics in the ad.
     
  20. greekonomist

    greekonomist Senior member

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    As Matt said, I tend to like Isaia and Partenopea. Love Sartorio but have very little experience. My preference is swayed by the deals I can find....Attolini, Borrelli, and Kiton do not fit that mold. They are well known and are very hard to find good deals on. la Vera is pretty much never seen, Partenopea is very rare and Sartorio can be had on Yoox.

    So is Yoox the only place to find Sartorio in the US?
     

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