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Sartoria Corcos Consolidated Thread

dawei94

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Does anyone know when Kotaro stopped doing knitwear? I saw posts on Instagram as of October last year that he was still doing them but mentioned that he is no longer doing knitwear when I emailed him this week
 

thatboyo

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You can probably contact Dalmo cashmere and have them do a knit to your specs. I think that's who he used. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

dawei94

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Thanks! I got in contact with Dalmo and also saw the Permanent Style article saying Dalmo was the supplier
 

dawei94

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Has anyone ordered a Seraphin leather jacket from Kotaro? A friend and I both ordered from him today, and we both got the silk lining, but I'm starting to reconsider whether maybe I should have gotten the cashmere lining instead. Also, for people who have commissioned multiple jackets / suits over the years, has Kotaro moved the notch back up? When I first saw him, the notch height was quite high, as I think that was the tail end of peak Neapolitan tailoring interest, and then in the late 2018 to 2020 time frame it seems like he (and many other tailors) moved their notch height down, but recent pictures look like the notch has come back up somewhat. I'm not sure if that's just an illusion in the pictures or if it's real, so curious to hear people's experiences
 

Crispyj

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Has anyone ordered a Seraphin leather jacket from Kotaro? A friend and I both ordered from him today, and we both got the silk lining, but I'm starting to reconsider whether maybe I should have gotten the cashmere lining instead. Also, for people who have commissioned multiple jackets / suits over the years, has Kotaro moved the notch back up? When I first saw him, the notch height was quite high, as I think that was the tail end of peak Neapolitan tailoring interest, and then in the late 2018 to 2020 time frame it seems like he (and many other tailors) moved their notch height down, but recent pictures look like the notch has come back up somewhat. I'm not sure if that's just an illusion in the pictures or if it's real, so curious to hear people's experiences
Kotaro-san said he has not changed the gorge height in recent years. Maybe when he first started out a decade ago, but not recently.
 
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Commission #3 - Blue Odd Jacket

I took delivery of this Blue Odd Jacket about a month ago, have been wearing it frequently, but only got around to posting it now after wearing it during Kotaro-san's visit to NYC.

Screen Shot 2022-04-23 at 20.19.03.png


Screen Shot 2022-04-23 at 20.21.10.png

The jacket that I'm holding in the picture above is Commission #4; it's a single breasted odd jacket made out of @dieworkwear 's Summer Tweed Run (P.S. @dieworkwear please let me know if you're doing another run as I'd very much like to participate & order more of this for a suit).

Screen Shot 2022-04-23 at 20.24.36.png

Commission #5 Is a Tuxedo (also my 1st Double Breasted Commission ever)

Was skeptical whether or not I'd be able to pull this off, but Kotaro-san nailed it - so happy with it and to wear this for a wedding party in October '22
Screen Shot 2022-04-23 at 20.30.00.png Screen Shot 2022-04-23 at 20.32.15.png

Kotaro's next trip to NYC will be in October '22 - although he did not specify specific dates.
 
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Fresh out the box all the way from Florence: Commission #4; single breasted odd jacket made out of @dieworkwear 's Summer Tweed Run. My 1st jacket with patch pockets from Kotaro too. Will look to have the sleeves shortened a bit, but super happy + feels great!
 

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Commission #5 Tuxedo

Straight out the box & thrown on with some slippers. As with all of my commissions with Kotaro-san, I've asked for his house-style and provided no input unless asked otherwise.

I'd like to note that along with this being my first ever Double Breasted order, this is also the first and only jacket I have that is ventless. Trousers have buttons to attach braces/suspenders.

I love the look and feel of it and decided to change my next commission with him from a SB to a DB Blazer w/ metal buttons (London Lounge Ultimate Navy Blazer 2 Cloth - image of George Wang's for inspiration). Most of the images of Kotaro-san's jacket's that I've seen have been Single Breasted - hoping to show more love for DBs out there.

Kotaro-san will be back in November, which is perfect timing in case the tux needs some TLC, in the event I get too carried away at this upcoming wedding.
 

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PSNY

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Have you tried many Italian tailors? There is such a broad selection of styles, Milanese, Roman, Napolitano. Solito, Pastena (Kiton and Paone offshoots), Panico. Paone in Naples, Liverano and Salabianca (Liverano offshoot) in Florence, Caracena in Milan. I mean those are some of the best tailors in the world and there are many more..

As for Corcos, are there any clear distinctions between Corcos and other Florentine tailors in terms of house style? There is usually quite a bit of variation in Naples, it would be interesting to hear from those that had commissions from Kotaro-san as to how his masterpieces compare to other legends like Liverano.
 

Crispyj

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Corcos has lower buttoning stance, no drape in the chest, and really really light canvassing.

Have you tried any other Italian tailors? No point making a comparison if you don't have any jackets from the tailoring houses you mentioned as a point of reference.
 
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Have you tried many Italian tailors? There is such a broad selection of styles, Milanese, Roman, Napolitano. Solito, Pastena (Kiton and Paone offshoots), Panico. Paone in Naples, Liverano and Salabianca (Liverano offshoot) in Florence, Caracena in Milan. I mean those are some of the best tailors in the world and there are many more..

As for Corcos, are there any clear distinctions between Corcos and other Florentine tailors in terms of house style? There is usually quite a bit of variation in Naples, it would be interesting to hear from those that had commissions from Kotaro-san as to how his masterpieces compare to other legends like Liverano.
In my experience I've only tried 3 tailors: Steed Tailors (2015), Sartoria Jensen (2019) (Eric Jensen before he merged with Sartoria Gallo Rome to open up a NYC Branch, and Sartoria Carcos (2018).

With that said, the only other Italian tailor I've tired was Eric's/Gallo's Roman style. Other members here will be better experienced to answer how Kotaro-san's work compares to other Florentine tailors.

I'm dropping links/images to the jacket Eric made for me back in Sep '19.

Fitting | Finished
 

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