Saque Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Shirtmaven, May 12, 2005.

  1. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I do like the new fabrications at Jack Spade, expecially now that they have started to use bridle leather in their collections. However, I find that a lot of their products are either plain boring or just a little off, sometimes both at the same time. I can see the boring, Greene Street line stuff selling to a main floor customer, and they are priced accordingly, but I don't see the point in making the body of a smallish, map case inspired messenger in the Warren Street line (which is already less masculine looking than say, a larger, mailbag inspired messenger,) with a 2 tone combination of tan bridle leather and offwhite canvas. Wouldn't having the strap in the contrasting material be enough? The Engineered Garments stuff is not quite as sturdy (although it nevertheless *is* sturdy,) but is much more interesting, imo.

    Personally, I like the Varvatos bags from his first 2 seasons a lot better, even though they are about 50% more expensive.

    It would be interesting to see what samples Mark did for Jack Spade though. And shirts. I imagine that a Jack Spade shirt would be not disimilar to a Steve Alan shirt. Were they?
     


  2. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have one Jack spade bag. Warren street collection. It was bought at a sample sale by a girlfriend. I don't think it ever made it into production. A buddynamed Mordy runs the store. He worked for New Republic years ago. He is allways telling me to stop in but I never seam to make it.

    I just met Steve Allen the other day. I will be working with him on fabric for his shirt line. I don't remember where he was making his work. Really nice guy.
     


  3. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    That's a fricken sweet looking suit. I buy Prada in a 42 regular to get that look, but they don't clock at $595.

    Anyone have the skinny on construction: fused or canvassed?
     


  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  5. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    Oooh damn that is a sharp looking suit. I want.
     


  6. Steve B.

    Steve B. Go Spurs Go

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    John:

    IM Thomas re construction, or IM me and I'll find his e-mail somewhere....
     


  7. Oddly Familiar

    Oddly Familiar Senior member

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    I kind of like it. Actually, I really like it.
     


  8. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

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    I saw the suits. I saw the light. The seersuckers from sacque are the best seersuckers I have seen on the market. Â (Yes one of you may know about some odd Attolini with cotton spun by vestil virgins but compared to all the ones I know about these are A M A Z I N G.). Â My Haspel feels downright pedestrian. Â This suit is likely to become the bearer standard for seersuckers. Â I don't know where he got that fabric, but comparing it to the other seersuckers is like comparing a Borelli shirt fabric to Gap shirts. Â As the owner is a member, I hope he posts some more photographs so one can see the elegant shoulder and shape. The "one picture is worth a thousand words" Â matter. Â There is a "lack of fusiness" and a balance in the shoulder/chest. Â Not too roped, not too drapey, not too soft. Â If you are looking for no padding/shirt like, this is not for you. Â If you seek the heavy ropeish look of Huntsman, this a also not for you. Â I would also urge him to describe the construction technique in detail (layers of interfacing, materials, whether the canvas is cut on the bias etc) as this forum is an audience that is interested in such matters. Â My understanding is that these have a floating canvas chestpiece and they didtnt feel like they were fused with stiff cheap fusing. Â Pictures of a cut jacket with its innards visible would also be appreciated. I tried on one of the jackets. Â The "feel" is right. Â I may want to do a second evaluation but right now, I prefer the Sacque to the Samuelsohns I usually wear. Â And those are my important meeting suits. Â In summary, it combined a quiet elegance with a lightness that is rare. Â I was with family and did not have the opportunity for as careful examination as this find requires. Â He also had suits in wool and they looked good too. Â Will post follow up report after next try-on. Caveat: Â The size 42Rs are Bad, very very bad, possibly made from sewing threads from Chernobyl. Â Thats right, do NOT go near them. Â Do NOT try them on. Â That is right, let them go to sale, then send me a PM and I will risk life and limb to recover them and dispose properly in my lead lined clothes closet. Â It is my duty to protect all of you fellow forum members. * Edited after doublevented's clarification. Â The jacket feels different from the mass produced fused junk common everywhere.
     


  9. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    Okay, from what I've seen, they are a good (low priced) alternative to some designer's suits. But I don't like the pants : looks too straight. It's not like we have a whole lot of pictures or detais to figure out the silhouette though ... [​IMG] *hint, hint* .luc
     


  10. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

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    In my opinion, if you ignore the price, the Sacques are better than most designers that one stumbles onto. Â Just my opinion. Â If you now factor in the price, the Sacques are considerably cheaper. Â I still have to try-on and examine the trousers and I am far from an ectomorph. Â I am glad you brought that up, as I hadnt paid attention to the bottom half yet. - Be the way, the owner was sporting a pair of Vass wingtips. I think that is another testatment to him understanding and seeking quality.
     


  11. DoubleVented

    DoubleVented Member

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    Thomas from Sacque Suit here.

    Wow. It is incredibly gratifying to have so many knowledgeable men asking about the finer points of my suit -- I'm used to talking to folks with a much more limited understanding of clothing.

    And thanks to Oscarthewild, who lives nearby and had a chance to inspect the suit Saturday (thanks also for the good ideas, oscar.)

    OK. Here is the last word on construction.

    There IS fusing in the suit -- it's simply not possible to make an attractive suit at this price point without some use of fusing. It can't be done -- if anyone tries to sell you a full-canvas suit for $595 or $650 you better look very closely -- it's almost certainly not what it seems.

    Having said that, I do use a floating canvas chestpiece that is designed specifically for my suit shape -- not purchased from a suppliers stock program. Just like full-canvas construction, the chespiece is sewn in at the shoulder seam and collar and otherwise 'floats' inside the coat, giving shape while still allowing the fabric to drape naturally.

    The chestpiece has three layers, the canvas, the "horsehair", and an interfacing. The canvas lies against the front of the coat, then comes the "horsehair", which is cut on the bias to give shape and spring to the suit, then the interfacing, which lies against the lining to ensure the coat is smooth and comfortable against the wearer. I always put quotes around "horsehair" because that's the industry term, but very few of these materials (including mine) still use actual horsehair to get their characteristic springy quality.

    Additionally, my canvas is cut longer than stock canvases. This allows it to fall lower down the coat front, giving the suit a better shape below the break.
    The fusing in my suit gives shape to the lower part of the jacket and the lapel. I use high quality, heavyweight weft fususable specifically designer for men's suits.

    I hope that answers everyone's questions, but feel free to email or post if you have others.

    Best regards,

    t
     


  12. DoubleVented

    DoubleVented Member

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    As for more pictures . . . I will post them on the Web site when I can, but I'm very busy putting spring '06 together right now, so it may be a little while . . .
     


  13. boston

    boston Senior member

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    I am surprised that people on this board could comment on how the suits look. None of the models in any of the pictures were actually standing in a way that lets you see, never mind evaluate, the cut of the jacket. http://www.sacquesuit.com/suit.html tells me the pants are cut close and flat, but I have no real idea how long the jacket is (looks short) never mind details like shoulders, gorge, stance, waist suppression, etc. http://www.sacquesuit.com/about.html is better (at least the jacket is buttoned) but it's stlll tough to see the white-on-white lapels). Also, I guess I'd need to see the jacket in real life before declaring it really doesn't cover the seat. I know we're trying to be fresh and stylish etc., but a jacket that's too short is just too short. If the price is $600 for a half-canvas suit, that's not bad. I'd like to learn more about the construction, and then try one on. Sadly, it does not look like it's coming to Boston any time soon. -boston
     


  14. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  15. montecristo#4

    montecristo#4 Senior member

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    Can we buy factory direct?

    Do they come in Long sizes?
     


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