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Santoni Shoe Appreciation Thread

Jmr928

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Good question. It says "Fate e mano" but do all Limited Edition models state this explicitly? Its being sold as a LE model.

Don't all LE models come with the fiddle back waist? I'm definitely not a Santoni expert, so I defer to the collective expertise of my SF colleagues. View attachment 1597815View attachment 1597817
Not a santoni expert other than having a couple pairs of their Goodyear and an LE but I don’t think I’ve ever seen an LE or Goodyear stamped as FAM. Just Santoni running lengthwise instead of across the heel on the GYW and the LE saying Limited but it’s been a few years. As far as your question about quality goes my pairs have held up well and are a pretty substantial feeling shoe compared to say EG, JLP etc. Not in a bad way just solid. The FAM and main lines I’ve had were super light and flexible (I think Blake and bologna).
 

Professor Χάος

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Hmm.. as far as I know the "Limited Edition" models explicitly have "Limited Edition" on the inside.
For example, something like this:

I have seen other models commissioned by Nordstrom, where the "Limited" is handwritten.
Construction wise, I've seen blake stitched, goodyear, and Norwegian welt as "Limited Editions.

It is possible this is a "Limited Edition" too.

Edit: As far as the fiddle back waist, my "FAM" oxfords do have an invisible stitch, fiddle back waist, so I don't think it's only done for "Limited".
Thanks for your response. Here is a Limited Edition, which is very similar. The difference is that this LE model is Norwegian welted or Goyser stitched (I'm not really sure about the difference). But other than this feature, I see no other difference.

22fd0fe2-632b-4b3b-93ce-73da12f89980.jpg
ce8767c2-7b27-493b-a858-2b932955d581.jpg
 

Professor Χάος

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Not a santoni expert other than having a couple pairs of their Goodyear and an LE but I don’t think I’ve ever seen an LE or Goodyear stamped as FAM. Just Santoni running lengthwise instead of across the heel on the GYW and the LE saying Limited but it’s been a few years. As far as your question about quality goes my pairs have held up well and are a pretty substantial feeling shoe compared to say EG, JLP etc. Not in a bad way just solid. The FAM and main lines I’ve had were super light and flexible (I think Blake and bologna).
"Fate e mano" suggests that is mostly hand made, but isn't Goodyear welting a machine-driven process?

I'm kind of confused about all the "hand made" claims made by various shoe makers. Unless its Norwegian or hand welted, can a shoe be genuinely "hand made"?
 
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Jmr928

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"Fate e mano" suggests that is mostly hand made, but isn't Goodyear welted a machine-driven process?

I'm kind of confused about all the "hand made" claims made by various shoe makers. Unless its Norwegian or hand welted, can a shoe be genuinely "hand made"?
I think they use FAM to talk about the finishing they do but most of the FAM I’ve seen is Blake or bologna.
 

Professor Χάος

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I think they use FAM to talk about the finishing they do but most of the FAM I’ve seen is Blake or bologna.
I thought that Blake stitched or Bologna shoes tend to have thinner soles...is that correct?

Also, why are hand finished shoes marked "fatte a mano"?.. It sounds like a marketing strategy rather than an accurate description of how the shoe is made. At least with Vass, you get a genuinely hand made shoe. I have 3 Sutor Mantellassi shoes that are Norwegian welted, and I presume they are hand made as well.
 

Jmr928

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I thought that Blake stitched or Bologna shoes tend to have thinner soles...is that correct?

Also, why are hand finished shoes marked "fatte a mano"?.. It sounds like a marketing strategy rather than an accurate description of how the shoe is made. At least with Vass, you get a genuinely hand made shoe. I have 3 Sutor Mantellassi shoes that are Norwegian welted, and I presume they are hand made as well.
You answered your own question.
 

Professor Χάος

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You answered your own question.
Santoni FAM and Goodyear LE seem to focus on beautiful patinas, but in my opinion, only the Norwegian welted variety are worth the money (more than $500). I may prefer to save up to buy Norwegian welted Paolo Scafora, which seem impossible to find at a discount. There's also Vass Goyser stitching, which comes at no extra cost.

Here is pair of Santoni LE that look like they're worth the money. I would pay $600 for these (although they retail at $2500)

1619117676266.png
 

Professor Χάος

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Hmm.. as far as I know the "Limited Edition" models explicitly have "Limited Edition" on the inside.
For example, something like this:

I have seen other models commissioned by Nordstrom, where the "Limited" is handwritten.
Construction wise, I've seen blake stitched, goodyear, and Norwegian welt as "Limited Editions.

It is possible this is a "Limited Edition" too.

Edit: As far as the fiddle back waist, my "FAM" oxfords do have an invisible stitch, fiddle back waist, so I don't think it's only done for "Limited".
According to the Santoni website, this is a LE and retails for $3,750, but it only has FAM written inside the shoe.

1619130357567.png
 

E. coli

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Hello E. Coli,

Thanks for your response. I can get this pair of Santoni Limited Edition for $500. Is that a good deal?
Does the paint wear off? Are Santonis really more comfortable than other brands? Would you compare them favorably to JL and EG? View attachment 1597617
I agree with WSB17, indeed a good deal for FAM/LE, if you like them grab'em. The Unique Zero Cut just entranced me, so much I ended up picking up both the boot and oxford. IMHO- beautifully crafted, well built, and at least a notch above my JL and EG offerings and half notch above my St.Crispins. WSB17 posted a link to an EBay seller that currently has several Uniqua oxfords in a couple of sizes so you may want to check it out- that's where I got mine last year when the seller only had two pairs. Seller at the time was pretty generous with my best offer. BTW- YOOX currently has both the Uniqua boot and oxford for sale, although not as much of a bargain still cheaper than the MSRP when they were featured on Mr. Porter.
 

Professor Χάος

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I wouldn't be too caught up with the "Limited Edition" moniker both of my Uniquas have only FAM.
Thanks for your advice and review of your LE shoes. I will consider them seriously.

The price on Yoox for a Uniqua is $1900, but I may be able to get it at a much better price.

I am unsure whether to buy a Uniqua Navy Blue or this variety, which is a slightly lighter color (in museum calf) and has some interesting stitching (I suppose that's Goyser).....any opinions?

NMN65NS_mz.jpg
DSC_0152.JPG
 

Betelgeuse

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Santoni FAM and Goodyear LE seem to focus on beautiful patinas, but in my opinion, only the Norwegian welted variety are worth the money (more than $500). I may prefer to save up to buy Norwegian welted Paolo Scafora, which seem impossible to find at a discount. There's also Vass Goyser stitching, which comes at no extra cost.

Here is pair of Santoni LE that look like they're worth the money. I would pay $600 for these (although they retail at $2500)

View attachment 1597873
Well, that is most likely because those are Novergese, so that type of construction has to be indeed, made by hand.
 

Professor Χάος

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I wouldn't be too caught up with the "Limited Edition" moniker both of my Uniquas have only FAM.
Size 10UK in this model turned out to be too small, so I inquired about 10.5UK in the Uniqua.

If that doesn't work, I may invest in a Vass F last Blue Museum Calf. Any opinions?

Vass F Blue Museum.jpg
 

Jmr928

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Size 10UK in this model turned out to be too small, so I inquired about 10.5UK in the Uniqua.

If that doesn't work, I may invest in a Vass F last Blue Museum Calf. Any opinions?

View attachment 1598653
Obviously they're completely different shoes and kind of all over the map. You initially posted a brown reverse stitched oxford, right? Then jumped to a blue seamless wholecut with a backup as a museum blue adelaide. I'd maybe think about what box you're trying to check for yourself and for what reason.
 

Professor Χάος

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Obviously they're completely different shoes and kind of all over the map. You initially posted a brown reverse stitched oxford, right? Then jumped to a blue seamless wholecut with a backup as a museum blue adelaide. I'd maybe think about what box you're trying to check for yourself and for what reason.
Yes, that makes sense. I'm just trying to add some color and variety to my collection.

I own 17 pairs of shoes, of which 13 are new and unworn: JL, EG, G&G, Vass, SM (Norwegian welted), Enzo Bonafe (hand welted), and Zegna couture (which are highly under-rated in my opinion). Hence, I don't need new shoes. Instead, I appreciate the artistry of well made shoes. I was thinking of adding the following to my sartorial oeuvre:

One or two Santoni LE
Several more G&G
Two more Vass
Three Paolo Sacafora Norwegian welted,
and a few Antonio Meccariello..

Like Hugo Jacomet, I have a hard time breaking in new shoes because I don't want to spoil their unblemished soles.
I know that's strange...but I'll get around to wearing all of them one day. :)
 

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