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San Francisco Alterations tailor

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Dempsy444, Dec 9, 2011.

  1. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    Thanks for sharing. Great idea!
     
  2. NiceGuyTom

    NiceGuyTom Well-Known Member

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  3. gamblor

    gamblor Senior member

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    Think these are Kilgour house altered tipped cuffs, I also use Andy.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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  5. MrPhineasCole

    MrPhineasCole Member

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    Does anyone else have additional images of the inner workings of slanted pant cuffs? My tailor and I are interested in figuring out this trick.

    Thank you Despos and Gamblor for providing pictures to spark our curiosity.
     
  6. k4lnamja

    k4lnamja Senior member

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    Question for all

    Today I brought in 2 Zegna Mainline's and an Isaia to Victor's. Really nice man and extremely helpful but I was taken back by the price! I guess the prices in SF are much more than in LA?!

    For 3 suits (one was a 3 piece) the total was $931!! The most I've paid is from $150-200 per suit. The fixes were:

    clearing the bunched up part near the back of the neck area (middle shoulder), sleeve lengthen or shorten, taken in sides (he charged me for the front side AND the back side near the back of the arm area), taken in the sides of the the vent area, taking in the waist of the pants, slimming the legs and shortening the length of the pants.

    I know this is A LOT of work but 300+ per suit worth?

    Please let me know
     
  7. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    I had a suit taken to be tailored-the sides were taken in, sleeves shortened, length of the coat shortened and the chest area taken in. $400. The pants Ihad the waist taken in and had it cuffed. $40
     
  8. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    You might look into my tailor in Menlo Park, Bob Stankovic.
    Many other Style Forum members also recommend him.
    He's successfully done some complicated work for me.
    He tends to be late with his alterations unless you express urgency.
    He's a really nice guy.

    Bob Stankovic

    650-323-9614
     
  9. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    We used to do these at army officer college. In fact we did them with a curve. The secret is to open the trouser seams, make a paper to accommodate the new curved cuffs, and then restitch.

    Not easy, and it took a while to learn the secrets from the older officers because we never did find civilian tailors who knew how to do this.
     
  10. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    Can you please elaborate on the bolded? By paper, do you mean paper pattern?
     
  11. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    Sorry, yes, I meant to say "Paper Pattern"

    the trouble with curving a cuffed bottom is that the fabric needs to be wider at the top of the cuff than the width of the trouser, or else the seam crumples.

    If you fold a piece of paper you will notice that you cannot achieve a curve unless you tuck in at the bottom and release at the top of the cuff. A fairly accurate paper pattern is required. None of us were tailors so we had to learn through trial and error until the previous intake of officers showed us a few tricks after graduating.

    The strange thing is, after doing it once or twice it was not so difficult, but I think I would manage to do it again if I tried today.
     
  12. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    Thankyou for your informative reply.
     
  13. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Clever work with the slanting cuffs despos, I am going to try and figure this out over the next few days. I am not betting on myself but I can think of a few portly fellows this would have been handy for.
    Brendon
     
  14. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Can you enlighten us on how to do this? My tailor says he can't slant cuffed hems much, but he's willing to learn...
     
  15. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    BTW, I ended up going with Victor on Sutter St. and have found him to be excellent.
     

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