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Samuelsohn MTM vs Coppley MTM

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by stat1, Feb 8, 2010.

  1. stat1

    stat1 Senior member

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    Does anyone have any experience with Samuelsohn or Coppley MTM? I was considering some OTR suits but the manager suggested I might go Samuelsohn or Coppley MTM. I'm in between a 38 and a 40 and in between a short and regular. I'm looking for a nice fitted look. I was hoping to get some opinions in terms of quality and value. I don't mind paying a premium if the construction is commensurate with price. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Albern

    Albern Senior member

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    I've never gone through either MTM program but I understand that the Samuelsohn jackets are fully or partially canvased while Coppley jackets are only fused.
     
  3. JSWBAR

    JSWBAR Member

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    I've never gone through either MTM program but I understand that the Samuelsohn jackets are fully or partially canvased while Coppley jackets are only fused.

    While I've never actually gone through either program either, I did phone Coppley's customer service line while considering getting a suit made through either them or Samuelsohn a couple of months ago and I was told that their MTM stuff was half-canvassed only. There was no fused or fully canvassed to choose from.
     
  4. Rusty G.

    Rusty G. Senior member

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    I've got several Samuelsohn suits and jackets. The quality is fantastic and they last for years.
     
  5. stat1

    stat1 Senior member

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    I've got several Samuelsohn suits and jackets. The quality is fantastic and they last for years.


    Thanks for your input. Hopefully, they have a cut to my liking.
     
  6. stat1

    stat1 Senior member

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    While I've never actually gone through either program either, I did phone Coppley's customer service line while considering getting a suit made through either them or Samuelsohn a couple of months ago and I was told that their MTM stuff was half-canvassed only. There was no fused or fully canvassed to choose from.


    Thansk for you help. Was this recent? Someone told me that their newer stuff mught be fully canvased. Thanks.
     
  7. Young Pro

    Young Pro Senior member

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    I have MTM suits by both, from Harry Rosen, and prefer the Samuelsohn for the reasons above. The full canvassing makes the Sammy hold its shape better over time. In addition, Samuelsohn has more models to choose from, and I have found one with a great silhouette for me (the Todd, with relatively unpadded, roped shoulders and good waist suppression).


    In my experience, it was only about a 10-15% upcharge versus Coppley, which I think is well worth it at that price level.
     
  8. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

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    Does anyone have any experience with Samuelsohn or Coppley MTM? I was considering some OTR suits but the manager suggested I might go Samuelsohn or Coppley MTM. I'm in between a 38 and a 40 and in between a short and regular. I'm looking for a nice fitted look. I was hoping to get some opinions in terms of quality and value. I don't mind paying a premium if the construction is commensurate with price. Thanks in advance.

    Coppley may have a wider range of fabrics to choose from but I'd go with Samuelsohn for their better quality and make. Their newer suit body (Geo/Gable) is a more modern cut - trim, short, soft shoulders... FTR, I own many OTR Sammys but no MTM and my good friend gets a lot of his suits from Coppley MTM so I've seen them.
     
  9. stat1

    stat1 Senior member

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    Jan 19, 2010
    I have MTM suits by both, from Harry Rosen, and prefer the Samuelsohn for the reasons above. The full canvassing makes the Sammy hold its shape better over time. In addition, Samuelsohn has more models to choose from, and I have found one with a great silhouette for me (the Todd, with relatively unpadded, roped shoulders and good waist suppression).


    In my experience, it was only about a 10-15% upcharge versus Coppley, which I think is well worth it at that price level.


    Thanks for replying to my post. I was hoping you could help me with a few questions. From my understanding, I will be picking different cuts from a book. I know there is a small description of the cut but how do I know which style fits me best. I'm fairly certain they don't have "try on" jackets or anything like that. I know the look that I want, but is there a way to know which model might suit me best or do I need to rely on the knowledge of the staff? I'm looking for a very trim tailored look. Thanks for your help. The MTM thing is completely new to me.
     
  10. Young Pro

    Young Pro Senior member

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    Mar 29, 2008
    Thanks for replying to my post. I was hoping you could help me with a few questions. From my understanding, I will be picking different cuts from a book. I know there is a small description of the cut but how do I know which style fits me best. I'm fairly certain they don't have "try on" jackets or anything like that. I know the look that I want, but is there a way to know which model might suit me best or do I need to rely on the knowledge of the staff? I'm looking for a very trim tailored look. Thanks for your help. The MTM thing is completely new to me.

    It would help to know which retailer you are using for your order. At Harry Rosen for instance, they have OTR Samuelsohn suits and jackets in-store in a few of the different models (though by no means all of them). In addition, on trunk show days, there is often a Samuelsohn rep on hand, and they often bring with them stock-sized jackets in different models.

    Finally, I seem to recall a post describing many of the different models somewhere, I believe by Zegna_mtl. You should be able to find it using the search function.
     
  11. stat1

    stat1 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jan 19, 2010
    It would help to know which retailer you are using for your order. At Harry Rosen for instance, they have OTR Samuelsohn suits and jackets in-store in a few of the different models (though by no means all of them). In addition, on trunk show days, there is often a Samuelsohn rep on hand, and they often bring with them stock-sized jackets in different models.

    Finally, I seem to recall a post describing many of the different models somewhere, I believe by Zegna_mtl. You should be able to find it using the search function.


    I am using a specialty shop in Northern Virginia. They do have some Samuelsohn jackets I can try on but their inventory is not as extensive as the major department stores. I'll try to find that thread. I may have seen it but there seems to be so many models and I couldn't tell which ones were still current. The Samuelsohn website itself is pretty useless. Thanks again.
     
  12. A.K.A.

    A.K.A. Senior member

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    I think Samuelsohn has four or five different models. They have a new model with a narrower lapel and a very natural shoulder, similar to their Greenwich model. Their MTM allows for a lot of customization, which is good if you are between a short and a regular. I am between a long and a regular, and they have a medium long which fits me perfectly.

    I have worn Sammy's for the past 13 years and all are fully canvassed. You will be hard pressed to find better quality for the same money.

    If the store does not have the silhouette you want, they can order in a "try on" jacket for you at no charge. Remember, it is your money and they should work hard to get you to spend it. Asking them to bring in something so you can make an informed decision is not asking too much.
     
  13. stat1

    stat1 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jan 19, 2010
    I think Samuelsohn has four or five different models. They have a new model with a narrower lapel and a very natural shoulder, similar to their Greenwich model. Their MTM allows for a lot of customization, which is good if you are between a short and a regular. I am between a long and a regular, and they have a medium long which fits me perfectly.

    I have worn Sammy's for the past 13 years and all are fully canvassed. You will be hard pressed to find better quality for the same money.

    If the store does not have the silhouette you want, they can order in a "try on" jacket for you at no charge. Remember, it is your money and they should work hard to get you to spend it. Asking them to bring in something so you can make an informed decision is not asking too much.


    Thanks for the information. Unfortunately, I have procrastinated and I am cutting it close to even have the suit made. No one to blame but myself. Hopefully, they will have some models that will give me an idea of fit. I'm wondering if the customization is to a point where any model will fit. Meaning if I go with the model you suggested and OTR it might be tight in the arms can they make the suit to my specs based on my arms and shoulders? Is this type of customization left to bespoke?
     
  14. xpress

    xpress Senior member

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    Feb 12, 2009
    Stat1... If you need your custom suit in a relatively short amount of time, go Coppley...

    They have a Saturday to Saturday program, and (it costs a bit more) can produce and ship your suit in one week.... They certainly set the standard as far as turnaround, all in all its pretty amazing what they can do

    And for my 2 cents... I've had Samuelsohn and Coppley MTM's...
    The choice REALLY depends on the price. As far as quality, I've had my first Coppley MTM for going on 5 years now, and it still gets weekly to bi-weekly rotation time, and shows minimal if any wear at all...

    My local store has Coppley MTM starting at about a $1100 CND, and the closest Samuelsohn store quoted me $2450 CND last week...

    In this instance, I would go Coppley every single time..

    If the price was neglegable, I would probably go with the salesman I thought was better qualified

    Good luck!
     
  15. stat1

    stat1 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jan 19, 2010
    Stat1... If you need your custom suit in a relatively short amount of time, go Coppley...

    They have a Saturday to Saturday program, and (it costs a bit more) can produce and ship your suit in one week.... They certainly set the standard as far as turnaround, all in all its pretty amazing what they can do

    And for my 2 cents... I've had Samuelsohn and Coppley MTM's...
    The choice REALLY depends on the price. As far as quality, I've had my first Coppley MTM for going on 5 years now, and it still gets weekly to bi-weekly rotation time, and shows minimal if any wear at all...

    My local store has Coppley MTM starting at about a $1100 CND, and the closest Samuelsohn store quoted me $2450 CND last week...

    In this instance, I would go Coppley every single time..

    If the price was neglegable, I would probably go with the salesman I thought was better qualified

    Good luck!


    Thanks for your help. The store owner told me about Coppley's incredibly fast turnaround which was one of the reasons he recommended it to me. However, after doing some research it seems most were willing to pay the "slight" premium for a fully canvassed Samuelsohn. The store owner could not speak more about Coppley because officially he has not started selling the label. He wanted me to come in when he was meeting with his vendor (who sells him ties) to discuss Coppley. In your opinion is the fully canvassed aspect not worth the cash? Thanks again!
     
  16. JSWBAR

    JSWBAR Member

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    Feb 1, 2009
    Thansk for you help. Was this recent? Someone told me that their newer stuff mught be fully canvased. Thanks.

    It was around December 20th, I don't think they've added anything in the meantime. Do be aware that there is a difference between the Saturday-to-Saturday program and the regular MTM program with Coppley. They don't really make the difference between Accumeasure (Saturday-to-Saturday) and "Full" MTM clear, but it seems like if you're harder to fit you may want the full program. Their customer service is fairly helpful; I'd recommend giving them a call to clarify the issue.
     
  17. stat1

    stat1 Senior member

    Messages:
    155
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    Jan 19, 2010
    It was around December 20th, I don't think they've added anything in the meantime. Do be aware that there is a difference between the Saturday-to-Saturday program and the regular MTM program with Coppley. They don't really make the difference between Accumeasure (Saturday-to-Saturday) and "Full" MTM clear, but it seems like if you're harder to fit you may want the full program. Their customer service is fairly helpful; I'd recommend giving them a call to clarify the issue.


    I'll try that. Thanks again.
     
  18. japhi

    japhi Member

    Messages:
    7
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    Jan 31, 2010
    I can't seem to fit OTR so I buy a few MTM Coppley suits every February - I'm very happy with the quality. The oldest one probably has 75 days on it and still looks great.

    I think the key to MTM is having a good sales person that can spend some time going through fabrics and measuring you for the right fit. I don't have great taste and my Harry's rep will tell me if a fabric isn't the best quality, and recommend something with a better hand.

    As for a one week turn, mine seem to take 4-5 weeks.
     
  19. stat1

    stat1 Senior member

    Messages:
    155
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    I can't seem to fit OTR so I buy a few MTM Coppley suits every February - I'm very happy with the quality. The oldest one probably has 75 days on it and still looks great.

    I think the key to MTM is having a good sales person that can spend some time going through fabrics and measuring you for the right fit. I don't have great taste and my Harry's rep will tell me if a fabric isn't the best quality, and recommend something with a better hand.

    As for a one week turn, mine seem to take 4-5 weeks.


    Thanks for your help. I'll have to check with the rep to see how fast they can turn it around. I was quoted 4 weeks for Samuelsohn and 12 days for Coppley.
     
  20. oilers

    oilers Member

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    12
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    Dec 7, 2009
    I know both products well, so I will offer my advice.

    Samuelsohn and Coppley both make great garments for their price. I have probably 10 MTM garments in both Coppley and Samuelsohn. Samuelsohn is a much better made garment due to its canvassing and many different fits. Samuelsohn has two new fits out known as the Geo and the Arno. The Geo is a more modern fitting suit with a 7 inch drop, shorter body, narrower lapel and French facing interior. The Arno I find is a similar cut to a Canali 13220 body which is what Canali has been producing for years. IMO the Samuelsohn is worth the extra price, I have sold off many of my Coppley MTMs (I know an individual the same size as me) and continue to keep my Samuelsohns. In addition, Samuelsohn produces suits for Paul Stuart in NYC which is a very popular sartorial store down there so that tells you something about their product.

    Cheers.
     

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