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SAMARITANS - Help a total newb get the right jeans, ie one of those threads :P

tomtraubert

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i would be most appreciative if anybody could help answer one, some or all of my questions. my thanks and apologies in advance if they're in any way convoluted or obnoxious.

1)i have 3 levi 314s, all 28/32. i was suprised by how much the fits differ for the same size of the same jean. maybe i could post pics later, if anybody wanted, but i was wondering if this would be true with these other brands, ie will several pairs of size 28/34 apc new standards have coniderably different actual measurements in regard to the tag size, eg one is actually 29/33, another 30/35?

2)Correct me if i'm wrong, but though the apc and nudie denims are not "stretch jeans" - that is, having 2% stretch material, but they strech out in a different manner. APC stretches 2-3 sizes, so you get 2-3 sizes down. With Nudie Dry or Raw, which presumably has less capacity to stretch out, one sizes down just 1 for comfort, 2 for tight. Does this sound right? So my apc size would be 26 and my nudie size 27 since i am a 28 in levi 514s?

3) Last question, two part: for the non-raw/dry/etc denims, they don't have the stetch-out capacity so you shouldn't size down, right?

a)For Nudie "dry comfort" with long johns or thin finss, they are true to tag size and will not stretch at all, correct? so my "dry comfort" long john size should be 29 if i want to wear them a bit lower.

b) I noticed a black pair of apc overdyed black new standards only available in 26. http://apc.fr/us/en/fiche_article.php?ref=1C019512197M
since they are "overdyed black" does this mean that these particular jeans are not selvedge and thus will not have a stretch capacity of 2-3 sizes? or are these particular jeans true to label size (ie, they're actually going to be 26 in waist)? Most clearly, if i buy these jeans will they fit comfortably tight, not painted on and such?

thanks so much! cheers!
 

Arethusa

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Originally Posted by tomtraubert
1)i have 3 levi 314s, all 28/32. i was suprised by how much the fits differ for the same size of the same jean. maybe i could post pics later, if anybody wanted, but i was wondering if this would be true with these other brands, ie will several pairs of size 28/34 apc new standards have coniderably different actual measurements in regard to the tag size, eg one is actually 29/33, another 30/35?
Not usually, no. But there are exceptions; unfortunately, you picked a somewhat loaded example. APC's dry denim is far and away their most popular product, especially here, and with their screwy sizing, it's hard to tell whether one of their washed jeans is going to correspond to a dry size or a true size or something completely different. Personally, I imagine this has a not insignificant impact on their dry stuff selling so much better than everything else.
Originally Posted by tomtraubert
2)Correct me if i'm wrong, but though the apc and nudie denims are not "stretch jeans" - that is, having 2% stretch material, but they strech out in a different manner. APC stretches 2-3 sizes, so you get 2-3 sizes down. With Nudie Dry or Raw, which presumably has less capacity to stretch out, one sizes down just 1 for comfort, 2 for tight. Does this sound right? So my apc size would be 26 and my nudie size 27 since i am a 28 in levi 514s?
Pretty much, assuming the 28 in 514s is your true size.
Originally Posted by tomtraubert
3) Last question, two part: for the non-raw/dry/etc denims, they don't have the stetch-out capacity so you shouldn't size down, right?
Sometimes, but definitely not always. I have a couple pairs of washed 1969s that stretched out two sizes, bordering on being unwearable. Ultimately, it really depends on the denim used. For the most part, people tend to wear prewashed and distressed denim more gently and wash it more often, which makes sizing issues less noticable.
Originally Posted by tomtraubert
a)For Nudie "dry comfort" with long johns or thin finss, they are true to tag size and will not stretch at all, correct? so my "dry comfort" long john size should be 29 if i want to wear them a bit lower.
I believe so. Synthetic fibers tend to keep overall shape extremely consistently.
Originally Posted by tomtraubert
b) I noticed a black pair of apc overdyed black new standards only available in 26. http://apc.fr/us/en/fiche_article.php?ref=1C019512197M since they are "overdyed black" does this mean that these particular jeans are not selvedge and thus will not have a stretch capacity of 2-3 sizes? or are these particular jeans true to label size (ie, they're actually going to be 26 in waist)? Most clearly, if i buy these jeans will they fit comfortably tight, not painted on and such?
You're better off learning this sooner than later: selvage means absolutely nothing. It has minimal function at best (it's a finished edge that doesn't need to be folded over and sewn shut, which allows for thinner seams) that's hardly ever used. Being colorful and expensive when you cuff your jeans is really as close to function as it tends to get. Selvage doesn't have anything to do with APC's weird sizing (or any other brands). The sizing issue is fundamentally an issue with the fabric, and more specifically the density of the weave and the stretchiness of the actual fibers, as well as post processing like sanforization (which gets most of the stretching out of the way in a single washing process). That said, being overdying doesn't mean these aren't selvage. Overdying is just dying a new color over a finished, previously dyed color. I don't know if these are selvage or, more to the point, if they have the same APC sizing issues. See above comment about APC sizing with various washes. Someone else here may have some experience with them. Hope that helps a little.
 

tomtraubert

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cheers arethusa! that was very helpful.

btw, this is what i was told regarding the black overyday new standards:

"These jeans are raw denim jeans that have been washed and dyed, so they are
washed and softened. I would not size down because they should have been
shrunk during washing AND will not stretch out as much as the raw denim."
 

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