Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

[jstrath406]

I’ve got that same jacket and the sleeves are just as long on me, I think it’s just the cut. I’d like to have them shortened but don’t want to go through the trouble.

 

[cloonz]

You're very limited with cropped sleeves as to what you can wear with it and everyone outside of the "Hedi-sphere" will think the jacket is a few sizes too small.

 

[thorns]

You're very limited with cropped sleeves as to what you can wear with it and everyone outside of the "Hedi-sphere" will think the jacket is a few sizes too small.

I'm not against this line of thought. This is primarily one of the reasons why I have so many low heel boots in my wardrobe. As long as people make informed decisions on sleeve length, then whatever length they choose can never be "wrong". The sleeve length that hits right at the wrist is the most "conservative" and least "offensive". I do believe that the taller you are, the more freedom you have with playing with oversized silhouettes without it visually compromising how tall you look.

 

[rokor]

I'm not against this line of thought. This is primarily one of the reasons why I have so many low heel boots in my wardrobe. As long as people make informed decisions on sleeve length, then whatever length they choose can never be "wrong". The sleeve length that hits right at the wrist is the most "conservative" and least "offensive". I do believe that the taller you are, the more freedom you have with playing with oversized silhouettes without it visually compromising how tall you look.

You make a good point. Oversized looks don't seem out of place for me, but shorter and often normal lengths make it seen like I've just opted for the wrong size.

 

[SirGrotius]

This is excellent feedback all! Yes, I'm probably too immersed in the Hedi sphere, but do love that cropped look, or to me, tailored.

I 90% trust the in-house Saint Laurent tailor, but the thought that they might use slightly different stitching or mess up the seams does give me pause.

A few quick notes:

• Yes, this denim jacket is fully lined in shearling (they have a cool tag which talks about the origin in Italy of the wool), as is my similar jacket in seude. It's still very slim, so does not always come across as fully lined. They're extremely warm, to which I gravitate in my region
• Jstrath - that's the one all right, you rock it perfect there with the jeans et al. That's about exactly how the sleeves fall on me depending on position
• I did not realize that denim can get a bit more cropped with creases than leather over time, maybe that's why it's a couple centimeters longer than the exact same cut of the jacket in suede
• I hear you about the HS perspective. I asked my better half about the sleeves and she thought I was way over-thinking it to get it tailored, but then again, I suppose I've been indoctrinated with Thorns' bevy of shorter-cut photos over time!

 

[thorns]

To me, I always felt that the cropped sleeves give off a very carefree feeling on people with a thinner less built frame. Within reason, the apparent "imperfection" imbues the look with more effortless cool, like you didn't try too hard, but you still look put together and not sloppy. Hedi is around 6ft, and his shorter sleeve length doesn't look proportionally comical. I can imagine that people so used to sloppy sleeves would be taken aback that it isn't the norm that they see, but I feel like it really complements the slim silhouette well. I also feel overall this silhouette helps visually emphasize one's proportions to visually look leaner and longer. Ironically, this would be the opposite for someone with a built frame. The cropped sleeves will actually emphasize how much dedication they have put into training their bodies.

I'm not opposed to a more oversized fit either, within reason. It similarly projects an effortless cool feeling, but it would also be slightly more sloppy than put together. One limiting factor to pull this off I feel is height. The shorter you are the more consideration you have of avoiding the look of being swallowed by your clothes. It emphasizes the lack of height, which looks adorable on girls, but not so much on guys, but this might be my toxic masculinity leaking out. Also, ironically, it makes people who have a built frame look longer and leaner. It takes away some of the spotlight on their muscles.

Harry's sleeves are a bit long here, but it doesn't look disastrous. I feel like he has enough height to still pull it off. If you can imagine in your head that he is shorter than he is, then it would be easier to see how longer sleeves might do more harm than good. Harry's look gives me a vibe of being a bit more dishevelled and relaxed which can be cool.

It is a contrast to the runway's look which is a bit more sharp and edgy:

Harry's look reminds of me this female model who walked for men's fw13:

The oversized sleeves look absolutely adorable on her.

 

[SirGrotius]

When I see those photos I appreciate more what Hedi was able to achieve in those early collections! I remember thinking it obviously cool at the time but don't think it really sank in!

 

[ViceofGucci]

Being on the taller side lots of sleeves are usually cropped on me because of my long wingspan. Wristwatches or bracelets are great to rock if you feel uncomfortable about it.

 

[thorns]

Perfect "wrist real estate" for rocking accessories.

 

[GG Allin]

Does anyone here know if the French boots (65 and 45 mm) are sized the same as typical SLP boots? It looks like the last may be a tad bit narrower, but it's hard for me to tell from photos.

 

[ASAPRice]

Picked up the dark denim shearling jacket, really love it. I think I need to bring the sleeves up a couple cm's, or am I over thinking it? So much depends on how I hold my arms; if I reach up my wrist is fully exposed but with arms hanging down it's long to me. Most of my other outerwear has a 61cm length, this is 63 cm for reference. Sorry for the pic overload, trying to capture the lengths.
View attachment 1503619

I think the sleeve lengths are perfect for a winter jacket, look to be about the same as my shearling denim. Keeps your wrists from getting cold when it's windy outside and not so long that it looks sloppy.

And on the topic of sleeve length, I think any length can work it really just depends on the look you're going for. I've got a jacket with near-rick sleeve lengths in my honda racer and super cropped with my blackmeans rider. I more or less wear the same jewelry everyday, just switch between a few rings and earrings to keep things relatively simple. Nowadays I don't even rock stuff on my left hand haha. The blackmeans tends to be my spring or summer leather while my other leathers get worn more during the fall/ winter.

 

[ViceofGucci]

my french boots kinda fit like duckies or Sanitags. They don't fit as big as wyatts jodphurs or chelseas but not as tight as lucas

 

[zrn]

I'm not opposed to a more oversized fit either, within reason. It similarly projects an effortless cool feeling, but it would also be slightly more sloppy than put together. One limiting factor to pull this off I feel is height. The shorter you are the more consideration you have of avoiding the look of being swallowed by your clothes. It emphasizes the lack of height, which looks adorable on girls, but not so much on guys, but this might be my toxic masculinity leaking out. Also, ironically, it makes people who have a built frame look longer and leaner. It takes away some of the spotlight on their muscles

Harry's look reminds of me this female model who walked for men's fw13:
View attachment 1503733
View attachment 1503736
The oversized sleeves look absolutely adorable on her.

Agree that oversized is often a nice look for girls. I think it can also be a good look for guys, especially in streetwear (yea I know most of you probably aren't into that). Kind of gives a relaxed but still put together vibe.

As an aside, don't know if I would use the word adorable for that girls outfit...honestly could have mistaken her for a guy but I guess that was the point of dressing her for the mens runway.

 

[GG Allin]

my french boots kinda fit like duckies or Sanitags. They don't fit as big as wyatts jodphurs or chelseas but not as tight as lucas

Thanks for your input brother. Unfortunately I have tried neither the duckies or santiags, but I do have the Lukas which I had to size up in.

 

[thorns]

Keeps your wrists from getting cold when it's windy outside and not so long that it looks sloppy.

This logic on first glance makes sense, but thinking about it more, wouldn't worrying about your hands getting cold when it is windy outside be more important in the first place? That little extra fabric of a longer sleeve doesn't make that much of a difference when your fingers start to hurt from the cold. When it does get so cold that even exposing a bit of skin is intolerable, perhaps it is worth layering something underneath or wearing a different jacket/coat all together?

For people actually riding motorcycles, and they're wearing gloves, it makes sense how they might want the sleeves longer so that no skin is exposed even with your hands are in riding position.

As an aside, don't know if I would use the word adorable for that girls outfit...honestly could have mistaken her for a guy but I guess that was the point of dressing her for the mens runway.

To me, I can imagine a narrative where she's so in love with her boyfriend that she likes wearing his clothes. She likes her bf's style so much she wants to match as a couple. I'm biased since not a lot of girls like wearing fw13 men's looks.