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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by AriGold, Oct 4, 2012.

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  1. scanner

    scanner Well-Known Member

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    True, and I always found it weird that the prices were sometimes up to twice as much as the Mens. On top of that womens has a huge selection and quantity online, but the boutiques always seemed to carry less than mens.
     
  2. therattler

    therattler Well-Known Member

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    very interesting. the funny thing is that the menswear market is the biggest grower for luxury - aren't men buying more than women generally these days? i think a stupid bain or mckinsey newsletter landed on my desk recently with that in it. sounds like a bunch of conservative directors were/are offended with the new world. who gives a fuck what couture clients prefer? do they want a brand that barely breaks even? its always interesting when so-called business decisions are not at all that.

    reverting back to ysl is pathetic. but rebranding a modern ysl is a joke - obviously it's one of the most iconic logos of all time.

    i did hear that there will be a mens 'cruise' collection coming out as early as next month which is not exactly the palladium stuff. it was shown to buyers during paris fashion week, says a buyer friend of mine from matches. some retailers aren't happy because they spent a large portion of their budget on it, and then had to scramble to buy some of the palladium stuff.

    _______________________

    @scanner good call on the balmain thing. that and i bet critics will absolutely love it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
  3. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Well-Known Member

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    While menswear is a category of growth I would imagine that women are still the core customer base and you can't afford to alienate/ignore them (like Hedi did at SLP essentially). The women's stuff he put out was not very accessible or forgiving. It was also a pretty dramatic departure from what longstanding YSL women customers expect.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
  4. harlemriver

    harlemriver Well-Known Member

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    The menswear market is growing at a slighter greater percentage clip than women's, but the women's luxury sector far exceeds men's in terms of size. i.e. you can still make more money selling to women (in general) because there are more women shopping and buying more frequently.

    The frustrations of the guard at YSL are palpable with Slimane. Let's face it - it is a French house. It cannot be fully realized from LA, which is thousands of miles away from the ateliers and factories. It's fine if Slimane wanted to split his time there, but to try to permanently move the shows and studios there would not be the best decision.

    I am not certain how much couture clients were complaining because YSL stopped real courture quite some time ago. Yes, the house was doing some one-offs with Slimane, but they have not really fully re-entered. I can see them complaining if they wanted to purchase and Slimane declined them or there was nothing they coveted for sale as Slimane's designs do not translate well to couture. He is not a couturier - he lacks the skill, sense for color, and imagination. It is surprising that upper management would even care about these complaints considering the incredible growth rate. What they would care about is the missed opportunities in women's rtw, which was very limited under Slimane. I would also venture to guess that some buyer's remorse could accompany buyers of his women's rtw (excluding the smoking jackets) - "I could have got this at Topshop... I am over this aesthetic already... This is something that I really don't find myself wearing often..."

    Where Slimane excels is at is menswear and updating women's bags and shoes - that's what he should have been responsible for. Couture and perhaps women's rtw should be directed by someone else. However, that would have been an arrangement that he would not have agreed to.

    Slimane did some great things: permanent collection, men's boots, sneakers, women's bags, fun rtw, but there is also much room to grow. As YSL is not a private company, they probably could only tolerate only so much insubordination and demands. It becomes difficult to fully comprehend the limitations that exist for a publicly traded company that happens to have many familial shareholders.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
    5 people like this.
  5. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Well-Known Member

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  6. Jbidwal

    Jbidwal Well-Known Member

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    Interesting stuff as far as what happened and the changes. I'm personally not going to write off the brand if it still continues to put out things that fit my style. I personally liked this season more than I expected too. It fits more of what I wear mostly now.

    On a side note, picked up the patch camo jacket. The patches aren't too bad in person. Still prefer last years but too late for that
     
  7. Symphony

    Symphony Member

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    So for the past 4 days, I've been trying to get some Tobacco or Nut suede harness boots in 44, 44.5, or 45 (I'm a US 12 and I hear I should size down). Let's see:

    1st guy bails entirely after I already sell everything to get the money necessary.

    2nd guy sold his pair

    3rd guy has been unresponsive

    4th guy wants $1050 (I'm looking for used ones preferably and don't wanna pay over $900)

    5th guy wants me to pay him $900, but to send as a gift. I don't care how legit people say he is, I'm not comfortable gifting someone $900. He claims that it's because he wants to pay lower taxes and import fees or whatever, but he started to act like an asshole when I told him I'm truly not comfortable gifting such a large amount of money to someone I don't know.

    Is there anywhere else I could possibly try to get the shoes? I don't really care the season.
     
  8. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Well-Known Member

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    3 options:

    1. If you're not comfortable gifting, tell him you'll pay an extra 4% and assume any customs fees incurred.
    2. Save more and pay retail to avoid dealing secondary market issues.
    3. Keep waiting for a pair that fits your criteria to turn up. Try again.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  9. Jbidwal

    Jbidwal Well-Known Member

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    http://www.mientus.com/de/saint-laurent-boots-wayatt-40-harness-1.html

    Get them from there maybe. After conversion cheaper than USA retail and they are new
     
  10. therattler

    therattler Well-Known Member

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    you could proxy from someone in the eu?
     
  11. Symphony

    Symphony Member

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    He started to act like a dickhead after I told him I'd rather do an invoice. I even offered to pay fees, but now i think I'm good lol.

    I just have to keep waiting :(



    I actually might buy from here. The VAT is included, right? Thank you!

    If only I could find someone.
     
  12. Jbidwal

    Jbidwal Well-Known Member

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    The vat gets subtracted. They are also the new slimmer shaft.
     
  13. Prudy

    Prudy Well-Known Member

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    Not to be overly argumentative, but the idea that a customer can't tell the difference between an article of clothing produced by SLP and Topshop is ridiculous and the other things you listed are perfectly common complaints about rtw for any brand, considering the price point.

    In terms of couture, I don't really buy the idea that Hedi is inherently unable to produce it. I do agree that his designs don't lend well to couture as it is currently consumed and this is one of the main reasons he's such an important figure in fashion. His recent couture collection was the most interesting thing to happen in fashion in some time IMO.

    I'd like to think they could have found a way as a company to let Hedi pursue his red ballons and found ways to make it work and make it actually interesting for people. Rich people with no taste will always demand 'relevant' but bland, expensive things. It's a lack of vision at the corporate level that has killed and will continue to kill good ideas and design in fashion. The world doesn't need more couture the way it's being produced.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
    4 people like this.
  14. Symphony

    Symphony Member

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    Ohhhh. The shipping is 100 euros though. I wish they had cheaper shipping options :/

    Thanks a lot though. I'll think about it.
     
  15. youwhat

    youwhat Well-Known Member

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    5 sellers who are trying to get rid of something all in wrong Vs 1 buyer who doesnt want to pay the going rate (retail) for something

    hmmm
     
    2 people like this.
  16. Symphony

    Symphony Member

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    All but 2 of them were selling used, so?

    I didn't even know that the last 2 guys were selling new until they pointed it out. And even then I'm still not comfortable gifting anyone I don't know.
     
  17. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Well-Known Member

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    Would any bay area Style farmers be interested in a private event with a bunch of men's RTW that isn't usually kept in stock onsite? PM me. This will NOT be a sample sale. Would require RSVP.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
  18. needhelp123

    needhelp123 Well-Known Member

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    Lol womenswear is ALWAYS way more expensive than menswear, not only for SLP.

    His womenswear was way better than menswear consistently every season imo, the whole heroin chic image was awesome. You are right though in that it is not very forgiving because the people that can pull it off are usually the tall lanky european women, the same could be said for menswear then, no?

    Course not.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
  19. harlemriver

    harlemriver Well-Known Member

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    I regret the difficulty that my lack of specificity caused. Obviously, the consumer can see and feel the differences in quality. I was not referring to quality. Although, I did have issues with some SLP pieces in the regard.

    I am more so referring to the psyche of a consumer who is inundated with quick sameness that leads her to boredom. In that sense, she could have gotten the aesthetic from The Kooples or Topshop and, in lieu, splurged on some timeless statement investment piece or experience. (Again I know permanent is designed to be relevant for years but there is a good bit of the rtw that is of a decided moment) Because we have grown to think of fashion as so disposable it has become easier to justify trendier, temporary two-wear pieces that have an investment level price tag. This in turn can lead to remorse. Absolutely, this is not a phenomenon limited to SLP, but because his designs were so wearable and omnipresent, the brand is particularly susceptible to such fleeting infatuation.

    As for quality of SLP, I was often left wanting. From leathers that split on me to denim of rough hand to outerwear that just didn't stack up against other high end labels, I was often disappointed with the execution. That feeling was magnified by the fact that I shopped SLP in department stores (not the stand alone boutiques) where quick comparisons were easy: Fendi's mink collar top coat feels more luxurious and is actually slightly cheaper, Prorsum's leather commands more applause etc.

    I like Slimane, I really do. The answer is probably for him to start his own label. He can be truest to his own self that way. I somehow doubt the Wertheimer's will grant the free reign that is so crucial to Slimane's magic.
     
    2 people like this.
  20. neonrider

    neonrider Well-Known Member

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    "prorsum's leather commands more applause" lol. from who? bryanboy?

    "fendi's mink collar top coat feels more luxurious" lol are they sourcing magic minks from deepest siberia?

    who are you kidding dude?

    how's burberry doing as an actual, company, champ? not too well, right? how's fend doing with it's rtw forays? not too well, right? your entire stream of comments is utterly divorced from reality. the fact is that fashion is stagnant precisely because of what you describe. ysl, on the other hand grew dramatically under hedi.

    now you can TRY to pretend that this isn't reality, and that what you describe is a reason for ysl's "decline". but the simple fact is that there is no decline, just spectacular growth and sales. people love what hedi makes. especially women. again, you can PRETEND that's not a reality, but the facts suggest that you're a little delusional.

    "hedi's vision doesn't translate into couture". really? who else sells out 5k bomber jackets...in a single day...that everyone else copies desperately? how do we know how (actual) couture's done? the collection just came out, right? what you're describing isn't reality--neither commercial nor social nor cultural. it's just the usual insider critical response to hedi. but those critics have been precisely WRONG for the last four years, right? so why should anyone give a fuck what they have to say NOW?

    you're putting forth exactly the erroneous wish-fulfilment that the fashion industry survives on. that everyone wants to look like bryanboy, basically. the key word is "survives", because mostly, that's all its doing. eking out a survival that only a dwindling number of fashion victims really care about.

    in fact the only interesting thing about your set of comments is the fatuous premise they reveal. that fashion is a game of approval from the right people. "applause", etc. but part of the reason most of us here appreciate heid's work is that it's really not about that juvenile game of approval-seeking. it's a return to the idea of style as self-expression against the fashion industry's constant demands for approval-seeking.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
    2 people like this.

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