Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by AriGold, Oct 4, 2012.

  1. kieran84

    kieran84 Senior member

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    The changes for the worse seem to be continuing. Last season I bought the wyatt Chelsea boots in black leather from the website and think they're great. The ankle shaft is really slim and the slimness continues through the mid-foot which is great for me as I have thin feet, and it also makes them look sleeker and more elongated. When I saw that the website have replenished them last week I decided to grab a second pair for back up (exact same style ID). Anyway they arrived today and unfortunately the ankle shaft is now bigger, they don't feel as slim in the heel and the mid-foot is considerably bigger (I would guess the equivalent of going up a whole size in the mid-foot). It's very disappointing. I measured around the top of the ankle and last season's ones are 26.5 cm whereas the new ones have gone up to 28 cm leaving a big space in the front of my ankle which sticks into my jeans a little.

    I know I have high standards, and these boots are still pretty nice, but no longer special enough for me to bother buying. I'd sooner pick up two versions of the 4.5 cm heel French when they arrive, which considering they're new for this season, are probably going to be closer to the form that Hedi designed them to be. It's almost getting to a stage where if you don't get the first version of a given item, you can expect it to be dumbed down and made bigger by the time it gets re-issued (so many things have gone this way). I really don't understand why they would change something that so obviously has been highly successful. It's strange - the first two seasons were incredible and didn't sell all that well, things have kind of gone downhill in some areas since, and yet sales continue to grow.

    Anyway my question is, will they all be the same this season? Or is there a chance that they will vary depending on when they're produced? LVR have them for pre-order, so I was thinking there was a chance they might be different considering they have probably been made a little later. Seems like a long shot I know.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  2. BruceWayne91

    BruceWayne91 Well-Known Member

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    haha I dont know, thought it had something to do with Italy :)
     
  3. cjbreed

    cjbreed Senior member

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    i recommended the size 30 based on the two options provided. i get the feeling he may not be wanting the super skinny look, just more of a slim look. i still think the 30 with a taper and hem.

    so how do you guys size the 17cm denim? all i have ever tried is the D02 and the pair i bought is a 33. started really tight and then softened and stretched to a perfect fit. its the washed blue ones with the ripped/patched knee. would i be the same size in the 17cm in the raw denim? black and blue both...
     
  4. Prudy

    Prudy Senior member

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    @kieran84 that sucks. I don't have any inside track on how things are getting done but what I understand in general is that SLP is having to ramp up their production to meet demand. If this is true, that can cause all sorts of initial issues in QC and inconsistencies. Aka, it wouldn't surprise me if, for example, they had to add a factory or producer to make boots that they hadn't used before, there might be differences between runs or even distribution points, etc.

    Not saying that's the case, but I've heard from many people that the Santiag's from SS15 were all over the map, fit-wise, but that wasn't my experience at all. I bought 4-5 different variations and they all fit me the same, with only slight differences that I attribute to leather type, etc. But the basic fit was consistent, and I got all mine from LVR and YSL.com. So, perhaps they were using different suppliers for different locales?

    As you say, though, it could just be that, as newer products come out per season, older ones take on different lives for different purposes. That would indeed be a shame, especially for a boot as classic as the Chelsea or the Wyatt, which I agree would loose their appeal if altered.

    I bought the chain Wyatt's for the same reason, they have remained narrower in the shaft and ankle (at least through FW/14) while other variations of the Wyatt are more like the changed Chelsea you have, wider, bigger and less sexy, essentially.

    I thought SS15 was varied in terms of quality. A lot of the items were fantastic, truly great (Santiags, raw hem denim, a few leathers and the suede jackets, some vests, some shirts) but an equal amount of items were poorly tailored, with bad proportions, etc. Some of the denim and leather items (both jackets and pants) were awful -- like 2-4 sizes too big, awful.

    I am really curious to check the new stuff out later this week - I also have a few core items on order that I didn't want to miss out on, but I'm really wanting to try the denim and some of the boots. I was going to possibly buy a pair of Chelsea boots, either the classic or the 4.5 so if they have them I will try them and let you and others know if they fit any differently...I am just planning to try on as much as possible, I'm basically going to spend my Saturday at Ave. Montaigne.

    I think maybe neon has tried a lot of the items on, he may know more/better info as well...
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  5. kieran84

    kieran84 Senior member

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    Thanks Prudy. A different factory sounds quite likely. I'm tempted to pre-order from LVR and see if they're the same as I want another pair.

    On the French 4.5, I've been told mid-July by somebody at Bond Street, but Paris might have them earlier I imagine. If they have the SS15 Wyatt Chelseas then they should be good and slim as that's when I got mine. Not as sexy is a good way to describe these new ones.

    I'm still pretty hopeful for the runway jeans and coats this season, and I think Neonrider has said things seem slimmer so far. Shouldn't be too long until we start finding out. The second of my pre-orders is now on it's way to me - nothing special, just the basic black pocket t-shirt. Hopefully it will be as nice as the ones from AW 13.

    Speaking of my pre-orders, I noticed when I was looking at my 2 cm Saint Germain belt, it's actually made of two sections stitched together in the middle. I assume this is a cost cutting measure. It doesn't bother me at all, as it's a great belt; a lot of thought has gone into the buckle which looks very elegant, and the somewhat shiny grained finish on the goatskin is great which would add to cost, but still interesting to note.
     
  6. neonrider

    neonrider Senior member

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    hey keiran, that sucks. in general, i think you're right. the original version of a thing is watered down over time, instead of being reproduced to spec. this is definitely true with jeans, leathers, boots so far. i can't say about the chelsea boots, but i've heard that the wyatts are going to be reissued to the original spec for fall (personally, i'd be surprised, but).

    to be honest, i think a lot of this depends on us. sl is pretty receptive to what key customers say, and if you're vocal about it, i think they will listen. for example the L01 has gone back to closer to the original spec after becoming way too huge because people complained.

    i've tried quite a bit of stuff on, in general the fits are slimmer, the quality's a little variable, some of the knits are pretty impressive, the leathers are very well cut but nothing on fw13 quality, the jeans are pretty much the same.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  7. Prudy

    Prudy Senior member

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    ^^ that's a good point, neon - I should probably start giving feedback directly to SLP, both good and bad.
     
  8. kieran84

    kieran84 Senior member

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    Yeah I think I will start doing the same. I think I'll shoot them an email when I process the return. I think I'll maybe take a photo of the two side by side as you can see the difference in shape pretty clearly.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  9. therattler

    therattler Senior member

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    of course it won't hurt, but it seems to me that 'we' aren't exactly the mass consumer of this stuff that is driving the demand for the bigger stuff etc. which I think is why, when I've discussed some issues with SAs they've just agreed with an air of resigned despondency.

    its not just the clothes, but having been to a number of boutiques in a few countries, the staff aren't what they used to be. it seems the initial group of like cool dudes/girls has (mostly) been replaced by dividual luxury types who are pushy, tasteless and boring. this for me is more disappointing than a few cms here or there, however irrational that might be.

    Kieran - im interested in what you think of the basic black tee ... is it the one with the YSL stitched onto the pocket? if so, I was pretty disappointed with it and think im just going to grab a silk one because the AW13 are don't seem to be coming back.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  10. Prudy

    Prudy Senior member

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    Do any of you guys know the fit of the chesterfield coats from FW14? I tried a few on at the time and seem to remember the black, leopard, etc. chesterfields fitting TTS/slim but some of the other coats like the houndstooth and tweed fit a bit oversized...am I remembering that correctly?

    IIRC the chesterfields fit more like the blazers, more fitted.

    Thx...
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  11. therattler

    therattler Senior member

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    prudy - that's how I remember it. I was going to get one of the black ones but found it uncomfortable across my upper back, and then the tweed one looking like hell on me.
     
  12. kieran84

    kieran84 Senior member

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    Yeah that's the one. Was the fit poor?
     
  13. therattler

    therattler Senior member

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    it just wasn't anything special - maybe a bit boxy; the pocket seemed big; and I like a little looser collar. basically I just wanted a cotton version of the silk ones, and it isn't that. post a fit pic if you can when you get it, maybe it's just me.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  14. Prudy

    Prudy Senior member

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    Thx, man. I wanted the leopard-print one last winter but by the time I got to try one on they only had a 46IT left and it was a bit too tight for me. I found one in a 48IT for a decent price this week so I was thinking about picking it up.

    I was considering the newer animal-print tube coats but they have a way more 70s vibe that looks a bit more pimpish to my eyes, honestly. I kind of like the animal print on a chesterfield-type coat better as it wholly encompasses that uptown/downtown thing all in one go...it's dressier, essentially, and you can do a bit more with it IMO.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015
  15. kieran84

    kieran84 Senior member

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    Prudy I'm not sure if you got to try the AW 13 chesterfield that I've posted a picture of below, but to compare the AW 14 one to that one, the AW 14 one fits at least a size bigger in the chest and shoulders, and is also noticeably longer in length, and boxier through the body. Sleeves were looser and longer too if I recall correctly. It wasn't a slim cut like a blazer, and didn't really work for me at all (kind of looked like I was a kid wearing my Dad's jacket or something in 48). The 48 in the AW 13 one didn't really work for me either but for different reasons; it was cut very severely in the arm holes and chest and was unfortunately a little too small for me (might work for you as I think you're a little thinner than me). I tried a 50 which wasn't bad, but would have needed adjustments and I didn't want to take the risk of it not working out.

    [​IMG]

    The only chesterfield that has fitted me perfectly, was the one from SS 14 which I've also posted below. This one fitted me perfectly, but I didn't really like the fabric for a chesterfield so didn't take it. I kind of regret that now.

    [​IMG]
     

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