I remember reading an interview with Hedi where he talked about growing up and learning to make / tailor his own jackets because nothing else fitted him. I really think that what he went on to do at DH and now SLP really grew out of that beginning, in that a big part of his design is as simple as him making the clothes he himself would like to wear, because nowhere else offers anything like it. I remember him joking sometime after leaving DH that he'd have to make a comeback because he was running out of things to wear. Obviously the success of what he's doing and how widely appreciated it is shows what great taste he has. On the luxury thing, I wouldn't want to put words in his mouth, but I don't imagine him caring too much for that world (and certainly a lot of his influences come from alternative music culture (although it's easy to forget that he obviously has a great respect for traditional tailoring and the history of the house)), but to make the kind of clothes he wants to make he's almost forced to be in that world because if not he would have to compromise on quality.