Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by AriGold, Oct 4, 2012.

  1. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    I really enjoyed the jeans discussion here. LA Guy, need help, kieran et al made great points.

    I started wearing more SLP denim recently over even DH, as I like the image it conveys and it makes me feel cooler. That's about it. Totally psychological, but fun. DH is still a half step up in quality, from what I can, but it's not that appreciable and I like the idea of buying new jeans every couple seasons, as my Diors are so old they're getting boring.

    After a few years on this forum (time flies), I've noticed there are four segments of jeans guys:


    • Guys from Men's Clothing (MC) who wear jeans with very long rises occasionally on weekends, and do not think about them much. You might catch them in Polo jeans or Lacoste or at best Versace. They will occasionally flip a lid when seeing SW&D threads about denim
    • Guys who are really into True Religion and Diesel and are muscular. Sadly, this demographic is dying out, as it was very 2007-2009. I found it humorous
    • Guys who are into skinny, designer jeans and basically like Hedi Slimane's mojo (obviously this thread's adherents)
    • Guys who are really, really into jeans and talk about weight, MIJ, dying processes, etc. They are usually found on the West Coast, SoHo, or now Brooklyn (the other side of SW&D)
     


  2. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    In order
    2001-2003 Solitaire/Reflexions/Luster @ DH
    1998-2000 YSL Rive Gauche
    2004-2007 Victim of the Crime/etc @ DH
    2013 First season @SLP with lots of references to old DH work
    2014 Etc.

    In retrospect Hedi isn't a very good designer and more of a stylist. He was really in tune with what was happening in music at the time so it just worked beautifully for him. I have a few DH pieces left but the only one I wear regularly is just a basic burgundy cardigan with some nice detailing in the back. I sometimes pull out my luster waxed jeans, I'm sure the new ones are allright too but it is a very dated look.
     


  3. kieran84

    kieran84 Senior member

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    ^ Interesting post. I agree that Hedi is a great stylist, and this accounts for some of his popularity, and that he maybe a better stylist than a designer. But he does have a skill for tailoring that few others in the industry have. He's also got a knack for making hit after hit - I mean if we take belts alone, the arrow point DH belt reached almost iconic status, and then he's done it again and again with both the 3 passant and the western belt which sell out season after season, practically as soon as they hit stores. Shoes too - already the harness wyatt, the santiag, and the cropped jodhpur, have all become classics on a level of popularity that the VOTC suede boots were.

    Regarding past seasons, I didn't begin buying DH until AW 2004, so I didn't really get to handle and experience the clothes before that, so I don't feel qualified to comment on them. Being a young English kid into indie, I enjoyed all of his DH work until he left (even if I didn't necessarily like some of the runway presentations, when the clothes reached the stores there was never a shortage of things I wanted to buy). However, I'd have to say that his work at Saint Laurent is far better for my tastes than his work at DH, because everything is just so much more streamlined. A major part of that is that the jeans at DH were just not skinny enough, whereas now they are properly skinny, and designed to be hemmed shorter for a much cleaner look.

    I also like how much continuation there is from season to season, and in the use of certain colours and materials. Just to pick a couple of examples, ivory has been used extensively, from the pleated silk shirts and pocket t shirts for SS13, to the black and ivory varsity jacket for AW13, and has continued to be used up until the current season. Another example is that the 2 cm belts have featured in all but the current season's runway presentation. I really like this feeling of cohesion, and it allows me to build and add to my wardrobe overtime, with the new items just slotting in perfectly.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015


  4. Delanho

    Delanho Senior member

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    What are some good sources for some of this information? I had no idea Taralis worked under Hedi. Thats really cool. Any suggestions for places to go to learn about some of the history etc of designers such as Hedi?
     


  5. kieran84

    kieran84 Senior member

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    Not sure on sources to learn more. Somebody else would probably know better than me, but I think Martijn Ball and Kris Van Assche were also his assistants at the time, but Taralis was his first assistant. Martijn Ball went on to become creative director at Verri, and produced a couple of pretty DH looking collections.
     


  6. Illithid Dude

    Illithid Dude Senior member

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    Lucas Ossendrijver, the creative director of menswear at Lanvin, also worked under Hedi at Dior Homme. He left after AW04, if I remember correctly.
     


  7. Abraxis

    Abraxis Senior member

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    Do you see him more as a stylist or a brand-builder? Or are those things the same your mind? I feel like nowadays consumer goods making multinationals benefit the most from a strong brand builder who can not only cater or develop a market but ensure that the brand stays relevant.

    My thinking on this is influenced by Zero History.
     


  8. ohmydontcry

    ohmydontcry Senior member

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    my santiags arrived today, size 42 was spot on:

    [​IMG]
     


  9. 0JSIMPS0N

    0JSIMPS0N Senior member

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    Thanks for the well thought out response.

    Regarding the "lamblasting". I think it was very appropriate, I mean the off-topic question led to 3 pages of useless shitty comments by many people. And would be better suited for the small questions thread.

    Ill defer to your denim knowledge. But, I stand by what I said, for me they're jeans. I don't want anything special. In fact I have plenty of special pieces that mysteriously never get worn in favour of my "average quality" items. So in that regard SLP is the best quality I could possibly want in denim. That's a common problem for many people, they are obsessed with value. We all know the dude who plans going to the AYCE sushi buffet, starves himself for 2 meals before then overeats until he is shitting and puking at the same time. Yes I can afford better "quality" jeans but I don't want to. I want jeans that will wear nice as jeans. Similarly, you can go to a buffet and just eat until you're satisfied, you don't need to go there sweating, trying to stuff yourself to get maximum bang for your buck and leave with shit dribbling down your leg and napkins stuffed in your "best quality for the price jacket" pocket.
     


  10. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I don't really know anything about buffets. I haven't been to one since the early 90s, I think. Or maybe I have, with my parents (older Chinese people love buffets, it's a scientific fact). I agree with you that there is too much of an emphasis on "quality", whatever that may be for a particular person. By the same token, I'm don't think that "what you wear the most" is a particularly good way to gauge anything. other than that this is what you like to wear, right now. Maybe in 5 years, you'll be laughing at how you used to wear jeggings, and talking about how relaxed jeans are so much cooler and also more comfortable.
     


  11. 0JSIMPS0N

    0JSIMPS0N Senior member

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    The buffet talk was a little of -topic, just me vomiting my thoughts onto the keyboard. What I meant was most of us (myself included) have quality, value, price, cost heavily factored into our decision making processes and I don't know if that's a good thing at all. A last thought on the matter, my favourite piece of clothing is an $800 (what I paid, the RRP was more) green t shirt with holes that must've cost like $1.00 in fabric to produce, and have worn 4 times in 2 years.
     


  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    For me, definitely the 2001-2003 period. That was when Hedi really stepped into his own. Of course, this is colored by my personal experience.

    I don't wear anything DH now. I did really like Hedi's long coats, but they never became a staple of my wardrobe. Remember when Brandon Flowers was cool?

    I don't know if he is a particularly good tailor, but he definitely has a knack of tapping into the zeitgeist. And he has a very strong POV for not just a collection, but an entire aesthetic. I always thought that it was funny that people would argue that Dior Homme was comfortable, because it was specifically meant to not be comfortable, but be clothes that forced the wearer into good posture, like a military uniform.

    As for the comment about jeans, I think that you are experiencing a very common fashion myopia. The Dior Homme jeans were plenty skinny, especially for their time, and they were meant to be worn with a stacked hem (Hedi apparently still wears his jeans this way, if it matters to you). I'm not saying that you are wrong to like the SLP jeans, just to take a step outside of the moment and see that how you feel about things now is likely as transient as what you felt before.
     


  13. leclutchjames

    leclutchjames Senior member

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    Well the better quality jeans are cheaper than SLP lol so of course you can afford them but good points
     


  14. JSAN

    JSAN Senior member

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    When the initial Dior denim came out, it was based on the APC reinterpretation of the Levi's 501 cut. Hedi made it end in a 19cm hem and 36+ inches in length. The runway models back then didn't size down or anything, the intended look was the stacking and devil may care attitude carelessness of how the jeans were worn. The current edition has 17.5cm denim which was also designed by Hedi in his later years as well as the KVA designed 15.5cm which doesn't go well with his version of the DH aesthetic of clean lines.

    This is in contrast with the jeans SLP are putting out today, of which most have stretch. They feel tighter in the thighs, lower rises in front and back. I had a pair of 13AW black denim which felt a lot smoother and more like fabric then denim, as opposed to the 19 cm I have now which are rougher and more like the Momotaro's I once had.
     


  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I though so too, but apparently not. Someone told me that the raws are $290? This is where a lot of the better repro brands stand, and they can go up from there. R by 45RPM jeans start at $400 and end at $925 (well, they can go up, but those are the standard denims).

    The point is, buy what you like, what suits you at the time, and at a price with which you are comfortable (btw, this has less to do with affluence after a certain cut off point). Don't bother trying to justify it, one way or the other.
     


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