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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by AriGold, Oct 4, 2012.

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  1. JodyHighroller

    JodyHighroller Member

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    I think Dior Homme "looked to the future" because Hedi (at the time) liked minimalistic electronic music and the Berlin scene. Something intangible with an industrial, future outlook and technological feel to it. Consequently his pieces looked futuristic, straight-forward, minimal.

    Now at SLP he is into rock music which is old music by now old, iconic musicians, so his pieces have an "older feel" to it.
    All the chains etc. he incorporates at SLP are ornaments- something non-existant in raw minimal techno/dior homme.

    Kanye's point in his last two, recent interviews (BBC & Jimmy Kimmel) was that fashion and especially Hedi are referencing "old" culture and ignoring hip-hop/black culture.

    "So when I see Hedi Slimane, and it's all like, 'Okay this is my take on the world.' Yeah, he got some nice $5,000 jeans in there. It's some nice ones here and there, some good shit here and there. But we culture. Rap the new rock 'n roll. We culture. Rap is the new rock 'n roll. We the rockstars. It's been like that for a minute, Hedi Slimane! It's been like that for a minute. We the real rockstars, and I'm the biggest of all of them. I'm the number one rockstar on the planet."​

    Of course a classic Kanye rant but it is true rock is old and that is why SLP has "an older feel to it".
    I like the leather bracelets, belts and jackets but it is undeniable that it's looking into the past in contrast to to e.g. Rick Owens or Dior Homme(btw Raf is doing a great job there, balancing hertitage and personal style).​
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2013
  2. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    my guess is the major fashion houses couldn't care less about preserving brand heritage if the new direction is bringing in serious profit. there are some conservative houses like zegna that you could probably point to as exceptions, but neither sl nor dior is anywhere close to that category. and I don't see any signs that he was only supposed to move the brand forward incrementally. from the start he was given "total creative responsibility for the brand image and all its collections," which was basically YSL saying "go ahead, change whatever you want" with the understanding that it better bring in cash. the name change itself was obviously more about starting over with the branding than about returning the brand to what it was at its founding when it was saint laurent rive gauche.

    if hedi wanted to do old man rock n roll clothes he should've gone to john varvatos :stirpot:
     
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  3. JodyHighroller

    JodyHighroller Member

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    It's arguable but I would consider most big fashion houses conservative with incremental "change" like LV, gucci, hermes, Zegna, versace, chanel, mmm because they stick to signature silouettes, themes and patterns. Of course there might be ups and downs but customers buy these rather for the brand image and less for the current designer's influence.

    On the other hand, yes, you are right the allmighty dollar rules and some fashion houses just flip flop for hype profit and let a designer completly remodel their aestehetic like Givenchy.
    YSL did not really have a long tradition in fashion for men, so that might be a reason for going with Hedi and giving him "total creative responsability".
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2013
  4. ExAngel

    ExAngel Senior member

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    I'm currently reading a book called The Luxury Alchemist that goes in depth into why certain fashion houses like hermes and chanel work and how they have managed to maintain their brand and reputation all these years, while still turning a profit. Brands like these will always be around. I can't say the same will happen to SL after the revamping. An example is Givenchy, having had many ups and downs for as long as I remember, at one point they were so desperate for sales that the brand was being sold next to Sean Jean at bloomingdales They finally found their market and turned the house around, thanks to the 'New Rock N Roll', but like all brands that cater to hype, the brand has now become a victim of it's own hype and no one is really interested anymore. I think SL will soon find itself in that same position. Everyone wants to be part of something new and fresh and while SL's revamping was refreshing and turned heads, now that all the style editors and critics are applauding hedi and are becoming comfortable with where the brand is, it'll no doubt soon find itself boring and repetitive, but without the luxe branding that it originally held and the massive loyal fanbase that YSL originally had. Funny enough, I found myself at Dior the other day and found myself wanting quite a few pieces and it was nice to see that rather than compete with SL, they've become more exclusive and have eliminated itself from going on sale and taking collections out of stores, thus maintaining its brand reputation.
     
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  5. JodyHighroller

    JodyHighroller Member

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    ^^ Thanks for mentioning the book- just looked it up and will order it. If you know more literature going into this direction, I'd appreciate a PM ;)
    I agree on a lot of what you wrote. Also I think Dior is more timeless luxery. But maybe that's because I enjoy simple, modern, classical things with high quality over opulence, ornament and in SLP's case "rock and roll".
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2013
  6. Illithid Dude

    Illithid Dude Senior member

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    I've heard Dior Homme called many things, but minimal? Would you consider the Napoleon jacket minimal, with the epaulets, the cuffs, and the zippers? Really, almost everything from Dior Homme is incredibly ornate, save some certain items from before AW2003.
     
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  7. ImaPro

    ImaPro Senior member

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    KVA dh is very minimalist, even heidi dh was minimalist apart from the 'runway/flagship' pieces.
     
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  8. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    DH is extremely minimalist now. That's basically KVA's touch to Hedi's super-slim rock aesthetic there.

    This was a fascinating discussion, btw!
     
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  9. ImaPro

    ImaPro Senior member

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    Agreed on the second part lol
     
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  10. JodyHighroller

    JodyHighroller Member

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    True, KVA truely brought radical minimalism to Dior and Raf continues very nicely (after minimalism practice at Jil Sander).
    But I also think that earlier Hedi's slim, modern silouette at DH or just the monochrome pallet already were pretty simple in contrast to the 90ies with handsome, muscular models in flashy Versace or D&G.
    Hedi's black and white photography been minimal. Especially his first half at DH was more Berlin cypertechno, androgynous. After he got on the rock train.
    Just my two cents...
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
  11. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    Sorry, I should've been clear that I was talking about menswear specifically. Women's is different. For one thing there's an actual design heritage to draw on, unlike men's in many cases, as you suggested, so the houses take preserving some of those codes more seriously.
     
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  12. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think country is more popular than both rock and hip-hop (in the US). Maybe Hedi should do a cowboy collection next.
     
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  13. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    The issue is not with rock. The issue is that Hedi is so infatuated with his source material that he's seemingly unable or unwilling to distance himself from it and to move beyond it to offer a fresh perspective, which leaves us with pastiche collections where thrift stores pieces are given the Haute couture treatment as if this ultimate overindulgence should somehow make up for a flagrant lack of substance.

    Not that I necessarily disagree with your analysis overall...





    Well Hermes and LV (and Gucci to a lesser degree) are luxury goods houses first and foremost so it's a bit different since there's no fashion heritage to uphold per se. The fashion lines are mostly props for the brands' bread and butter. They need to echo the houses' qualities/values and provide the customer with an overarching lifestyle narrative, which seriously minimize the designers' influence.
     
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  14. steveoffice

    steveoffice Senior member

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    hedi IS a genius

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
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  15. dwyhajlo

    dwyhajlo Senior member

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    Tom Ford already did it.
     
  16. Illithid Dude

    Illithid Dude Senior member

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  17. Dynamics

    Dynamics Senior member

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    Long shot, but does anyone know a place that still has the 15.5 destroyed denim ($675) in sizes? I'm looking for a 33 or 34.
     
  18. DarkSpiral

    DarkSpiral Senior member

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    So I ended up getting a pair of Saint Laurent Paris 15.5cm denim as a gift. I went with size 30, which is my regular size and mainly because the measurements seemed really similar to the Naked & Famous Super Skinny Guy stretch denim, which are by far my slimmest jeans. I was definitely wrong. While the waist and the thighs have a decent amount of room, it's the knees where they're super tight and a bit around the calves. I actually cannot bend my knees all the way back in them and even walking up the stairs you could feel that there wasn't as much give in them as far as bending knees. Is this normal given the cut? Or should they have a bit moreroom around the knees. They're definitely a fair amount slimmer than the Dior Homme 17.5 cm cut as well.

    [​IMG]

    Naked and Famous Super Skinny Guys (Mind the white socks!!)

    [​IMG]

    Dior Homme 17.5cm Stretch Denim

    [​IMG]

    With all of this being said, the Super Skinny Guys and the 17.5s feel almost like pajamas afterwards compared to the 15.5 cms. Is this how they're supposed to fit in the sense of being THAT tight? The waist on the 31 cm seems like it would be too big/loose on me when looking in the measurements and the legs don't seem like they would be more than .5cm bigger. How much will these even stretch?
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2013
  19. TheObserver

    TheObserver Senior member

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    That's how it's supposed to fit, similar to "cigarette leg" Acne Ace denim. They will stretch and get softer overtime but not too much.

    N&F skinny guy and Dior 17.5 cm are skinny on the thigh but have straight leg from the knee down. Two very different styles.
     
  20. DarkSpiral

    DarkSpiral Senior member

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    Fair play mate! Yeah, I'm only making those comparisons because those are the slimmest jeans I have otherwise. Will they stretch a bit to the point where walking up the stairs will feel normal at least do you think??
     

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