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dacarden

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Is tailoring possible with the collar? I’ve never thought to ask a tailor about that! I figured it would throw off the rest of the shirt or something.
Personally I wouldn't touch the collar. I would maybe just rock the low button look on those shirts. I have some shirts like that FW13 dead rat silk that I just wear the buttons a little lower and rock a scarf or necklaces. You could also try exercises to thicken the neck area such as shrugs with weights.
 

dacarden

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Does the season matter for those years?
Yes, I noticed that the FW15 size was slightly bigger than the SS15. Hope this helps.

Just want to throw it out there to anyone. Looking to buy Leopard and/or Python Santiags in 43. DM me. I am also selling a few Hedi-era items as well on Depop/Jawnflip/Ebay if anyone is interested.
 

darkknight

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does the fw13 oiled calf L17 have shorter sleeves? i’m 6’0 wearing a size 52 and the sleeves end like 1.5 inches above my wrist when i straighten my arms. i was thinking maybe it’s been altered but the sleeve zippers are the same length as other L17s. i’m thinking you would need to shorten the zipper to shorten the sleeves? from some fw13 runway/campaign pics it looks a little cropped but just wanna be sure
 

SpencerA

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does the fw13 oiled calf L17 have shorter sleeves? i’m 6’0 wearing a size 52 and the sleeves end like 1.5 inches above my wrist when i straighten my arms. i was thinking maybe it’s been altered but the sleeve zippers are the same length as other L17s. i’m thinking you would need to shorten the zipper to shorten the sleeves? from some fw13 runway/campaign pics it looks a little cropped but just wanna be sure
You can shorten sleeves by taking the arm off at the armhole seam and moving it up which wouldn't affect the wrist zipper. Worth bearing in mind the shoulder and chest measurements can make the arm longer or shorter, even if it measures the same length from seam to Seam - obviously wider shoulders would make the arm hang lower etc if that makes sense. I think generally fw13 stuff tends to be more cropped than later Iterations from what I've read.
 

darkknight

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You can shorten sleeves by taking the arm off at the armhole seam and moving it up which wouldn't affect the wrist zipper. Worth bearing in mind the shoulder and chest measurements can make the arm longer or shorter, even if it measures the same length from seam to Seam - obviously wider shoulders would make the arm hang lower etc if that makes sense. I think generally fw13 stuff tends to be more cropped than later Iterations from what I've read.
I guess with the L17 taking it in at the armhole would be a bit more tricky due to the armpit vents design. judging from the stitching on the lining and leather it doesn’t really look like it was altered but who knows. some pics i see online the sleeves look long some short. hopefully it’s not a QC issue.
 

SirGrotius

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Anyone have experience with SL suede jackets? There are some supremely nice ones from this F/W collection, particularly with the shearling. Couple questions - these types of jackets are meant to go how cold would you say, and is the fit still slim, or are they starting to get bulky? Any other thoughts would be appreciated, since even though returnable, I don't like the idea of dropping so much sight unseen. ;)

1601554362173.png
 

zrn

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Anyone have experience with SL suede jackets? There are some supremely nice ones from this F/W collection, particularly with the shearling. Couple questions - these types of jackets are meant to go how cold would you say, and is the fit still slim, or are they starting to get bulky? Any other thoughts would be appreciated, since even though returnable, I don't like the idea of dropping so much sight unseen. ;)

View attachment 1468973
I have the black suede shearling one. Definitely warm but I dont think suede is as good as a synthetic jacket or a normal leather shearling jacket at keeping wind out. I'm guessing I would feel comfortable wearing it a good number of days during NYC, Boston. or Chicago Winter assuming no rain and not super windy. Fit is definitely slim cut. If in between sizes would recommend at least choosing the bigger size and maybe even going one up (only problem may be the lower back being wide if up 1.5 sizes). I chose my bigger size and still can only wear a thin sweater underneath.
 

GG Allin

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I have the black suede shearling one. Definitely warm but I dont think suede is as good as a synthetic jacket or a normal leather shearling jacket at keeping wind out. I'm guessing I would feel comfortable wearing it a good number of days during NYC, Boston. or Chicago Winter assuming no rain and not super windy. Fit is definitely slim cut. If in between sizes would recommend at least choosing the bigger size and maybe even going one up (only problem may be the lower back being wide if up 1.5 sizes). I chose my bigger size and still can only wear a thin sweater underneath.
So, is their a difference between "suede shearling" and "shearling"? I have no experience with either, and kinda want to pick up one of the classic Hedi shearling coats, which pop up on grailed regularly. I live in a state with dire winters, and would need something warm, as well as being able to hold up in snow. I assume snow isn't great for suede, but is regular shearling good for it?
 

SirGrotius

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Those leather shearling jackets (i.e., usually a black leather, non-porous unlike suede) are probably great for winter, but I have not tried it on. To ZRN's point, suede is probably not the best if windy and/or snowing, which I did not think about.
 

ASAPRice

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If I had to guess, I'd say suede is actually better for windy days, because leather seems to cool down much faster than suede does. Leather is definitely better if it's raining or snowing though.

I've got a vintage shearling denim jacket that I've worn while it's snowing out and it definitely keeps me warm enough with a simple longsleeve on beneath it.
 

zrn

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So, is their a difference between "suede shearling" and "shearling"? I have no experience with either, and kinda want to pick up one of the classic Hedi shearling coats, which pop up on grailed regularly. I live in a state with dire winters, and would need something warm, as well as being able to hold up in snow. I assume snow isn't great for suede, but is regular shearling good for it?
Theres a couple aspects to think about. There are fully shearling jackets and shearling lined jackets.

The fully shearling jackets are sheep/lamb suede outside coat part of the shearling inside. I'm fairly sure its the same full grain hide but not 100% certain. Would probably need to consult a leather pro about that for specifics. The outside can be treated to look more finished than typical suede.

The lined jackets are shearling on the inside with some other material on the outside. Within the lined jackets you have suede and finished(normal) leather exteriors of various hide types. This season there were a couple ones with calf suede on the outside and I think at least 1 with lamb leather on the outside. In all honesty they are probably all quite warm and will do well in cold temperatures. However, without getting into cell bio stuff, suede is a very permeable material just due to it being an inverted hide. Experiences will vary because the construction matters a ton, but suede is less likely to be impervious to the conditions than a finished leather, especially when it comes to rain and to a lesser degree snow (just because you can brush it off before it becomes wet).

tldr; Regular finished leather outside shearling is as good for wetness(snow, rain) as any regular finished leather + its much warmer because its shearling. Suede exterior is as good/bad for wetness as any other suede but its also much warmer because its shearling. I believe finished leather + shearling is better than suede + shearling for wind because of the higher permeability of suede but ASAPRice had a different experience so it may depend on multiple things.
 
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ViceofGucci

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I tried all three of the SLP shearlings and they still fit slim. The shearlings are great for winter but wouldn't wear them during heavy rain or snow since it can darken the color of it. I have an l01 from 2013 if you want sleeve measurements for it but its a 52. My sid vicious biker from 2014 has shorter sleeves than it though
 

DJR

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Hearing some interesting rumblings through my network; apparently Vaccarello is enlisting Helmut Lang (very quietly) to assist with men’s. YSL very motivated to outdo Slimane at Celine.
 

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