- Jan 23, 2011
- Reaction score
Looks great CentrallyLocate!
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Gotcha. These look like they have a pretty round last. I'm still waiting on my Cole's that I pre-ordered, they are supposed to ship by the end of the month.Identical fit to Wyatts for me. Then again I’m the same size in leather Wyatts and suede Lukas, so perhaps I’m less sensitive to slight changes in last dimensions than some people who comment more specifically on whether shoes run large or small.
Really revitalized your boots and I'm so jealous of your ss13 classique jodhpur boots. So rare, and if I ever see a pair in my size I think I would cop immediately. I really love the idea of using your items and taking care of it through maintenance instead of just keeping them in a box.Hey guys,
This is a quick write-up I promised you all and I wanted to show you how you can get your thrashed cigarette-burned Hedi-era boots looking pretty damn good again.
Some may ask themselves, why the fuck would I want to make my Thursday night punk show boots look new again? Isn’t having clean looking boots the antithesis of the Hediboy aesthetic?
Well, I am glad you asked. This tutorial will help you extend the life of your favorite boots and ensure no casualties occur the next time you are stumbling through the nightclub exit on slumped over on your buddy’s shoulder.
Here are some of the supplies you will need (pictured):
-100% Horsehair Brush
-Cheap small paintbrush
-Old T-shirts or soft cloths
-Leather Cream (look for natural oils)
-Appropriate color Leather Dye (I prefer Angelus products)
-Leather/Suede Glue (If you put any surface tears into your leather boots)
-Something to cover your work area with (Putting dirty boots on a dinner table is a great way to get smacked.)
Step 1: Brush the upper of your boots in a sweeping motion with the Horsehair brush. Use the toothbrush to get into the area between the upper and the sole.
Step 2: If your boots have residue/mud/vomit/blood give it a good cleaning with learher cleaner and on the cloths. Make sure to hit the bottom of the boot as well, but use a different cloth.
Step 3: If you have any surface tears, etc. Take some of the leather/suede glue and use a little on a piece of scrap paper and dab your toothpick in it. Use a small amount of the glue to get underneath any of the tears, etc. and tack the leather down. (The subject pair of boots had a few small surface tears in the toe region as pictured). You don’t need a lot of glue. You don’t want that shit all over the leather so be accurate and conservative with glue placement.
Step 4: If your soles or leather upper have any discoloration, let’s take care of that. For best results, you will have to dye the leather. Use the leather preparer/deglazer on a cloth and use sparingly only on portions of the shoe that have bare leather showing. In my case it was the sole and area where the sole is attached to the upper. Once the area has been wiped with the leather preparer/deglazer. Use your little paint brush and apply the dye sparingly. Don’t soak the leather. Use light coats. By all means, do not knock the bottle over or on yourself. You will be hating life.
Step 5: Once everything is dry. Start applying the leather cream. Personally, I like to use my hand to apply it because this method will warm up the oils in the cream and help it soak into the leather. Massage the cream into the scuffed/dyed/repaired areas. Use it pretty much everywhere. Yes, even the soles. This will prolong the life of exposed leather soles if you don’t vibram them. Once your leather boots are moisturized, let them sit for a couple hours.
Step 6: Yep, these boots are starting to show life again at this point. This is the part where the work pays off. Time to shine these puppies up! First use a cloth and rub the shine in the container in a circular motion. Next, apply the shine in a swirling motion on the upper of the boot and sides of the soles/heels. Let the shine sit for a second and then begin to hit the shine with your horsehair brush in an aggressive sweeping back-and-forth motion. After this step, get a long piece of an old t-shirt or a shoe shine cloth and put your shoes between your legs (or have a friend put on the boots to stabilize them) and start going to town shining them. Yep, the same way that they used to do it in the old cartoons. Apply shine and repeat this step as needed to get best results. Personally, I shine the toe boxes and heels to get best looking results.
Feel free to message me with any questions. Especially for more serious cases. Hope this helps.
If I had to guess it would be around 2014, and it is called Seville 30 with its rare soft pointy shape on a 30 mm heel with welt. I didn't know they also made them whole cut like the ss13 Classique 25. So rare to have whole cut Hedi Chelsea boots. Wholecut is both technically more difficult and looks most elegant because they're forced to use one single piece of leather when constructing the boot. Usually they will use the highest quality leather as well, and it is more costly to make. I almost feel like they're showing off that they're a luxurious product.
Only correction I would make is that ss14 was also cemented. Personally, I'm a fan of cemented construction over Blake. Blake means they will make holes through the boots' outsole straight to the insole, which allows water to seep from outside of the shoe into the insole. People claim that cemented shoes can't be resoled, but they don't know what they're talking about. There is negligible difference between the process of resoling cemented shoes, Blake-stitched shoes, or Goodyear-welted shoes. To turn a cement shoe into a Blake, all you do is go to a cobbler to add stitches from the bottom through the insole. People get confused because of how many people regurgitate that cemented shoes cannot be resoled over and over again. The only gripe I have with the fw13 Wyatts is how there are even faux-stitches on the bottom of the sole that mimics Blake-stitching at all. First of all, from the top, it is trying to look like a Goodyear-welted boot with faux-stitches on the welt which suggests that the sole is fasted to the upper by connecting it to the welt surrounding the leather upper. If they decided to have faux-stitching on the bottom, they should have had them actually line up with the faux-stitching on the welt. If that was too hard to do, then they should have just kept the sole plain and mimic faux closed channel stitching like ss13-ss14 Blake/London 20 models. However, I'm sure that they decided to show some faux Blake-stitching on the sole just to appeal to those who view Blake-stitching as a sign of "quality". They probably thought it would be unrealistic to expect people to believe that the Wyatt is Goodyear-stitched since it is so sleek. Most consumers probably don't even recognize how closed channel stitching is the most superior and elegant choice since the stitches are hidden underneath the leather. I wonder if Hedi decided to go for closed channel stitching for a lot of Celine footwear as a way of positioning it as more elegant than Saint Laurent.FW13- cemented heel, exposed zip, slimmest shaft, one less piece of leather
SS14-FW15- blake stitched, non-exposed zip, wide shafts
SS16- blake, non exposed, slim shaft, loose harness
FW16- blake, non exposed, slim shaft, slightly lower quality leather (not sure on that 100%)
These were a great pair of boots, I actually owned these previously and they were my go-to boots for work. I actually bought that pair to restore and give everyone here a write-up! I haven't been as active on here as I once was, but I did recently save a pair of FW13 leather wyatts. I had a partial resole done by a tailor and had them actually stitch the upper to the sole to make sure that it would never delaminate/separate again. The uppers were dry and needed some good conditioning. Now they look like BRAND NEW and I was able to add vibram soles to them to ensure longevity. I did the same stitching to my FW13 cowboy ochre wyatts and they're holding up well too.Really revitalized your boots and I'm so jealous of your ss13 classique jodhpur boots. So rare, and if I ever see a pair in my size I think I would cop immediately. I really love the idea of using your items and taking care of it through maintenance instead of just keeping them in a box.
There is a pretty active buy/sell/trade on Facebook.In other news. My outspoken opposition to the 9% grailed fee increase got me banned from using their site. Does anyone know of any similar platforms that are up and coming for selling/buying SLP/Celine mens wear? I have signed up for Jawnflip. It seems like an okay platform and is reminiscent of the early grailed days, which I love. It just seems like it has not picked up the volume on users that Grailed has. I am pretty active on Instagram since making one earlier this year and have established some connections with sellers and buyers, which has been helpful. I was thinking of just making a separate IG page and post listings there for all my Hedi stuff.
Vestiaire Collective is really good when it comes to prices, although the selection on Grailed is way better.I've only started recently looking into the second hand market for clothes. Recently picked up a couple pairs of bnwt D17's from a seller, which is my favorite cut.
I'm now looking hard at leather jackets. This may sound naive, but I'm kinda shocked by the number of leathers from Hedi's era at SLP that are still new with tags all these years later, as well as some that look practically new without tags. I'd definitely be interested in other platforms, since ebay just doesn't have the selection that grailed does. Am checking out jawnflip and depot right now.