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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by AriGold, Oct 4, 2012.

  1. kieran84

    kieran84 Senior member

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    Sep 14, 2014
    The presence of extra design like straps doesn't necessarily make something more worth it than a more minimal classic design. That's the kind of thinking that's resulted in everything having labels and badges all over it. While I like the cropped jodhpur, the Hedi 30 jodhpur looks like a golf club on most people because of how high the jeans hit the strap. I don't get the hype and far prefer the Chelsea.

  2. thorns

    thorns Senior member

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    May 2, 2015
    When you start digging deeper into the nuances of what Saint Laurent and Hedi means, it starts getting more interesting. Although it is tempting to think of these items as just clothes/just shoes, it is ultimately more than that. Hedi carefully creates this universe, and everything is done for a reason (rather than haphazardly throwing together a collection composed of the latest trends). In his mind, he has an idea of how he would want people to dress like in his universe, and they the designs are often quite minimal with no branding. This goes against the philosophy of what a lot of people believe when they shop for designer clothes. "If there are no labels, how will they even know that this is an expensive item etc." This is one of the reasons why people dislike the more plain looking designs and opt for something that is more easily identifiable as Saint Laurent. No hate to those who go this route. Hedi also believes in items that are more bling and showy, but I feel like those are more relegated for special occasions/stage wear/those who are punk enough to wear whatever they want despite social norms (Hedi himself doesn't necessarily fit in this last category but his muses do).

    Leather quality is something that is quite disappointing for its price, but I would argue that the last is/was amazingly done (got to hunt for original ones that aren't modified as much for the mass market). I agree that it would be better for the style to have been goodyear-welted so it is more authentic, rather than using faux welt/stitches in the sole. Blake construction definitely has its place, especially for sleek designs that have no welt, and features a thin sole. Really for the price, you're mainly paying for the fact that is from Saint Laurent, its last, and that its designed by Hedi. If you don't care for Hedi or the last, I can see how it can feel outrageous.

    I would argue that currently there isn't another shoemaker that makes something like what Hedi designed. When you start looking at his different models, you start noticing commonalities. All his footwear have quite a sleek and flat toe box to complement his slim silhouettes, regardless if it is a chunky army lace up boot or oxfords. A lot of classic shoemakers create designs that are more tailored for people who are wearing trousers/in a work environment. Whereas in Hedi's universe, he prefers shoes to be more lived-in and complement skinny jeans. You will have great difficulty in replicating what he envisioned with classic menswear brands. Your next best bet is with brands that have been heavily inspired by Hedi.

    I think you raise a good point that moving forward, people might need to move towards having a cordwainer create a replica of Hedi's designs with higher quality material and construction. However, without the original last handy, it will take some trial and error before you will come close.

  3. edgar-pr

    edgar-pr Active Member

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    Oct 24, 2011
    You say 'would not age well' as if it were absolute fact. I've seen plenty of 2nd hand Wyatt 30's for sale, of various different ages, that still look excellent despite clearly being well worn (you can often tell the amount of wear from the soles).

    I've looked through the various Chelsea boot and shoe maker threads on styleforum over the years. With out question, you'd be able to get better quality Chelsea boots for the same price. However I have yet to find high quality Chelsea boots, bespoke or otherwise, with a shape or aesthetic that comes close to that of Wyatts. I've not found anything which has even had a similar combination of sleek tapered toe + simple, narrow elastic gusset + narrow opening + hidden pull tabs + interesting suede colours. The similarly priced alternatives are nothing short of ugly in my opinion.

  4. Isolar

    Isolar Senior member

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    Jan 26, 2016
    While I agree with everything you said, I have to point out that being on this forum, discussing the minutiae of leg openings and boot profiles, is the antithesis to the world Hedi has in mind lol.

  5. JustDoingMyThing

    JustDoingMyThing Member

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    Apr 22, 2017
    But if would live in universe created by Hedi we wouldn't have to even think about those things since all clothes and shoes would be amazing :worship2:

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