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Saint Crispin shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by rsp1, Nov 8, 2004.

  1. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I was not sure of the process used to make the trees, but your description makes sense. The more I study the trees, the more clearly I see the differences between the two. Its interesting how a subtle shift here and there can alter the overall look of the shoe, even though to the casual observer they would appear to match.

    Because of the cutaway in the tree just in back of the vamp (essentially the shoe's opening), I am able to see the front upper half of the shoe in profile and see just what it was that made the right shoe seem shapelier, and the left more linear and static. Very interesting indeed. I'm still bummed out, but at least I am edified in being able to articulate what it was I thought I was seeing.
     
  2. rsp1

    rsp1 Senior member

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    Does anyone know of a NYC source for these shoes?
     
  3. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    According to their website, there isn't one.
     
  4. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I went back and re-read the e-mail that I got from Herr Rollig. Here's what he said about the lastmaking process for the bespoke shoes:
    What this means about the liklihood of a bespoke shoe having Last 1746 written on the box, I can't say.
     
  5. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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  6. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This seems a bit harsh, especially given your earlier comment:
    When you first tried the shoes on, you "got the impression that the 2 shoes appeared slightly different." Slightly different. The goal of bespoke shoemaking is to accomodate the idiosyncrasies of a person's individual feet without appearing to do so. They're supposed to look like regular shoes on casual observation. It seems to me that they accomplished this with your shoes, if in fact they're bespoke. If there are significant irregularities in a person's feet, you'll always be able to notice slight differences between the left shoe and the right shoe when you examine them closely. The key is how they look on your feet. And how do you like the shoes? Can you wear them? Will you wear them?
     
  7. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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  8. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    My Saint Crispins:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Compared to Santoni
    [​IMG]

    Hollowed out shoe trees, included in the sales price
    [​IMG]
     
  9. UR003

    UR003 Active Member

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    Congratulations. I like the colour. However, I thought they would really be seamless, and I notice a seam on the inside of the heel. Have you tried round laces instead of the flat ones included?
     
  10. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    Congratulations. I like the colour. However, I thought they would really be seamless, and I notice a seam on the inside of the heel. Have you tried round laces instead of the flat ones included?
    Not yet, but i'm definitely getting round laces. I don't like the flat ones.
     
  11. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    However, I thought they would really be seamless, and I notice a seam on the inside of the heel.
    Any whole cut shoe will have one seam, which is needed to transfer a flat sheet of leather into a three dimensional shoe.

    Most shoes have that seam at the back of the heel; in that particular case, St Crispin has pulled it further to the inside. (Just as with JL's 'Jermyn II', where the seam is inside centre.)

    If a whole cut has two seams, then there are two pieces of leather involved and it's no longer a whole cut.
     
  12. UR003

    UR003 Active Member

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    Okay, I get it. But isn't it a tad pretentious to call a shoe seamless if it in fact does have one seam?
     
  13. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There are indeed seamless wholecuts that require a very special cutting of the leather,are there not?
     
  14. UR003

    UR003 Active Member

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    There are indeed seamless wholecuts that require a very special cutting of the leather,are there not?
    That's what I thought too. I believed there were two breeds of wholecuts, the ones with a seam, and the truly seamless ones, where the leather was "sculpted" into shape.
     
  15. TKDKid

    TKDKid Senior member

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  16. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those Ugolini shoes have me flabbergasted. I do not know and I don't understand, how they are constructed. They appear to be "seamless".

    Think of a last, think of a great pieces of flat leather laid over. Yes, you can pull the leather over vamp and sides, but on the heel you have an excessive amount, I do not understand how you can pull that under without folds or pleats. I could understand cutting the leather not right through all the way up and adding a dart to ½ or ¾ height to remove the excess. Maybe one of our resident shoemakers, Messrs Melkerson and Myhre, might want to comment.

    But we are talking about "whole cuts", I have never heard them called "seamless". (Who said that whole cut and seamless are exchangeable terms?) Every whole cut I have ever seen has a seam somewhere; usually on the heal, but "˜Jermyn II' is wrapped around the seam. Occasionally you find inferior quality whole cuts like Bavarian "˜Haferl-Schuhe' where an additional seam has been added to save on the leather (turning a whole cut into a three quarter cut).
     
  17. kronik

    kronik Senior member

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    Oh my God.

    That Ugolini is freaking gorgeous.
     
  18. Duveen

    Duveen Senior member

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    To ease bengal's suffering - I think that someone has in the past called 'BS' on those Ugolini photos - you'll note that there is at least one small part of the side after the heel that is never depicted in the photos. That said, in looking @ them again, they certainly SEEM seamless.

    Hmmm...now my mind is becoming a pretzel.

    EDITED TO ADD: Now I remember a bit more - there may also have been an assertion that the photos depict two different shoes. I did a quick search and can't find the thread I am thinking of (blast it all!).

    Also -- the shoes are beautiful. I agree with those above and below.
     
  19. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    The Crispins are lovely.
     
  20. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    To ease bengal's suffering - I think that someone has in the past called 'BS' on those Ugolini photos - you'll note that there is at least one small part of the side after the heel that is never depicted in the photos. That said, in looking @ them again, they certainly SEEM seamless.

    Hmmm...now my mind is becoming a pretzel.

    EDITED TO ADD: Now I remember a bit more - there may also have been an assertion that the photos depict two different shoes. I did a quick search and can't find the thread I am thinking of (blast it all!).

    Also -- the shoes are beautiful. I agree with those above and below.

    That is very esoteric trickery. Imagine all those Japanese shoe-fans consulting their late 19th century shoe texts bought off eBay for extra-ordinary prices due to a Japanese bidding war.
     

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