Saint Crispin shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by rsp1, Nov 8, 2004.

  1. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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  2. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    JL - These would be close to Dick Grasso's size, but I could never see him ordering such shoes.
     
  3. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Does he have crooked feet? Update: after a bit of amateur sleuthing (gumshoe-ing... [​IMG]), I began to consider the trees themselves. Since they are handcarved, could they not have some variations of their own? And since they are so snug in the shoes, and having been inside the shoes for an indeterminate amount of time, could they have temporarily changed the shape of them? Of course, this would seem to run counter to the purpose of a custom made tree, i.e. to maintain the shape of the shoes exactly as intended? The aforementioned is perhaps all moot, because when I fold the trees into themselves so that the heel folds over onto the top of the vamp, or tongue (remember, they're hinged), the heel of the left tree is cocked fully 1/2" off center, while the right tree's heel folds over neatly across the middle of the tongue (now is when I really need that camera). So either a) someone f'ed up the left shoe tree, which when inserted into the shoe causes it to become misshapen, or b) these shoes are in fact bespoke, and were made for someone who's got a pretty out of whack left foot. As I sight a line from the heel of the shoe across the vamp to the toe, the right shoe follows pretty much in a straight line, and the left--surprise, looks to be about 1/2" off. Sounds like its time for an email to Ian. Damn, I really like these shoes, but it would always bother me if they weren't quite right. At least I wasn't imagining it. Was my novella all for naught?
     
  4. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those tiny, subtle plugs are in fact little beechwood pegs, hence the term "pegged." They help to attach the outsole to the insole of the shoe, although I don't know the technical reason why they would be used rather than regular stitching.
    I have no idea. However, if Saint Crispin's modifies stock lasts to make their bespoke shoes rather than making the lasts de novo, then it would be plausible. I have no idea whether this is their process or not, though. The lack of marking inside the shoes is not that unusual. Vass RTW shoes, for example, have no markings at all inside the shoe except for the name of the man who lasted the shoes on the right shoe.
     
  5. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If the Vass book doesn't lie to me, trees are made using a lathe duplicator to copy the lasts that the shoes were made on. The trees would, of course, be finished by hand, but I would expect them to be pretty accurate copies of the lasts. Unless, of course, somebody royally screwed them up.
     
  6. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I was not sure of the process used to make the trees, but your description makes sense. The more I study the trees, the more clearly I see the differences between the two. Its interesting how a subtle shift here and there can alter the overall look of the shoe, even though to the casual observer they would appear to match.

    Because of the cutaway in the tree just in back of the vamp (essentially the shoe's opening), I am able to see the front upper half of the shoe in profile and see just what it was that made the right shoe seem shapelier, and the left more linear and static. Very interesting indeed. I'm still bummed out, but at least I am edified in being able to articulate what it was I thought I was seeing.
     
  7. rsp1

    rsp1 Senior member

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    Does anyone know of a NYC source for these shoes?
     
  8. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    According to their website, there isn't one.
     
  9. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I went back and re-read the e-mail that I got from Herr Rollig. Here's what he said about the lastmaking process for the bespoke shoes:
    What this means about the liklihood of a bespoke shoe having Last 1746 written on the box, I can't say.
     
  10. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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  11. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This seems a bit harsh, especially given your earlier comment:
    When you first tried the shoes on, you "got the impression that the 2 shoes appeared slightly different." Slightly different. The goal of bespoke shoemaking is to accomodate the idiosyncrasies of a person's individual feet without appearing to do so. They're supposed to look like regular shoes on casual observation. It seems to me that they accomplished this with your shoes, if in fact they're bespoke. If there are significant irregularities in a person's feet, you'll always be able to notice slight differences between the left shoe and the right shoe when you examine them closely. The key is how they look on your feet. And how do you like the shoes? Can you wear them? Will you wear them?
     
  12. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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  13. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    My Saint Crispins:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Compared to Santoni
    [​IMG]

    Hollowed out shoe trees, included in the sales price
    [​IMG]
     
  14. UR003

    UR003 Active Member

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    Congratulations. I like the colour. However, I thought they would really be seamless, and I notice a seam on the inside of the heel. Have you tried round laces instead of the flat ones included?
     
  15. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    Congratulations. I like the colour. However, I thought they would really be seamless, and I notice a seam on the inside of the heel. Have you tried round laces instead of the flat ones included?
    Not yet, but i'm definitely getting round laces. I don't like the flat ones.
     

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