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Sagely Sartorial Advice from Luciano Barbera

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mmkn, Aug 11, 2012.

  1. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    Inspired by a recent thread, and taking off from another thread, the following could describe most people's sartorial evolution . . .

    Why reinvent the wheel? Build from there instead. Take what you will, and leave the rest . . .


    Q&A with Luciano Barbera

    Q: Are there any style combinations that you object to?

    Yes, wearing jeans for any occasion.


    Q: Please describe your style in three words.

    Sober, classic, but modern.


    Q: What is the biggest mistake one can make when getting dressed?

    To dress for others and not for yourself.


    Q: Do you believe in role models?

    If it has to do with ethics and behaving correctly, yes.


    Q: What are your favourite fabrics?

    A fulled fabric for winter, and linen and wool canvasses in summertime.


    Q: Which city has the best-dressed men?

    Milano, of course.


    Q: Would you say that you are conservative or bold?

    Neither.


    Q: What are the rules, if any, in the way you dress?

    I want to please myself; that’s it.


    Q: Celebrities and style…

    Unfortunately, this is a combination that very often only leads to boorishness.


    Q: One garment/accessory that you can never have enough of?

    Suits in carded flannel and ties.


    Q: Who taught you what you know about style?

    A good tailor, a good shirtmaker, a good shoemaker, and the presumption of believing in myself.


    Q: How do you select your clothing every morning?

    Following my mood, and in relation with what I have to do during the day.


    Q: Do you have any shopping rituals?

    I only look for what I would like to have in that specific moment.


    Q: We will never see you wearing…

    …white socks and sandals!


    Q: The most stylish person you have ever seen…

    There is more than one, so I won’t name them in order not to wrong anybody.


    Q: What is the first thing you notice on a man?

    The shoes they’re wearing.


    Q: What are the most treasured items in your wardrobe?

    My carded flannel suits in their grey and blue nuances.


    Q: Is comfort an enemy of style?

    Not at all. A stylish and elegant man wears what he wears because he seeks comfort.


    Q: Which designer never fails to impress you?

    Ralph Lauren.


    Q: Who would you like to see next in “My style”?

    My daughter Carola Barbera.


    Q: The best word of advice you have ever heard?

    ‘Sprezzatura,’ which literally means detachment or understatement.



    - M
     


  2. theantiquematinee

    theantiquematinee Senior member

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    ^^^^ Amazing insight. Thank you for posting it.
     


  3. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    His positive comments on Ralph Lauren are quite an endorsement.
    To me, Lauren's project over the past forty years has been to mine
    the various Anglo/Ivy styles from the 30s to the 60s and market them
    to the patrician- emulators, myself included. Maybe Barbera is doing the
    same but with an "Italian accent".
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012


  4. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    If Vox were here, he would tell you "Luciano Barbera tells you to suck it".
     


  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Why did FCorb go off the air?
     


  6. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    ^ Actually, he would say, "Nice try, smalltimers. Now f*ck off."

    :)

    - M
     


  7. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Off the air? Not so. In fact, FC/Vox seems to be channeling my remarks.
    His photo of Signor Barbera could well be a Polo ad, except for the
    Maestro's age and the Fiat (500?) windshield:

    http://www.voxsartoria.com/
     


  8. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    ^ Hmmm, he's in monitoring mode . . .


    [​IMG]


    - M
     


  9. joonian

    joonian Senior member

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    What's carded flannel?
     


  10. saint

    saint Senior member

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    Wool is "carded" or combed to separate the fibers. I assume the translation is garbled but is meant to convey a flannel with a lot of texture.
     


  11. joonian

    joonian Senior member

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    In that case, I love that shit too.
     


  12. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Probably more nap than texture. I think of tweed(s) as having texture.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flannel
     


  13. harryx2

    harryx2 Senior member

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    Since we are on the topic of advice, Andrea Perrone, former CEO of Brioni, also has some nice things to say about Italian style.

    Q: How do you define style?

    Style is something you’ve got inside. You can appear elegant and stylish even with a pair of jeans and a T-shirt, because everything comes from your education and how you behave.

    Q: Do you have any rules when it comes to the way you dress? If yes, what are they?

    A morning suit should never be black!

    Color is acceptable for shirt and or ties.

    Black shoes should never be worn with a brown suit.

    It is a must to wear a tie with a suit.
    Every gentleman must own a blue blazer and grey pants (you can play easily with a fancy shirt, with or without ties, for the informal moment; with a shirt with classic ties in any formal occasion… It’s a jolly!).

    Formal shoes should always be worn with socks (I wear socks even with boat shoes).

    A tie’s knot should never be too big or wide.

    For an evening suit, plain blue or charcoal grey with a white shirt (in this case I love to wear colorful ties).

    Always wear a tuxedo when there is a black tie code.

    Q: What are your favorite fabrics?

    For knitwear: silk cashmere. For coat and jacket: cashmere in winter and superlight wool in summer. For tie: shining silk.

    Q: Are there any combinations that you you do not feel comfortable in trying?

    A sleeveless shirt with a jacket.

    Q: If there is one article of clothing that a man needs to pay close attention to, it has to be…

    Let’s summarize saying that the main rule is “never be excessive”: from tip to toe, the whole should be harmonic related to the moment of the day.

    Q: If we could generalize it, which city has the best-dressed men?

    I think nowadays it’s difficult to generalize because you can find “the best” in different places and countries. We live in a world of globetrotters.

    Q: What is the first thing you notice on a man?

    A part of the total look which represents the first impact: accessories. They are the most important things. Above all, shoes (in terms of chromatic choice) and ties (for the sense of taste on choosing them).

    Q: Would you say that you are conservative or bold?

    Let’s say both, in different percentages. I am conservative but I could be bold in some details.

    Q: One garment/accessory that you can never have enough of?

    Ties.

    Q: A man should always look like…

    A man.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2012


  14. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Even the best get it wrong from time to time.
    -Perrone: Socks with boat shoes
    -Barbera: Jeans are never acceptable

    Maybe if you're 70+. Socks with boat shoes.....[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2012


  15. TGOL

    TGOL Active Member

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    Renault 4, I suspect.

    I like the advice of these two wealthy Italian men whose livelihood is based around clothes, but I suspect that, because I am in fact an art student from the 'burbs, I shouldn't take it nearly as seriously as they do.
     


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