Sad-looking collar band question

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mack11211, Jan 16, 2005.

  1. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    Dear Shirt folk:

    A collar band question.

    This often happens with my collars. With the collar buttoned, the section of the band above the button hole droops forward, taking half an inch of the collar band with it on the left side (the left side when wearing the shirt).

    When this little piece droops foward, it becomes harder to make the tie fit snugly and securely.

    It does not seem related to how tightly or loosely the collar size fits my neck.

    This often happens in shirts, but why? How to prevent it? How to position the button(s) or button hole(s), or how to rigidify the band, etc.

    Do tell.
     


  2. bch

    bch Senior member

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    Possibly the tie is not snug against the underside of the collar? You say it has no correllation to collar size, but are you sure your collar is not too small? You could also try a shirt with no tie space.
     


  3. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    One solution is a heavier interlining in the collar band. Another solution is: [​IMG] [​IMG] No tie-space is not really a solution. Unless the tie-knot is very small, the collar leaf will push the tie down far enough for Droopy to show. A third solution, used when only one button is desired, is to move the buttonhole right over to the edge and move the button rearward a corresponding amount. However, when worn sans cravatte, this looks a bit foolish as the button is way off center.
     


  4. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member

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    Which is one of the many reasons I think the whole sans cravatte thing should be done away with.. One of the many... [​IMG]
     


  5. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    I spend 45 minutes taking pictures and working in Photoshop ... and you use it as an opportunity to sell ties? Well, I never. [​IMG] P.S. My cut?
     


  6. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member

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    45 Minutes for 3 mediocre pics??? Well, no wonder you charge what you do for a shirt. [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  7. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    247 posts ... and never yet claimed to be a photographer. [​IMG]
     


  8. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just out of curiosity (and fully realizing that I am angering the web forum gods by participating in the hijack of a thread), why do you attach the buttons to the collar band before you attach the collar band to the body of the shirt?
     


  9. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member

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    Participating? participating?? Mister JCusey, the playful banter between Mr. Kabbaz and myself, was not a hijack. Â It was humor. Â Your post commences the god angering hijack and may their wrath rain down on you, and banish you forever to the MM forum or better yet... GQ. [​IMG] PS: Â Dont think I missed the fact that you had to ask someone something about shoes, and didnt know yourself, time to strip you or your rankjing as SHOE KNOW IT ALL here on SF...Oh yes... Â I see everything...
     


  10. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, it certainly was something. I'll leave it to the membership to decide whether it qualifies as humor.
    Aww, come on. You don't mean that. Who would stalk you around here if I were banished?
    I never claimed to know it all. Besides, how do you know that that post wasn't a troll? [​IMG]
     


  11. MCA

    MCA Well-Known Member

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    Mr. Kabbaz,

    The shape of the collar band you show is very interesting. It has a tall back and then you cut curves with inflexion points towards a lower front. I would imagine it adds sufficient height at the back while maintaining a more comfortable, lower front that suits certain anatomies. Do you use this pattern for business shirts only? Maybe also for casual (ocassional open-collar use) shirts?

    Regards.
     


  12. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    jcusey
    If I can get my answer in here before thunderclaps rain down and light'ning pierces my monitor ... I don't. That's a shi**y old collar which is from a shirt being refurbished ... to which for the photos I actually had to sew buttons which were taken off during the "un-sewing" part. It's commonly referred to as ripping ... but I said that to a young apprentice once and the results were disastrous. So take that, FIHT ... it wasn't just taking the mediocre pix that took 45 minutes. I had to thread a needle as well. At my age .... [​IMG] MCA
    Thanks for noticing. That's one of the strange things which happen when a young engineer turns shirtmaker. Actually, there are a myriad of things about the collar besides the shape of the band which defy the accepted traditions. This is one of the few areas of shirtmaking which I don't really discuss. Suffice it to say that the entire construction is far from mainstream. Though I standardize absolutely nothing across my client base, variations upon this shape are in-use in the majority of my collars, both dress and casual.
     


  13. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    What is the highest level of engineering degree that you hold - associates, bachelors, masters or Ph.D. - and what was your field of engineering? At which university(or universities) did you study?
     


  14. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    uriaheep
    Not that it is any of your business, I am a proud college dropout from S.U.N.Y. at Stony Brook's undergraduate engineering program. My major was mechanical, though due to the heavy influence of my R.A., I spent quite a good deal of my time intensely involved with him the nuclear program back and forth between S.B. and Brookhaven. It was this intense involvement that made me realize college was just not at all interesting to me. More importantly though, I have driven a train and also stayed at a Holiday Inn Express recently. Might I inquire as to what sparks your interest in my academic days?
     


  15. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member

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    Unquestionably its the pix... [​IMG] PS: Pretty kewl about the train... Its not a formula 1 racecar, but at your age...at your age... [​IMG]
     


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