sack suit

[yerfdog]

Can somebody please explain the difference between a modern sack suit and a modern (regular) suit?

When I try to look up sack suit I just get a whole bunch of results explaining about casual wear from the mid-19th century, and I'm sure current sack suits that people wear are not cut exactly like that. (but does it have to be a 3-piece like the 19th century ones apparently were?)

thanks

 

[j]

A more Tradly member will undoubtedly expand, but basically a sack suit is simply a suit that has minimal waist suppression, which is to say, it's nearly the same size at the waist as at the chest, so it just hangs almost straight down. Usually, sack suits don't have front darts (which are used to effect the waist suppression of a non-sack suit).

 

[Rekevalate]

Originally Posted by j

A more Tradly member will undoubtedly expand, but basically a sack suit is simply a suit that has minimal waist suppression, which is to say, it's nearly the same size at the waist as at the chest, so it just hangs almost straight down. Usually, sack suits don't have front darts (which are used to effect the waist suppression of a non-sack suit).

Hey J,

Are darts the line of stitching on either side at the fronts which pull the suits in?

 

[grimslade]

Yes, the darts are the seams that, in this case, run down the side/fronts and usually end at the top of the pockets. The distinguishing feature of a sack suit is that it lacks those seams. There are those who claim that even without darts, a sack suit need not look "like a sack."

 

[Rekevalate]

Originally Posted by grimslade

Yes, the darts are the seams that, in this case, run down the side/fronts and usually end at the top of the pockets. The distinguishing feature of a sack suit is that it lacks those seams. There are those who claim that even without darts, a sack suit need not look "like a sack."

Thanks, I always wondered what they were.

 

[JBZ]

Originally Posted by j

A more Tradly member will undoubtedly expand, but basically a sack suit is simply a suit that has minimal waist suppression, which is to say, it's nearly the same size at the waist as at the chest, so it just hangs almost straight down. Usually, sack suits don't have front darts (which are used to effect the waist suppression of a non-sack suit).

Generally, sack suits also have narrower lapels and soft (i.e. unpadded or "natural") shoulders. Also, per the trads, flat front trousers. As for waist suppression (and I believe Manton has said as much in the past), darts are only one way to suppress a waist. I've never owned a sack suit, but those who have state that they can be tailored to be more fitted, despite the lack of darts. Also, I've owned darted suit jackets which, no matter how much tailoring, never give me a fitted appearance (Hickey Freeman is a prime example for me - I've never been able to get them to fit correctly after several attempts with three different suits). However, even if you can have a sack suit tailored for a more fitted appearance, you're not going to get the look of a suit which has been designed to provide a more fitted appearance (Attolini, for example). It's just a different animal. You have to like a less fitted style to begin with, or the sack is probably not for you.

 

[Larry Lean]

Originally Posted by JBZ

Generally, sack suits also have narrower lapels and soft (i.e. unpadded or "natural") shoulders. Also, per the trads, flat front trousers. As for waist suppression (and I believe Manton has said as much in the past), darts are only one way to suppress a waist. I've never owned a sack suit, but those who have state that they can be tailored to be more fitted, despite the lack of darts. Also, I've owned darted suit jackets which, no matter how much tailoring, never give me a fitted appearance (Hickey Freeman is a prime example for me - I've never been able to get them to fit correctly after several attempts with three different suits). However, even if you can have a sack suit tailored for a more fitted appearance, you're not going to get the look of a suit which has been designed to provide a more fitted appearance (Attolini, for example). It's just a different animal. You have to like a less fitted style to begin with, or the sack is probably not for you.

Through being so lazy I held back on this thread...
Mr. JBZ's answer is much better than any I could have given anyway. Sacks 101.

On the whole it's a softly constructed, less fitted look, although it can be as fitted as you wish it to be. It never has a sharp waist however, but you can employ some gentle shaping without leaving the 'cannon' of the style.
It is what it is. Comparing it to other styles doean't really make much sense. It's just a different aesthetic.
Some like it.
Some like it not.