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Blackmaged

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Excellent! Last question for now... care to share what color of Bedford cord will be returning & what will the newcomers be?

And the Chesterfield — yes, that is very representative of the (to be) finished coat.

The cloth on that prototype is monstrously thick, however, and the finished one will be lighter in weight. Come to think of it ...


... is more recent, and the cloth in that photo is closer to the one we've lined up for production.
 

sehkelly

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Excellent! Last question for now... care to share what color of Bedford cord will be returning & what will the newcomers be?

Please — as many questions as you like. I could waffle on about this sort of thing all day every day.

The colour of Bedford cord that is returning is the charcoal (as the trench below).

trench-coat-bedford-cord-charcoal-0.jpg
trench-coat-bedford-cord-charcoal-9.jpg
trench-coat-bedford-cord-charcoal-5.jpg


The two new colours are navy and biscuit. Both are mottled and marbled with other shades, as indeed is the charcoal. This effect is most apparent in the navy, which has quite a few strands of grey running through it.

The tielocken will be made in navy and biscuit; the Chesterfield navy and charcoal.
 

zenosparadox

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I wanted to extend my compliments on an order placed this past week for the olive cord work jacket and a pair of the deerskin gloves with wool cuffs.

I know that this is only to recapitulate what has been said repeatedly in this thread, but the quality of both items is exceptional. I rarely spend full retail on clothing items, both because I really shouldn't do so (at least too often) on my budget and because I almost never find the construction and materials of jackets (for instance) priced at $400-$600 to be worth the initial ask. Which is all prelude to my saying that I've never been so pleased to have spent over $500.

Many thanks as well to Paul for the advice on sizing. I had considered sizing up to an XL on the jacket to allow for layering, but am glad I didn't. The jacket is very much TTS. I could even likely fit a M in the chest were the M a bit longer in the body. As is, I'm very pleased with the balance. What I'm most pleased with is the material and little design elements. As a student and teacher of British cultural history (from Canada and living in the US), it's quite pleasurable to wear a jacket that is also something of an archive of British material and manufacturing.

So, in short, great work all around, both in terms of product and service. I'll be back soon for something woolen!
 

sehkelly

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That's great to hear.

Thank you.

We like to try new ideas here and there, but everything is indeed rooted -- inescapably really -- in the best possible British tradition.
 

10dence

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Please — as many questions as you like. I could waffle on about this sort of thing all day every day.

The colour of Bedford cord that is returning is the charcoal (as the trench below).

View attachment 1252456 View attachment 1252457 View attachment 1252458

The two new colours are navy and biscuit. Both are mottled and marbled with other shades, as indeed is the charcoal. This effect is most apparent in the navy, which has quite a few strands of grey running through it.

The tielocken will be made in navy and biscuit; the Chesterfield navy and charcoal.

Oh dear, I was hoping I was done for now..
 

sehkelly

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The gansey is nearly ready for launch.

True to the ganseys of British coastal yore, it is in simple terms a heavy wool sweater with a rollneck.

However, it brutally foregoes the decorative elements of its ancestors — the cables, diamonds, ladders, and anchors, and all the other lovely village-of-origin details — in favour of a brutally simple "very heavy top-half and lighter-weight lower" combination. Indeed, I was drawn to the idea of making this divide as drastic as can be reasonably achieved on a single domestic knitting machine.

gansey-geelong-lambswool-dark-navy-2.jpg
gansey-geelong-lambswool-dark-navy-3.jpg
gansey-geelong-lambswool-dark-navy-4.jpg
gansey-geelong-lambswool-dark-navy-6.jpg


It has a dropped sleeve — true to those ganseys of olden times — which imparts a smooth line over the shoulder and a very distinctive nautical look.

And, as with all our knitwear, it is entirely hand-framed and fully fashioned — knitwear's version of tailoring, with each element individually shaped to achieve a good and decidedly non-fisherman's-friend fit. Hand-linked, too, so the joins are all seamless unless they're intentionally raised (as acorss the chest).

Should be online in a day or two.

Paul
 

TweedyProf

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Perhaps this is showing off, but my last picture was blurry and too close so one can't easily get a sense of the shape of the peacoat in relation to the body at large (i.e. its overall aesthetic). So, here's an in focus picture. It's a terrific coat, and I'll note here that there's a touch of shape in the waist which is nice, traditional with a nod to waist suppression that many of us favor. The lapels are substantial without being exagerated, and they stand up with a nice softness and give while still shielding the head and neck. The shoulders are soft and not padded.

Importantly, the coat has just the right amount of trimness, at least on me. I think for this style of coat, it should not be too trim, not just for layering's sake but the coat should have a nice bulk to it in the chest. It is a coat for inclement, challenging weather, and it should look it. Still, it should also be nice to throw on in the brisk chill of a normal autumn day. I think the coat balances this bulk/shape requirement nicely. Of course, this will vary from user to user, but here you go:

SEH Kelly.jpg
 

sehkelly

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Looks great to me.

Thanks for sharing it.

It reminds me that I must renegotiate with Sara my "one new coat every five years" personal allowance.

Much of the work this past year on coats has been honing what went before. I suppose that's always the way, or at least should be, and I often find incremental improvement to existing styles just as satisfying as starting a whole new project. Must be getting old.
 

pleatedjeans

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Looks quite nice, the length is very flattering and well proportioned for the lapels...actually the whole thing is nicely balanced (button placement/pockets)
 

LaymanX

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Sorry I was late, but is there going to be another drop of the peacoat anytime soon?
 

sehkelly

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Sorry I was late, but is there going to be another drop of the peacoat anytime soon?

Afraid not, no. We seldom restock things once they've been and gone, as we tend to be tied up with other things in production.

We do have one or two of the same peacoats in tobacco (the same cloth as https://www.sehkelly.com/field-shirt-in-heavy-uniform-melton-in-tobacco/) which will go online later this week. And we have at least one peacoat in the same cloth in black, which, since there's only one (or maybe two) will probably remain a "workshop exclusive" — i.e. offline only — until someone sweeps it off its feet.
 

Spaghettimatt

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Knocking it out of the park with the Gansey and the duffle this week.
 

sehkelly

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Knocking it out of the park with the Gansey and the duffle this week.

Cheers.

It is a good time of year now, and it is all hands to the pump at the factory.

Amazing how speedily things can pick up.

The dust has only just settled on the newly made duffle coats, but the balmacaan is finished now, too, and the trench and tielocken have already both been cut and are queued up for making. We're already onto the last cutting work of the autumn, in fact, which is the uncharted territory that is the Chesterfield.

Somewhere amidst the heavy coats is the cooks jacket, SB3, and a fair number of new trousers.

And you can barely move for new knitwear at the workshop, either.

It is certainly keeping me on my toes, and between now and this time next month — if not beyond — there will hopefully be a steady stream of things thick and woolly and warm added to the site.
 

ojaw

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Paul, how's the broken... thing... arm?
 

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