S.E.H Kelly

[sehkelly]

In slightly less esoteric news, we've been finishing off a bunch of new items in various linens from Northern Ireland — starting with these, the field trousers.

And then we have some shirts made with the same sort of linen, but lighter weight (and thus lighter than all our usual linen shirts). They have a revised version of the spread collar, about which I am frankly tickled: a tighter curve here and a straighter line there makes a world of difference. And a really nice, really curvaceous collar stand, that curves around the neck in just the best way we've ever managed to achieve.

 

[sehkelly]

And here are those shirts I mentioned ...

The linen here is, as mentioned, lighter in weight than previous years, but still has the same appearance, with yarn sanforised and mercerised for anti-shrink duties, and given a washed finish for a good handle.

And on the horizon on the shirt front is this:



The cloth is a blend of cotton, silk, linen, and wool. Busy!

 

[PacoPico]

Wow. That’s some serious texture! What does that blend feel like?

 

[sehkelly]

Wow. That’s some serious texture! What does that blend feel like?

Soft, and a little bit spongy, and slightly fluffy.

It is high-grade suiting cloth so is very crease-resistant too.

 

[sehkelly]

Here's another photograph.

What is silk, what is wool, what is cotton, what is linen — who knows?

 

[ojaw]

Here's another photograph.

What is silk, what is wool, what is cotton, what is linen — who knows?

View attachment 1964461

So it’s made from all of those?

 

[sehkelly]

So it’s made from all of those?

Yep. About half is cotton and the rest the other three.

 

[ojaw]

Wow, the holy quadrinity!

 

[sehkelly]

Wow, the holy quadrinity!

It is true.

Our relentless 14-year pursuit of the Holy Quadrinity is complete.

 

[RozenKristal]

It is true.

Our relentless 14-year pursuit of the Holy Quadrinity is complete.

That is heirloom quality right there

 

[nemononame]

And here are those shirts I mentioned ...

The linen here is, as mentioned, lighter in weight than previous years, but still has the same appearance, with yarn sanforised and mercerised for anti-shrink duties, and given a washed finish for a good handle.

View attachment 1964415
View attachment 1964419
View attachment 1964409
View attachment 1964421
View attachment 1964411
View attachment 1964413
View attachment 1964423
View attachment 1964417

And on the horizon on the shirt front is this:



The cloth is a blend of cotton, silk, linen, and wool. Busy!

Must admit I will miss the debonair way the old, longer spread collar would flare out along the collar bone area when the shirt was unbuttoned, but this new refinement does seem, well, more refined, and, ah, thoughtful. Looking forward to the one I just ordered.

The new standard collar seems to me smarter in every way to the older version I dug up here to compare: https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/shirt-standard-collar-desert-grey-5-2x-jpg.1153310/ . And what lovely fabric -- I may size up and use it as an overshirt.

 

[sehkelly]

Must admit I will miss the debonair way the old, longer spread collar would flare out along the collar bone area when the shirt was unbuttoned, but this new refinement does seem, well, more refined, and, ah, thoughtful. Looking forward to the one I just ordered.

The new standard collar seems to me smarter in every way to the older version I dug up here to compare: https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/shirt-standard-collar-desert-grey-5-2x-jpg.1153310/ . And what lovely fabric -- I may size up and use it as an overshirt.

I think you'll find the new spread collar and previous iterations very, very similar, as we haven't changed it all that much. Lots of work, lots of fine-tuning, but the net result is extremely close to what went before.

I guess the standard collar hasn't much changed, either! Looking at that older photograph, the similarities are striking! But again, lots of fine-tuning and honing and working hard on having it sit more cleanly, behave more obediently over time, and a nicer curve of the stand around the neck.

Thanks so much for the custom, too, by the way!

 

[sehkelly]

One of the first coats we have lined up for later in the year is this, the Chesterfield, which we haven't made for a few years.

It's a large, heavy single breasted coat, but with a collar that's more akin to double-breasted in size and shape. It is unique among our line-up in having a semi-raglan sleeve.

We've made a few changes to it, most notable making it longer, and giving the pocket at chest a flap. It has a sharper shape to it, too.

The cloth is a heavy hopsack merino woollen, which is the same used the last time we made it — really, it's a knockout cloth, and we've been keen to use it again since running out last time.

Quite a bit of our outerwear for the autumn will be more tailored in style: this, the new topcoat, and if all goes well, the British warm, which is a double-breasted "officers coat" style coat.

 

[RozenKristal]

I really like the place where 2 lapels overlap. Not flat against the body but a curvature.

 

[sehkelly]

I really like the place where 2 lapels overlap. Not flat against the body but a curvature.

Glad you like it!

The Chesterfield has a fly front so there's no button at the chest to flatten the roll of the lapel.

It's also mightily thick cloth ... which we press the lapel only lightly so you get a nice soft roll, rather than a hard folded press.