S.E.H Kelly

[kaizerpi]

With the pass through pockets in the SEH Kelly, how does that impact warmth/wind resistance? I could imagine it just getting really cold. Cool detail though. See it in doctor's white coats.

 

[Csus2]

Of the issues that relate to warmth and the balmacaan, I have not found the pockets worth mentioning. On cold, windy days, -15C and below, the lack of a full lining in the back can get noticeable, as one can feel the wind cut through the back of the coat, even when wearing a heavy sweater. Oh, the tribulations of living in Canada.

Of course, fabric weight and density changes year by year, so every coat is different.

 

[sehkelly]

With the pass through pockets in the SEH Kelly, how does that impact warmth/wind resistance? I could imagine it just getting really cold. Cool detail though. See it in doctor's white coats.

I don't think there's any concern on that front.

The pocket system is similar (but not identical) in function, but very different in construction.

Rather than the pocket mouth on the outside of the coat having a second pathway through to a patch pocket sewn to the inside, there's a whole additional layer of tweed on top of the pocket bag, and the vertical mouth at the exterior doesn't overlap with the interior. Besides, both mouths are covered with obnoxiously large flaps (of tweed).

Clearly not really very easy to describe! But here's a hand going in ...

... and the same hand coming out ...

I suppose it must inevitably mean there's one more route for cold air into the coat ... but it's a very narrow and obstructed strait indeed. In all the years we've offered it, it serving accidentally as a point of ventilation has never even occurred to me, nor reported by any of its owners.

 

[sehkelly]

Of the issues that relate to warmth and the balmacaan, I have not found the pockets worth mentioning. On cold, windy days, -15C and below, the lack of a full lining in the back can get noticeable, as one can feel the wind cut through the back of the coat, even when wearing a heavy sweater. Oh, the tribulations of living in Canada.

Of course, fabric weight and density changes year by year, so every coat is different.

Thanks for the input!

We quite like to show our "workings out" so hence, mainly, the buggy lining in the back (which falls to the small of the back these days).

It's true that 75% of the cloth that goes into the balmacaan is at the front, though. Quite a front-heavy affair!

We have made it fully lined in the past for stores in Japan, on request, but I miss the bound seams and the folded pleat, and the work that goes into that. And, to be honest, I never found a single layer of satin to be much use, heat-wise, anyway!

 

[oldworldelegance]

... and at the risk of repeating myself from maybe a week ago, it will be the return of the cardigan, polo shirt, and v-neck, as well as a new t-shirt and watch cap — all in cotton.

Oooh cotton nicely apt for spring. Incidentally, have you ever considered using linen or linen / cotton blends for spring / summer knitwear?

 

[sehkelly]

Oooh cotton nicely apt for spring. Incidentally, have you ever considered using linen or linen / cotton blends for spring / summer knitwear?

We've used both in years previous, but found it stretches, and at least doesn't hold its shape as well as the cotton we now use in spring (which is extremely obedient!)

 

[Csus2]

Thanks for the input!

We quite like to show our "workings out" so hence, mainly, the buggy lining in the back (which falls to the small of the back these days).

It's true that 75% of the cloth that goes into the balmacaan is at the front, though. Quite a front-heavy affair!

We have made it fully lined in the past for stores in Japan, on request, but I miss the bound seams and the folded pleat, and the work that goes into that. And, to be honest, I never found a single layer of satin to be much use, heat-wise, anyway!

I do love the look of the workings. It's honestly not bad; if it were a normal year, I might not even notice, but the pandemic has limited friendship activities here to "taking long walks," and a 3-hour-long walk in that weather really gives one a chance to ponder the experience of one's outerwear

 

[bry2000]

As I mentioned in my previous post, I would prefer the length of the bal to go below the knee.

What exact measurements I don't know. I would prefer to leave that decision to you @sehkelly as the designer. You are in a better position to figure out what length would look good and would be proportionate with the design of the coat. It is hard to opine on the length without considering the cut coat in total.

 

[sehkelly]

I do love the look of the workings. It's honestly not bad; if it were a normal year, I might not even notice, but the pandemic has limited friendship activities here to "taking long walks," and a 3-hour-long walk in that weather really gives one a chance to ponder the experience of one's outerwear

Crikey!

Talk about character-building!

 

[sehkelly]

As I mentioned in my previous post, I would prefer the length of the bal to go below the knee.

What exact measurements I don't know. I would prefer to leave that decision to you @sehkelly as the designer. You are in a better position to figure out what length would look good and would be proportionate with the design of the coat. It is hard to opine on the length without considering the cut coat in total.

The fundamentals of the coat, in terms of size and proportion, are quite classic, so a few inches here or there on the length don't break the design as such.

However, I know what you mean, and my gut at this stage tells me that 41-42" is a sweet spot.

More than that and at least on a single-breasted coat, and especially one without patch pockets or other elements to draw the eye, the rest starts to look a bit underpowered.

 

[himichael]

a question for Paul or anyone with thoughts on it: would it be sensible to hem the coat received if i want it shorter? would it (1) be practical and (2) mess up the proportions?

 

[Spaghettimatt]

a question for Paul or anyone with thoughts on it: would it be sensible to hem the coat received if i want it shorter? would it (1) be practical and (2) mess up the proportions?

I think if you’re only taking max 3-4 inches off it would be fine. IMO it only starts to look awkward if the pocket placement is off and you start really running up into the inverted pleat.

 

[sehkelly]

a question for Paul or anyone with thoughts on it: would it be sensible to hem the coat received if i want it shorter? would it (1) be practical and (2) mess up the proportions?

Shortening the coat should be straightforward enough. There are quite a lot of layers that run into the hem but so long as they're all cut by equal amounts, it is fine! It only becomes complicated if you go so high as to reach the pocket bags.

In terms of style, I believe it is in the eye of the beholder, and I've seen single-breasted coats of every length over the years, worn beautifully and ... well, less so! Our car coat has a massive collar but is much shorter than the balmacaan; likewise the donkey jacket. We're developing a coat now which is very long and its collar is smaller than the balmacaan and trench.

I think it's very much about how you wear it, with what, and how you carry yourself when wearing it: if it's a length that works well with your physical and sartorial proportions, and it makes you feel complete and confident, then you can't go wrong.

 

[RozenKristal]

So far, I believe the following might happen?

1) Longer length.
2) Optional belt?

 

[sehkelly]

So far, I believe the following might happen?

1) Longer length.
2) Optional belt?

Yes!