• We would like to welcome Craftsman Clothing back as an official Affiliate Vendor. Craftsman Clothing is a brand for the refined men who want to look good with minimal effort, and care about products that are well-made. In additon to being a go-to brand for all things essential, Craftsman Clothing also offers bespoke outerwear that’s uniquely crafted for you. Please visit their thread and give them a warm welcome.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

sehkelly

Senior Member
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
613
Reaction score
770
All this talk of peacoats has me feeling a little slow off the mark to talk about the peacoat we are making currently, all being well with a view to release at the end of the month.

We haven't made many changes since last year, apart from in the fit. It will be nudged towards "overcoat" in future, further away from "jacket". We've increased the width across the back, and put more hidden lift into the sleeve, so it is easier to raise your arm. We've raised the armhole, too, to help with that -- but only a little, since the sleeve, for my money, still needs to have good width to look "right" for a big, hefty peacoat. With such things there will always be tweaking: I suspect I'll be going round in circles on these matters for the rest of my life.

The cloth this time will be from an old mill up in West Yorkshire. It won't look too different from last year (or the year before, or the year before) but is lighter in weight. My ambition is to make the coat more useful for more of the year, whereas previous ones have been formidable winter juggernauts. (The exception being the hopsack from which your Mr. @Patrick R's peacoat is made: that is much alike with the weight of this year's peacoat cloth).

As well as the traditional navy, there will be a dark khaki, too: one of those awkward shades that defies being given a label. It is a replica of military cloth favoured by the British Army about 150 years ago (which in the lifespan of the mill isn't very long ago: they've been in operation since the USA was a country, which I always find staggering). We used it two years ago for a short run of trench coats, in fact, and I've been hankering after using it again ever since.

Hopefully they'll be done before the end of September, at a similar time to the balmacaan and duffle coat.

Before that we have the return of the work jacket in heavy corduroy (four colours! Good grief.)
 

Patrick R

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
3,931
Reaction score
9,112
The cloth this time will be from an old mill up in West Yorkshire. It won't look too different from last year (or the year before, or the year before) but is lighter in weight. My ambition is to make the coat more useful for more of the year, whereas previous ones have been formidable winter juggernauts. (The exception being the hopsack from which your Mr. @Patrick R's peacoat is made: that is much alike with the weight of this year's peacoat cloth).
I can attest to the very functional weight of the version I own. I have heavier coats for the ugliest of days here in Chicago, but the S.E.H. Kelly peacoat is very functional for me on most of the days between late fall and early spring.
 

sehkelly

Senior Member
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
613
Reaction score
770
Speaking of "late fall and early spring" (thanks for the opportunity, Patrick) -- we've some shirts newly arrived at https://sehkelly.com/shop/.

If you happen to meet me in person between now and April, you can guarantee I'll be wearing one of the first five.

We made shirts with the merino-cotton cloth from County Donegal last year. Truly a delight.

And the heavy-but-fine-wale corduroy and moleskin -- they're old timers here, and I don't think we've gone through an autumn without one or the other since the day we started. I've several which are five or six years old and have taken a battering in the most graceful way imaginable.
 

sehkelly

Senior Member
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
613
Reaction score
770
... and one more shirt, new this morning — this one made in the most autumnal of autumn shades.

shirt-standard-cord-cedar-4.jpg
shirt-standard-cord-cedar-1@2x.jpg
shirt-standard-cord-cedar-6.jpg
shirt-standard-cord-cedar-2.jpg


The cord here is deceptively thick. I think the fine wales make it look lighter than it is. The moleskin, meanwhile, from which the new granddad shirts are made, is near-absurd levels of heaviness: having worn one myself yesterday, it caught be off-guard, rather, as it is more jacket-weight than shirt. Makes for a good overshirt, perhaps.
 

TweedyProf

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
4,447
Reaction score
3,138

sehkelly

Senior Member
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
613
Reaction score
770
These shots nicely show many aspects of the peacoat. @sehkelly (Paul) can tell us if the design has changed much. A lovely Fox cloth.

https://rix.stores.jp/items/59d5ddaced05e67095001205

View attachment 1237416
The peacoat hasn't changed too much since then.

The pocket size and positioning is different -- the top of the patch pockets line up with the lowest buttons -- and the wrap is wider (I don't know if it's the photograph but it looks very narrow there). The seams that run down from the armpit are also pushed back, so they're not so prominent as there: when the coat is on, they run down the front-side of the body, rather than the front-front.

The in-seam pockets are lower, too, so they're at a better height for wanton hand-plunging.

Some of the close-up pictures on the page are good, though.

Oh, and you can rest assured the price won't be quite as high as it was in Japan ...
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2018
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Before that we have the return of the work jacket in heavy corduroy (four colours! Good grief.)
Very tempted by the cedar corduroy, will that be returning? Any major alterations from the prior release? Lastly does the true to size fit allow for any layering or just enough for a shirt underneath?
 
Last edited:

sehkelly

Senior Member
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
613
Reaction score
770
Very tempted by the cedar corduroy, will that be returning? Any major alterations from the prior release? Lastly does the true to size fit allow for any layering or just enough for a shirt underneath?
Yessir — we have made a *very* small number in the cedar colour from last year, having procured a similar very small quantity of cloth from the mill. If you are interested in it, best drop me a line, as they're thin on the ground in that colour.

There are new dark olive and dark navy colours, too, as well as a handful in "nearly black".

No change to last year, apart from lengthening the sleeve to bring it into line with all our other jackets. Some found it too short before, see.

I should think you'd be okay with a regular shirt plus a fine knit, or a thicker knit, or a thick shirt. It isn't intended as an ultimate top-layer, but rather an all-year-round casual jacket fit.

Hope that helps.
 

sehkelly

Senior Member
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
613
Reaction score
770
I often say that the most exciting part of this job is developing something new -- probably when the first prototype is made, or maybe just the first toile, when you see the thing that's been in your head for weeks or months taking form on a mannequin.

(Usually this exhilaration takes a knock when the first sample is made, and all you can see is all the faults and mistakes, and you back to the drawing-board you go.)

If that's the most exciting part, then the most satisfying is the third or fourth iteration of a style, when you feel strongly that you've really hit the nail on the head, wiped out any niggles, and perhaps strengthened the original idea to the point when no obvious further changes need be made.

The field shirt is at that stage now, I think, as it goes into production for the third time. The biggest change we've made to it is the pockets, which are now larger, and one is bellows, and both run into the front placket. It ties it up nicely, I think.

field-shirt-second-toile-1@2x.jpg
field-shirt-second-toile-2@2x.jpg


It is already quite a strange beast, the more you know about it, because it has the dolman construction which eliminates the shoulder seams. Instead, the seam across the chest is, in a way, the shoulder seam. And I like now that the pockets are boxed in above by that seam, and to the sides by the placket.

None of this will matter much to most people, of course!

We are making it this time in this cloth, which is a great marbled melton from West Yorkshire, and in a dark khaki cloth from the same mill which is much the same, but more uniform in its colouring.

Should be ready in a three or four weeks.
 

10dence

Member
Joined
May 7, 2018
Messages
14
Reaction score
7
Will the field shirt or the work jacket have pockets with side entry? If so, sign me up as very interested.
 

sehkelly

Senior Member
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
613
Reaction score
770
Neither will, alas, no!

We have another short / mid-layer style jacket upcoming, known as the "cooks jacket" which *will* have side-entry pockets. (It'll also be reversible.)

To be honest, the work jacket seems a little too short to have side-entry pockets at a decent, comfortable height -- and perhaps already overloaded on the pocket front.

The field shirt could have them, but I conceived it more as a "one step up from a shirt" in the wardrobe, and having side-entry pockets would elevate it too far into jacket territory (territory already occupied by a half-dozen other things).

The flight jacket is the other jacket we have with side-entry pockets (and having typed that, I realise it is much the same length as the work jacket). We are skipping that one this year, though, with a return likely early next year.

Paul
 

sehkelly

Senior Member
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
613
Reaction score
770
I've had a few enquiries via this place about our schedule for the new winter coats.

We hope to have the peacoat in navy and dark khaki finished by the end of the month, followed shortly by the balmacaan in Donegal tweed, and then the duffle coat in heavy hopsack melton.

The tielocken and Chesterfield and trench won't be too far behind.

Happy to take names for the waiting lists.

And the work jacket in ridiculously heavy cord -- the first of those are online right now.
 

Featured Sponsor

HOW OFTEN DO YOU SHOP FOR CLOTHES ONLINE?

  • I mainly buy my clothes online.

  • I shop online only if there is a sale.

  • I shop online when shipping and returns are free.

  • I shop in store only for very expensive items I want to try on.

  • I mainly shop in store.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
425,053
Messages
9,126,849
Members
191,832
Latest member
randomnonce

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Top