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sehkelly

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We've had a few people enquiring about the duffle coat in the past few days.

It is coming -- but on account of my arm-break we are running a little behind schedule.

The duffle coat will be a little different this year. We redeveloped some aspects of it earlier in the year, which is the first time we've done so since it was introduced in 2013.

The patch pockets will now have a side entry, which to my mind makes them more than twice as useful. This came about by suggestion from a customer at the workshop, and about which I was initially sceptical as it breaks with duffle coat tradition, and potentially adds bulk to the front (the duffle cloth being unusually thick). Fortunately both matters were overcome in fairly short order, and the most recent prototype has been a pleasure to test-drive.

We've also played around with the hood. We removed the peak, and built in more structure around the hood and collar, so it stands up straighter. This follows on from the work we did on the hood of the parka minor last year (which is quite similar in some ways).

Eagle eyes will also see that we've pulled the over-shoulder yoke back away from the shoulder, about an inch, to better show-off the half-inset, half-raglan one-piece sleeve, which is still among the most simple but counterintuitive sleeves we have.

duffle-redevelopent-toile-1@2x.jpg
duffle-redevelopent-toile-2@2x.jpg


(Not representative of final version. And not the final cloth.)

The most exciting part of the upcoming duffle, to my mind, is the cloth. We have had developed a new version of the cloth which has a bold hopsack weave (previously it was a twill). This gives more texture, and is generally in keeping with the plain-weaves and hopsacks we use for most other things these days. The mill has done a sterling job and it looks great. It is very heavy, at about 35oz, but has surprisingly good drape and flow, and being worsted-spun has a very nice gloss, quite apart from a typical melton.

Oh, and the toggles -- "same old", I am overjoyed to report. Solid, hand-turned horn all the way.

Paul
 

Thibault S

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It ought to be finished within the next two weeks.

There's the gansey -- which is like a rollneck -- plus the good old heavy crewneck, the v-neck, the cardigan, and the polo shirt (long-sleeve).

That's our widest range by some measure. On this trend, we will have reached double-figure knitwear styles by 2032.

Some are in the usual geelong lambswool, and some in a cashmere-cotton blend. And tuck-stitch all the way, as we wouldn't have it any other ... way.

We've also redeveloped the watch cap and scarf (both still simple, but with one or two new ideas).

And, in a shock move, we have developed a balaclava. This has had me in various spurts of childlike glee on and off all year, and I hope to find a handful of likeminded potential balaclava-sporters in the autumn.

If any of the above might float anyone else's boat, please let me know, as we never make huge quantities of anything.
Hi Paul,
What will be the colors for the new watch cap, please? :)
 

sehkelly

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Hi Paul,
What will be the colors for the new watch cap, please? :)
If you want the name of the yarn colours ... it is porcupine / wildebeast and derby / flannel.

That is to say, a dark biscuit and a mid-grey.

Both will be replete with lovely layered marbled colouring, with a mix of tuck and rib-stitch.
 

10dence

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Hi Paul, is it also possible to get notified when you get the peacoats?
 

Nakedsnake

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I know it's a touch of a long shot, but any chance someone has a peacoat in a size large kicking around from the first edition design? If not, i'll keep my eye towards the new design this season and how it compares to previous in cut and cloth.
 

sehkelly

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I know it's a touch of a long shot, but any chance someone has a peacoat in a size large kicking around from the first edition design? If not, i'll keep my eye towards the new design this season and how it compares to previous in cut and cloth.

Do you mean our very, very first peacoat, which was made with the tweed woven in London? It was followed a year later a version in three different colours of thick Donegal wool. Both are long gone, sorry to say.

Occasionally I see or hear about the latter on eBay or Grailed. Yahoo! Auctions too in Japan. Our older pieces also seem to work they're way around various secondhand shops in Japan. Might be worth setting up a Google alert.

I'll share some more information about the upcoming peacoat soon. The cogs are starting to turn at the factory so it'll be heavy overcoats galore (well, small-scale galore) from here on in.
 

Nakedsnake

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Sorry, I should have been more specific. Thanks for the recommendations though.

I mean this one, from FW16 I believe.

However, looking forward to seeing what is down the pipes. I have had an itch for new fall clothing this year, worse than previous years it seems. I'm also looking forward to see what the new field shirt and work jackets look like...

1234511
 

Gordoo

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Sorry, I should have been more specific. Thanks for the recommendations though.

I mean this one, from FW16 I believe.

However, looking forward to seeing what is down the pipes. I have had an itch for new fall clothing this year, worse than previous years it seems. I'm also looking forward to see what the new field shirt and work jackets look like...
There is one on Grailed in size medium right now if you're willing to size down.
 

gnu

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Unfortunately parting ways with my SEH Kelly Ventile Trench (sz M) since I moved to the desert. Its literally brand new, PM if interested.
 

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