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S.E.H Kelly

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by JohnnyLaw, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Since you are between sizes (our S is 38 and M is 40) then the key determinant, at least from the point of view of the jacket, is the cloth. If you’re looking at something substantial, like the SB3 in corduroy, then going up to size M is most certainly the best place to start. The cloth makes it come up small. But the finer worsted that we use would surely be best for you in size S.

    The other factor is how you like your jackets to look and feel. Neither the SB2 or SB3 are very fitted: they’re intended to be quite relaxed as far as tailored jackets go. We sometimes find customers from Italy or France, say, surprised at how our jackets don’t go in much at the waist, and so quite often go down one from their usual size. From my (English) point of view, however, they’re both quite “standard” — but that’s of course a very subjective term and clearly varies from region to region. We fit and develop both (indeed all of our) jackets to mannequins of the relevant size, and so to my mind and method they are “true to size”.

    I’d plump for S, then, unless corduroy or tweed or heavy woollen.

    Hope that helps (and sorry not to respond sooner: I was leaving it just in case someone else was going to jump in).

    Paul
     

  2. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    ... and we are also soon to release a new version of the SB3, which squishes together the best parts of SB2 and existing SB3 and hopefully improves on them both.
     

  3. mitsein

    mitsein Member

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    Thanks for the details. I am interested in the lighter fabric like linen or tropical wool, so will go for small. It will be nice to hear what others - there must be a good few proud owners or SB2 and SB3 here - think of the fit.
    Wonderful news. Will keep an eye on the new releases.
     

  4. ModWar

    ModWar Well-Known Member

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    I am a one of those proud owners of an early and very substantial Tetris tweed SB3 (from late 2013; there might be at least some minor fit changes since than), and a more recent much lighter midweight corduroy SB3.
    I wear those in size XS and would consider myself a true 46. The fit is more generous then lets say Boglioli and brands like that. I also tried out the SB3 in size S once and at least to me it felt quite a big step up having much more room in the shoulders, breast volume and upper arms. Despite having no experience with the makers you have mentioned i would support Pauls estimated size S.
     

  5. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Great. I hope they'll be in production at the start of next month.
     

  6. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Speaking of worsted cloth -- these segues are getting worse, sorry -- we have begun releasing some new shirts for the spring. Only they are not really so much for the spring but hopefully more all the year round.

    The first of them is a two-ply hopsack made in Somerset with super-fine merino yarn. It is splendidly soft, and such is the openness of the weave and the warmth of the yarn, the shirt feels less like a shirt than a very fine merino sweater. It doesn't crease, it breathes, and yet is soft and cosy on the skin. A real box-ticker, this one ...

    shirt-standard-collar-super-fine-merino-hopsack-natural-2@2x.jpg shirt-standard-collar-super-fine-merino-hopsack-natural-6@2x.jpg

    The other cloth is no less remarkable in its way. It is a blend of super-fine merino yarn and wet-spun linen. I like the idea of the structured and straight merino fibres holding in check the unruliness of the linen. It feels more like a linen shirt, perhaps, than a worsted one, but it has a springiness to its behaviour and a lustre to its look and feel that makes it feel more special. And the pattern -- we seldom do patterns, but I do like the regimented nature of the laser-sharp grid pattern.

    shirt-granddad-nano-check-merino-linen-grey-2@2x.jpg shirt-granddad-nano-check-merino-linen-brown-4@2x.jpg shirt-granddad-nano-check-merino-linen-grey-6@2x.jpg

    I've been working through the photographs are becoming rather frustrated, struggling to do justice to the materials. I think with a coat or jacket there are more layers and details and pockets to bring things to life, whereas with a shirt it is all rather flat and minimal and the qualities of the materials is harder to convey. Still — these are by some distance the most exciting materials we've used for shirts in many a spring-summer ... and there's more down the road, too.

    Paul
     

  7. Remy Fool

    Remy Fool Member

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    Fantastic shirts. I only wish I had pulled the trigger on the merino yarn one when my size was available.

    In regards to the linen and merino blend, how would one take care of it (i.e. strictly handwash or can we machine dry this too)?

    Also, what colour would graphite be considered as? Light grey? Greyish blue?

    Edit: alas the point is less relevant now that the newest shirt isn't available in my size but it'll be nice to know for future reference.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2019

  8. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    The cloth is pre-washed to remove a good chunk of shrink.

    However, it pays to wash by hand, or to wash in a machine at temperatures no higher than 20° Celsius (knitwear or woollen cycles are also very good). The tumble-dryer is absolutely the worst thing imaginable: whether it shrinks the cloth or not, it will strip away much of the character and tenacity of the cloth, and won’t do any favours for the horn buttons, either. (They goes for all garments, to my mind, and not just those with slightly high-maintenance fabrication.)

    The grey has to my eyes a slight aqua tinge. Only very slightly, and only after staring at it and thinking about it for an awfully long time.
     

  9. Remy Fool

    Remy Fool Member

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    Ah, understood. I do believe I'll probably look into washing my shirts by hand moving forward.

    Mmm the blue sheen is quite faint and has been on my mind for a while, too.
     

  10. Remy Fool

    Remy Fool Member

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    On second thought, I don't really wear a tie these days. I think a size L could work, too, despite my size 17" neck. I'll have to think about it. Thanks, Paul.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2019

  11. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Never let it be said that we have skimped on shirts with granddad collars this year.

    Here are a few more — both in a merino worsted "hairline" cloth ...

    shirt-granddad-hairline-worsted-blue-1@2x.jpg
    shirt-granddad-hairline-worsted-blue-6.jpg
    shirt-granddad-hairline-worsted-blue-4.jpg

    ... and a particularly nice linen from Northern Ireland.

    shirt-granddad-linen-pinpoint-natural-4.jpg
    shirt-granddad-linen-pinpoint-natural-2.jpg
    shirt-granddad-linen-pinpoint-natural-6.jpg

    ... and that's actually not all. Lots of granddads, this spring.
     

  12. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    The last of our first tranche of new shirts went online this morning.

    It is the same semi-heavy linen point as the previous two, but in blue: another of those tailor-grade linens that make for a linen shirt that doesn't feel or wear anything like a typical summery linen shirt, but rather a quite substantial workwear style shirt. The cloth is washed extensively during finishing, and is then pre- and post-washed during garment manufacturing, so ... lots of washing, and thus a very soft and pleasingly floppy experience.

    shirt-granddad-linen-pinpoint-navy-4@2x.jpg
    shirt-granddad-linen-pinpoint-navy-3@2x.jpg

    And trousers -- the first of the year! We have made this style of trouser before, and we have used this cloth before — a really hearty worsted made in large part with the particularly springy wool of British sheep — but never in this combination. It has the closest we will ever get to a flat front, with darts doing the work of pleats, and with the French seams and all the rest of it, is about as casual a pair of worsted trousers as you are ever likely to meet.

    proper-trouser-tropical-worsted-grey-14@2x.jpg proper-trouser-tropical-worsted-grey-2@2x.jpg proper-trouser-tropical-worsted-grey-7@2x.jpg proper-trouser-tropical-worsted-grey-6@2x.jpg

    Paul
     

  13. Patrick R

    Patrick R Distinguished Member

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    Looks like I was too late for a size L. They look great.
     

  14. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    We are sure to make more trousers in the same cloth, and SB3 jackets, too. We're just waiting on the mill to make more of the cloth. And then, yes -- a fresh production run of both, and perhaps with a second colour, too.

    I am quite taken with the cloth, and it suits us very well: just the right mix of earthiness and everyday practicality.
     

  15. WhyUEarly

    WhyUEarly Senior Member

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    Oh my, does that mean there's the possibility of making it into a matching suit in tropical wool?! Paul, are your jackets typical half canvas?
     

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