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S.E.H Kelly

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by JohnnyLaw, Dec 1, 2011.

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  1. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Not yet. It is just a prototype at this stage.

    We may well use the cloth for actual production, though, depending on how it handles being manipulated (it is very thick, as you can perhaps see from the way the sleeve hangs, or how it is all a bit lumpy around the collar stand).

    I have already started making a waiting list for the balmacaan upcoming this autumn, however, so if you'd like to add your name to the list, by all means drop me a line.
     


  2. Sneaky Pete

    Sneaky Pete Member

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    That fabric is really lovely. How would you describe it? Dark brown/white barleycorn? I dn't think the colour is so different from your usual, but the texturing and weave are perhaps slightly less subtle than usual - but it's hardly flamboyant!
     


  3. fal132

    fal132 Member

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    I hadn't noticed it at first but that cloth looks very heavy indeed. The sleeve and cuff tab are all dead straight. Would you mind sharing the exact weight if you happen to know?
     


  4. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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  5. NaTionS

    NaTionS Distinguished Member

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    Speaking of Japanese stockists, is the list of stockists on the website up to date? Have a few days in Tokyo next month and looking forward to seeing some stuff in person.
     


  6. paddymac

    paddymac Well-Known Member

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    Looks nice!!

    Is this tweed the same Cotton-tweed of the topcoat?
     


  7. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Up-to-date, yes, but not quite exhaustive.

    Other stockists include Nanamica in Daikanyama; 1LDK and Nestrobe, here, there and everywhere; International Gallery Beams; ... and quite a few others. They often juggle stock around between different stores, however — so while the list is up-to-date for the season, it mightn't be for the exact day you visit.

    But they're all very helpful, in the stores: if you're after a particular item, they will be able to track it down if stocked in another branch.
     


  8. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    I don't know the weight of it, sorry ... but it isn't terribly heavy.

    It is very thick, however, and hangs the way it does because of comparatively chunky and rigid yarn. But the actual gsm or what-have-you -- no idea. We are making a few things right now with linen that's in many ways quite similar: a sort of hopsack or box weave, and very fat yarn.

    (Truth be told, sleeves ought to sit like that anyway, on a freshly made coat or jacket, irrespective of cloth.)
     


  9. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    I would call it a box-weave, or a hopsack -- which are two different things that I can never tell apart. It is a bobbly and geometric plain-weave, either way. It might be a basket-weave, even; I can't remember if this is one of the matters about which the country's weavers have reached consensus.

    It has a significant contrast between the dark grey yarn and the off-white. And then you have the autumnal-shaded flecks in there, because it is a traditional Donegal yarn. Quite a mix for our sober leanings. We have used similarly busy materials in years past, but have become more conservative more recently.

    Flamboyance is relative!
     


  10. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    It is similar but has much more texture.

    The defining characteristic of the tweed of the topcoat is "soft"; for this new one it is "bobbly".

    Same type of yarn, though. Well spotted.
     


  11. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Something we have been meaning to do for quite a while, but never quite finding good enough reason or space in the collection, is another belted coat.

    I am coming round to the opinion that a long coat is better with a belt.

    One style of coat which is under-represented (perhaps for good reason) is the tielocken: a variant of the trench coat, which instead of buttons (easily lost on the battlefield) has a fairly elaborate belting system.

    Thus we've begun work on one -- modernising it here and there, but still leaning on quite a few ideas mostly lost in the mists of sartorial time.

    The belt part of it, actually, is still to be determined: whether have it fixed to the garment, as a traditional military-style tielocken, or loose and thus with more "everyday" civilian appeal. Who knows.

    For starters, though, we have a split sleeve, a tailoring-style lapel rather than outerwear one, and a four pocket front.

    tielocken-pattern-dev-1.jpg

    Paul
     


  12. clee1982

    clee1982 Distinguished Member

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    Can you make tielockenlook good with shoes? I think most of the time I have seen people wearing them with boots
     


  13. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    I must admit I haven't ever seen a real, live person wear a tielocken, in all my years.

    It is like a trench, though — which is about as versatile and re-appropriated / reinvented a garment as ever there has been, and is seemingly happy with sneakers, boots, and everything between.
     


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