S.E.H Kelly

[sehkelly]

Paul, have you decided on when to have the top coat released?

The cloth from Ireland arrived with us last week, and it is next in the queue for cutting, so we'll hopefully have them made within a matter of a few weeks.

The Ulster is another woollen coat hoving into view. We resumed our development from early summer and made a second sample last week. It is very nearly there, design-wise, and is now the leading contender for year's batch of Herdwick tweed. Probably best pictured as the missing link between the peacoat and greatcoat.

 

[RozenKristal]

The cloth from Ireland arrived with us last week, and it is next in the queue for cutting, so we'll hopefully have them made within a matter of a few weeks.

The Ulster is another woollen coat hoving into view. We resumed our development from early summer and made a second sample last week. It is very nearly there, design-wise, and is now the leading contender for year's batch of Herdwick tweed. Probably best pictured as the missing link between the peacoat and greatcoat.

How do you describe the differences between Warm coat, Ulster, and the great coat? Would it be the length that draw the line that separate them?

 

[sehkelly]

How do you describe the differences between Warm coat, Ulster, and the great coat? Would it be the length that draw the line that separate them?

Of those three ...

* British Warm — a long double-breasted overcoat in the tailored style, with wide peak lapels. Imagine the tielocken we do but with 6 x 2 buttons rather than the belt.

* Ulster — imagine the peacoat but longer and with different pockets.

* Greatcoat — well, you can see that one already at https://sehkelly.com/greatcoat. It's like the peacoat but monumentally much longer (the Ulster will be a couple of inches shorter and less grandiose all over). Plus epaulettes!

The greatcoat is the longest of all of them. The Ulster will likely be around 41" and the British Warm I am not actually sure, as it still needs some design work before we can make that decision. I think of them all as distinct styles of coat, although with a lot of overlap between the latter two. However, our approach each time is from scratch: the Ulster has a "set in at front and Dolman at back" shoulder and side body, while the greatcoat has the saddle shoulder and just a front and back.

I should think it will all become clearer when they're all presented on the website. I imagine the Ulster will suit more rugged woollens and regional tweeds, whereas the British Warm more sleek overcoatings, and the greatcoat likely staying most of the time in its "military melton" lane.

 

[Shetterd]

The Ulster sounds incredible, I only wish it were 4 inches longer. But you can't have it all, I suppose.

 

[RozenKristal]

Thanks for the detailed explanation! As my coats closet growing, I think I get pickier as I want to make sure they all would be used and loved lol. Knowing the distinctions help me know which would work well with the rest of my stuff.

 

[sehkelly]

The Ulster sounds incredible, I only wish it were 4 inches longer. But you can't have it all, I suppose.

Now there's an idea!

But I don't think the proportions of our Ulster would work in that length. I tend to find the greatcoat okay at that length because of the size of collar and big ol' cuffs, but our Ulster is pared back from that so there's a little bit more of the everyday about it (he hopes).

 

[Shetterd]

Now there's an idea!

But I don't think the proportions of our Ulster would work in that length. I tend to find the greatcoat okay at that length because of the size of collar and big ol' cuffs, but our Ulster is pared back from that so there's a little bit more of the everyday about it (he hopes).

That is entirely fair. I just like a Long Coat 🤷‍♀️

 

[sehkelly]

That is entirely fair. I just like a Long Coat 🤷‍♀️

Understood!

We'll hopefully have photographs the Ulster and the British Warm to share early next month, as both are in sample development phase.

 

[shunese]

are there other t-shirt colors?

 

[sehkelly]

are there other t-shirt colors?

Yessir — admiral blue and malt are here at the workshop. They are the same colours as the polo shirts this year, but are not yet online (though available to anyone who might like one).

 

[sehkelly]

Here's the Ulster in its more-or-less final incarnation.

This doesn't show the half-inset half-Dolman construction, or the inverted pleat or the half-belt at the back ... but it shows most of the rest.

The cloth here is similar to the Herdwick tweed we've used every winter for the past few years (previously the trench and duffle coat). I think it suits the style pretty well.

 

[Shetterd]

Here's the Ulster in its more-or-less final incarnation.

View attachment 1981359

This doesn't show the half-inset half-Dolman construction, or the inverted pleat or the half-belt at the back ... but it shows most of the rest.

The cloth here is similar to the Herdwick tweed we've used every winter for the past few years (previously the trench and duffle coat). I think it suits the style pretty well.

It looks incredible! And it’ll be 41 inches in what size?

I can’t quite remember. There wasn’t inlay, was there? Was there some issue with the Herdwick coats coming up small/short last year due to some part of the production process?

(Sorry Paul that’s very unspecific and I might be imagining it.)

 

[sehkelly]

It looks incredible! And it’ll be 41 inches in what size?

I can’t quite remember. There wasn’t inlay, was there? Was there some issue with the Herdwick coats coming up small/short last year due to some part of the production process?

(Sorry Paul that’s very unspecific and I might be imagining it.)

Glad you like it!

The Herdwick is so thick it tends to make a garment come up small, just through sheer thickness of the cloth. This didn't affect the duffle coat last year because most of that is single layers, but the trench (double-breasted, a few other regions with are double-layer) was very chunky indeed so felt on the body a bit smaller than normal.

The Ulster is fully self-faced at the front and sides and finished in a standard way, but a skilled tailor would perhaps be able to gain an inch in length (or slightly more). The back is half lined and the hem is turned two inches.

The final length is still to be determined. The one in the photograph there is about 42 but we haven't decided on the length: I guess the two factors are 1) "what looks best" and 2) "how does it fit in with the other coats in our range" (as we don't want everything to be e.g. 42 inches but rather offer a full range for customers of all preferences and sizes).

 

[DanielPicktonAllen]

Any sneak peaks of the topcoat/the cloth for it?

Whenabouts do you think they’ll be up?

 

[RozenKristal]

I selling my boots collection to trade for more coats at this rate lol
What colors are for the Ulster, Paul? This one looks great if this is the color.