S.E.H Kelly

[10dence]

They had some issues with galleries back in March already, still not fixed maybe?

 

[sehkelly]

As well as the linen and lightweight knitwear items I mentioned the other day (I think) we are also hard at work getting our proverbial ducks in a proverbial row for the autumn ...

Right now we have the Chesterfield being made. It has been dormant for 3-4 years, and I'm excited to bring it back. We've made some tweaks to it, really in a satisfying process of steady refinement, and I can't wait to get them finished.

The cloth (Donegal tweed) for the topcoat is due later this month and hopefully that will be next into production.

Much the same is true of the duffle coat, which will be coming back this autumn in the same heavy melton we used last year for the greatcoat. Previously we've used somewhat more rustic, earthy cloth, and I'm keen to see the duffle coat in a more refined, lustrous cloth.

*Finally* we've been having fun developing a pullover smock / anorak. Weatherproof outerwear, I mean, with a large pocket at the front and a hood. We've chosen an interesting method of construction, involving the sleeves joined seamlessly onto the body, which is proving very tricky to get right, but will hopefully lead (paradoxically) to a very simple design. I hope to share some photographs of the development later this month.

 

[booroo]

As well as the linen and lightweight knitwear items I mentioned the other day (I think) we are also hard at work getting our proverbial ducks in a proverbial row for the autumn ...

Right now we have the Chesterfield being made. It has been dormant for 3-4 years, and I'm excited to bring it back. We've made some tweaks to it, really in a satisfying process of steady refinement, and I can't wait to get them finished.

The cloth (Donegal tweed) for the topcoat is due later this month and hopefully that will be next into production.

Much the same is true of the duffle coat, which will be coming back this autumn in the same heavy melton we used last year for the greatcoat. Previously we've used somewhat more rustic, earthy cloth, and I'm keen to see the duffle coat in a more refined, lustrous cloth.

*Finally* we've been having fun developing a pullover smock / anorak. Weatherproof outerwear, I mean, with a large pocket at the front and a hood. We've chosen an interesting method of construction, involving the sleeves joined seamlessly onto the body, which is proving very tricky to get right, but will hopefully lead (paradoxically) to a very simple design. I hope to share some photographs of the development later this month.

I'm very excited about the smock. I currently have a Trakke Fishnish which is absolutely amazing in the worst weather but I'd love to see an SEH Kelly spin on the style.

Will it have handwarmer pockets? Which fabric are you planning to use? Will the hood be as large in comparison to the body as per the parka?

 

[sehkelly]

I'm very excited about the smock. I currently have a Trakke Fishnish which is absolutely amazing in the worst weather but I'd love to see an SEH Kelly spin on the style.

Will it have handwarmer pockets? Which fabric are you planning to use? Will the hood be as large in comparison to the body as per the parka?

Yep — it'll have warmer pockets behind the main, central pocket, and the hood and neck will be similar to the parka, yes, in being very high at the front. Likely it will have some sort of tab or strap or drawstring channel to adjust the fit on the hood, too.

Cloth, I really do not know, but something that is good in wet weather, doesn't take on too much weight when wet, and isn't an effort or discomfort to pull over the head.

 

[booroo]

Yep — it'll have warmer pockets behind the main, central pocket, and the hood and neck will be similar to the parka, yes, in being very high at the front. Likely it will have some sort of tab or strap or drawstring channel to adjust the fit on the hood, too.

Cloth, I really do not know, but something that is good in wet weather, doesn't take on too much weight when wet, and isn't an effort or discomfort to pull over the head.

Brilliant!

Being something designed for the worst of weather, I would love it if it had a brushed cotton interior to the handwarmers (or at least not the cool satin you usually use).

Looking forward to hearing/seeing more.

 

[sehkelly]

Brilliant!

Being something designed for the worst of weather, I would love it if it had a brushed cotton interior to the handwarmers (or at least not the cool satin you usually use).

Looking forward to hearing/seeing more.

That's a really good point, about the pocket cloth. Thanks!

 

[sehkelly]

That's a really good point, about the pocket cloth. Thanks!

Come to think of it, what we are more likely to use for the pocket bags on the anorak, and most other items upcoming, is a lightweight but very strong cotton fabric which we've recently acquired. We went through a phase of using it a few years back, but ran out ... but we managed last month to procure quite a bit more: enough hopefully to keep us in strong pockets for years to come.

The fabric was destined to go for covering the wings of gliders and old bi-planes. It is made to very tight specifications (old MOD specification) and is made from a quality of 100% Egyptian mercerised cotton known as Giza 45, which is about the strongest cotton yarn commercially available.

Since we ran out last time, we've used either the satin lining cloth or cotton calico for pocket bags. This is similar to the latter, but is lighter and stronger. It's not brushed or inherently warm to the touch, but is much more so than the satin you mention.

 

[booroo]

Come to think of it, what we are more likely to use for the pocket bags on the anorak, and most other items upcoming, is a lightweight but very strong cotton fabric which we've recently acquired. We went through a phase of using it a few years back, but ran out ... but we managed last month to procure quite a bit more: enough hopefully to keep us in strong pockets for years to come.

The fabric was destined to go for covering the wings of gliders and old bi-planes. It is made to very tight specifications (old MOD specification) and is made from a quality of 100% Egyptian mercerised cotton known as Giza 45, which is about the strongest cotton yarn commercially available.

Since we ran out last time, we've used either the satin lining cloth or cotton calico for pocket bags. This is similar to the latter, but is lighter and stronger. It's not brushed or inherently warm to the touch, but is much more so than the satin you mention.

Interesting. Thanks for that Paul.

I'm not really sure what the need for such a strong and specialised material for the pocket bags is. All I know is that I look forward to placing may hands in the pockets of my moleskin and or fleece-lined handwarmers much more than the satin-lined ones.

I do suffer from unreasonably cold hands year-round though.

 

[sehkelly]

Interesting. Thanks for that Paul.

I'm not really sure what the need for such a strong and specialised material for the pocket bags is. All I know is that I look forward to placing may hands in the pockets of my moleskin and or fleece-lined handwarmers much more than the satin-lined ones.

I do suffer from unreasonably cold hands year-round though.

The stronger the better!

I'm thinking about these garments being worn 10, 20 years from now, and discovered in the vintage shops of the future in the year 2197.

 

[ojaw]

Interesting. Thanks for that Paul.

I'm not really sure what the need for such a strong and specialised material for the pocket bags is. All I know is that I look forward to placing may hands in the pockets of my moleskin and or fleece-lined handwarmers much more than the satin-lined ones.

I do suffer from unreasonably cold hands year-round though.

Pocket bags are notoriously underbuilt, I’m always thankful when a maker cares enough to address this issue.
Also, keeping your wrists warm can help to alleviate chilly hands - I know of what I speak.

 

[booroo]

The stronger the better!

I'm thinking about these garments being worn 10, 20 years from now, and discovered in the vintage shops of the future in the year 2197.

Ah, fair point. Durability is not to be overlooked.

 

[IrIr]

If anyone got one of the green popovers in XS that they're considering returning, hit me up!

 

[nemononame]

The fabric was destined to go for covering the wings of gliders and old bi-planes. It is made to very tight specifications (old MOD specification) and is made from a quality of 100% Egyptian mercerised cotton known as Giza 45, which is about the strongest cotton yarn commercially available.

What an interesting fabric to use -- I recall it (or something similar) being used for the fuselage, rudder and elevators, like on this very common training glider: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schweizer_SGS_2-33. It was wrapped taut around a tube steel structure.

I don't doubt that it could have been used on wings too at some point too.

 

[sehkelly]

What an interesting fabric to use -- I recall it (or something similar) being used for the fuselage, rudder and elevators, like on this very common training glider: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schweizer_SGS_2-33. It was wrapped taut around a tube steel structure.

I don't doubt that it could have been used on wings too at some point too.

Yes -- cotton was once a commonplace cover for airplane wings, with the fabric stretched over the frame of the wings, and usually treated with coatings to protect against moisture and mould.

We rely on quite a few unlikely sources for interesting materials, such as for cotton or linen. Airplane coverings, upholstery, bedsheets ... There's very little production of cotton cloth for apparel here in the British Isles, but still plenty of these more specialist operations.

 

[sehkelly]

In slightly less esoteric news, we've been finishing off a bunch of new items in various linens from Northern Ireland — starting with these, the field trousers.

And then we have some shirts made with the same sort of linen, but lighter weight (and thus lighter than all our usual linen shirts). They have a revised version of the spread collar, about which I am frankly tickled: a tighter curve here and a straighter line there makes a world of difference. And a really nice, really curvaceous collar stand, that curves around the neck in just the best way we've ever managed to achieve.