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sehkelly

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I’m likely talking through my hat here but I find it fascinating how enlarging the epaulets and extending off the shoulder seems to do more to “demilitarise” and soften the piece than just removing them all together.
I like this hat-talk!

We were keen from the start to avoid anything too square and structured up top. But with the saddle shoulder, you get a very soft shoulder — too soft, even, for a coat with a collar like that. It was all out of balance.

So reinstating the epaulettes and having them lie in the space left by the seams of the shoulder worked well ... and then with the box-stitch at the base of the epaulettes lining up with where the head of the sleeve runs on a "normal" greatcoat, it all tied up nicely.
 

WizardVigilante

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If I didn’t already have two blue coats from SEH Kelly I’d be very tempted. I’d imagine this will enter the usual rotation and reappear in future years in a variety of brand appropriate colours?
 

sehkelly

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If I didn’t already have two blue coats from SEH Kelly I’d be very tempted. I’d imagine this will enter the usual rotation and reappear in future years in a variety of brand appropriate colours?
Probably not quite regular rotation, as it is quite a niche proposition (same as the duster and the shopcoat) but it is quite likely to appear again next year.
 

sehkelly

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can we vote on colors and fabrics? 😂
There's an idea!

It is actually quite a narrow band of suitable candidates, as it's a great big slab of cloth, and quite an overbearing style in the wrong hands. It rules out quite a lot of options. It also needs something very heavy, as otherwise it can be rather unimpressive. I have a shortlist and will be thinking about it quite a lot over the next few months.
 

DanielPicktonAllen

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Im a postgrad student in history, and I’m just thinking that certain greatcoat colours could make you look like you’re cosplaying as a few less than desirable historical figures (to put it mildly)… Depending on what colour you go for I could definitely be interested though, and of course what comes first has to be what kind of fabric you guys think will actually work. It’s maybe not very SEHK but I’d be up for a colour that’s a bit “fun”
 

sehkelly

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Im a postgrad student in history, and I’m just thinking that certain greatcoat colours could make you look like you’re cosplaying as a few less than desirable historical figures (to put it mildly)… Depending on what colour you go for I could definitely be interested though, and of course what comes first has to be what kind of fabric you guys think will actually work. It’s maybe not very SEHK but I’d be up for a colour that’s a bit “fun”
It is indeed a minefield.

Lots of nice coats through history favoured by the worst of the worst and ruining it for everyone else.

Overtly military attire similarly seems a bit tasteless given current world affairs, but maybe I'm too sensitive.
 

DanielPicktonAllen

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I don’t think you’re being overly sensitive.
Not wanting to look like a Confederate sympathiser (some greys), or what true black could obviously look a bit like (to observe Godwin’s law I won’t say) is a perfectly reasonable ambition!

hence my somewhat joking idea of something a bit fun. I’m not aware of any evil military figures who wore coats in cerulean…
 

DanielPicktonAllen

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you know I meant real ones Paul… 😂

and ofc there’s a lot of military inspiration in many menswear staples, but a greatcoat is, I would say, particularly explicit in its military origins. Perhaps because it would probably be associated with leaders/generals. Or perhaps it’s merely a function of its size, it just naturally dials everything up to eleven.
 

Csus2

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Disappointed that none of the blurbs on the greatcoat page simply say "the greatcoat is a great coat!" and leave it at that.
 

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