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ojaw

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I'd have compunction about posting this here, but I am selling it to replace with another S.E.H Kelly coat

Great coat, the color just doesn't match my season, or temperature, or spirit animal or whatever.
What colour are you replacing it with?
 

sehkelly

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I hope everyone's had a good bit of a time off, indulging, not working, having a breather, etc.

We've been working on the greatcoat over the past couple of weeks, with one afternoon of development every week, every Wednesday, such is the pace at which we like to plod.

Here is the result from afternoon one.

The main challenge is giving the coat the stature of a classic military greatcoat (which always remind me of the ceremony at the Cenotaph) ... but with a softer shoulder. We decided to try a saddle shoulder, which I quite like because (a) we've only ever done it once before, and (b) it offers up a perfect gap or channel for an epaulette.

It actually proved very challenging! You can see here we are exploring how to pitch the sleeve, and at the same time hide or remove the "rubbish" you get easily get around the front of the armhole.

greatcoat-first-1s@2x.jpg


(The belt is just to stop it falling off the too-small stand.)

And afternoon two:

greatcoat-second-1s@2x.jpg


Success! We took off the sleeve from last week, and now it looks pretty good, with a nice line over the shoulder.

And afternoon three:

greatcoat-third-3s@2x.jpg
greatcoat-third-2s@2x.jpg
greatcoat-third-1s@2x.jpg


A third stab at the sleeve, plus a collar and a placeholder for the pocket.

This collar was done freehand so isn't the fully measured out real deal, but the greatcoat now looks like ... well, a greatcoat, like how I think they're meant to look, and sufficiently different to the peacoat and Chesterfield.

Afternoon four (in the New Year) — the mock-up doesn't need much more work, so much of the first pattern can now be fitted out, the lining and pockets can be figured out, and then we need to make some decisions about the back.
 

sehkelly

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Enjoying these updates. Great to follow the design process. Would definitely be interested in seeing more of this sort of thing.

the half belt looks good
Cheers!

I know it's not the most riveting series of posts!

We try to ensure every item in the collection has its own set of unique features, so it was good to come up with a different style of half-belt to the Chesterfield.
 

whorishconsumer

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I hope everyone's had a good bit of a time off, indulging, not working, having a breather, etc.

We've been working on the greatcoat over the past couple of weeks, with one afternoon of development every week, every Wednesday, such is the pace at which we like to plod.

Here is the result from afternoon one.

The main challenge is giving the coat the stature of a classic military greatcoat (which always remind me of the ceremony at the Cenotaph) ... but with a softer shoulder. We decided to try a saddle shoulder, which I quite like because (a) we've only ever done it once before, and (b) it offers up a perfect gap or channel for an epaulette.

It actually proved very challenging! You can see here we are exploring how to pitch the sleeve, and at the same time hide or remove the "rubbish" you get easily get around the front of the armhole.

View attachment 1726225

(The belt is just to stop it falling off the too-small stand.)

And afternoon two:

View attachment 1726224

Success! We took off the sleeve from last week, and now it looks pretty good, with a nice line over the shoulder.

And afternoon three:

View attachment 1726221 View attachment 1726222 View attachment 1726223

A third stab at the sleeve, plus a collar and a placeholder for the pocket.

This collar was done freehand so isn't the fully measured out real deal, but the greatcoat now looks like ... well, a greatcoat, like how I think they're meant to look, and sufficiently different to the peacoat and Chesterfield.

Afternoon four (in the New Year) — the mock-up doesn't need much more work, so much of the first pattern can now be fitted out, the lining and pockets can be figured out, and then we need to make some decisions about the back.
So the great coat is of military origin? I take it is germane to the style to have a tight waist and wide shoulder?
 

Encore

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sehkelly

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So the great coat is of military origin? I take it is germane to the style to have a tight waist and wide shoulder?
I think almost all of our coats have a military origin.

Duffle coat, peacoat, trench coat, parka major, tielocken at least, certainly.

The greatcoat is definitely in the top tier of "coats associated with the army" and does typically have very strong, structured shoulders, and a nipped waist. Not for us, though, either of those! It'll have the same soft shoulder as many of our other winter coats (in fact, none of them have a set-in sleeve, but rather various different hybrids of raglan) and the body will have a fit similar to the tielocken or peacoat.
 

Encore

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I have shared photos on the 2 coats I acquired recently but I do want to discuss a bit more about them.

I brought both coats on a trip to Montreal and Quebec City with my family after wedding. The weather there is like -20 and we spent a lot of time outside. Both coats hold me well in this weather (with shirt and light blazer underneath, so it would totally work in colder weather if I wear some knitwear underneath ).

I am more into these coats after the trip.

63825983-E5D3-4848-92A3-9026FECE3F68.jpeg
7C6AFEBF-955D-4C4C-9D1F-D079E49F34ED.jpeg
164336C3-D1AA-4E68-95FB-C1783A3B6F92.jpeg
C558091A-49C3-4BB6-A43C-74F02B166751.jpeg
50AAAB9D-D6A4-478F-B1D1-6CABC6DE8BA7.jpeg
 

sehkelly

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I have shared photos on the 2 coats I acquired recently but I do want to discuss a bit more about them.

I brought both coats on a trip to Montreal and Quebec City with my family after wedding. The weather there is like -20 and we spent a lot of time outside. Both coats hold me well in this weather (with shirt and light blazer underneath, so it would totally work in colder weather if I wear some knitwear underneath ).

I am more into these coats after the trip.

They both look great — especially the trench coat, I think, and particularly the last photograph in the snow, where the pocket looks enormous (I am partial to any photograph where a pocket looks enormous).

Thanks for sharing 'em.
 

gwilliams84

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For sale is the brilliant trench coat in weatherproof ripstop in "sand" in a size XS. I have worn this a handful of times and it is in perfect condition, with no marks, stains or holes. This trench is amazing, but it is just not getting the wear it deserves since I moved to a more casual working environment.

Purchased for £590 (around US$795 at today's rate), but letting this go for $550 (incl shipping).
 

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Nakedsnake

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@sehkelly Great coat looks...great so far. I enjoy the updates.

Also, i'm writing this to manifest my FW22. Here's to hoping the shawl cardigan is redone in all its 10 ply glory, and especially in molasses. Runner up would be throstle (slightly less dark brown). We tend to accumulate so many blue and grey articles that a rich deep brown is a wonderful compliment.

And if there ever is such a make up, I would also be (very) interested in a pre-order if it let me add a couple of inches onto the sleeves of said wonder.
 

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