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Many, many thanks.Since L and XL weren't made, I've bought an M and hoping the unstructured nature gives me room for a modest sportcoat or sweater underneath (natural 42). If not, and there's someone else in the US who would be interested in a medium with a try-on or two, feel free to message me. Now less concerned about the sleeves with the above info.
It's not often the weaver of the cloth gets involved, but Sam Goates of Woven in the Bone up in Scotland — she who knows a Hattersley loom better than the rest of us our laptops — says ...
Oh dear!it makes things worse.. at least for me! I was gonna use the fabric weight as excuse to convince myself that I really cannot buy another coat this year...
Interesting. Does that mean all else being equivalent, a raglan would be less warm than a set-in? Or did I misinterpret?Oh dear!
In general — and irrespective of the accuracy of the numbers — I've always believed there's more to the warmth of a cloth than its weight.
The quality and variety of the yarn (some trap warm air; some don't), the nature of the weave (some breathe or have good heat-transfer; some don't) and that's not to mention the manifold factors of the coat itself (I find a raglan sleeve much lighter on the body than a set-in) — they all have as much a bearing on the experience.