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S.E.H Kelly

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by JohnnyLaw, Dec 1, 2011.

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  1. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Another good point.

    Minefield, this sizing business.

    I think it depends on the garment and how it is intended to fit.

    Our one-button jacket -- we make it so that, when buttoned, it is pulled together somewhat at the waist and lower chest. In this scenario, a 38" body chest would want a 38" garment, give or take a quarter-inch here and there. Any larger and, when buttoned, it will hang straight, without the intended "nipped-in" shape.

    But with a raincoat, say, or a trench, we want at least an extra couple of inches in the chest, so that it is relaxed and comfortable, and may be worn over one or more other jackets in winter. You will see the pit measurement on our overcoats corresponds with this.

    I know this is a traditional approach, but it seems in line with a fair few, though of course not all, brands. Every new garment development is fitted on a 38" bust, and fitted to fit, ummm ... right.

    Hope that sort of answers your line of enquiry.

    Paul
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2014


  2. JChance

    JChance Senior Member

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    How do you size your sweater? I'm a 38" chest and am looking at those tuck-stitch crewneck (10-ply?), should i go for a S or M?
     


  3. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Both would arguably be fine for you, but it depends on how much you intend to wear a) under it, and b) over it.

    The S will be snugger, but you will struggle to wear even a shirt beneath it. On the other hand, it will fit closer to the body, and thus an overcoat is an easier proposition (wear a 10-ply jumper and you will be very quickly transformed from a 38 chest to a 40).

    Thinking about it, after writing the above, I would only recommend the M if you intend to wear it as your top layer when outdoors. The "outer knit" as some of our stockists in Japan call them. This isn't quote as odd as it sounds, since the jumpers are warmer than most outerwear (our tweed peacoat runs it close) and they also have a couple of pockets.

    By the way, we plan to make at least one new 10-ply crew-neck jumper this autumn, as well as something similar around the 5 or 6-ply mark, since 10-ply is really only suitable when it is really, really, really cold.

    Paul
     


  4. jet

    jet Persian Bro

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    love this thread and your conviction paul

    10 ply is even too thick for me living in socal but i'll be looking at whatever knits you have to offer
     


  5. Nakedsnake

    Nakedsnake Senior Member

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    Just found this. 10 ply sweater sounds up my alley. It was colder than Mars (literally) last winter where I live. Should be in the UK this winter, and i'll check out your store if I can.

    Edit: Damn, everything on your site looks amazing. Great work over there. Simplicity done really, really well. Might have to pick up another job...
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2014


  6. JChance

    JChance Senior Member

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    Thanks for answering question, Paul.

    Have you decided on the color yet? I live in the extreme cold region so I'm only looking at the 10-ply.
     


  7. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    I'm glad you ask ...

    Most of the time, with our 10-ply jumpers, we use four different shades of lambswool yarn. And no change this time around. It will be a dark-grey / charcoal marle -- think something in the realm of http://www.sehkelly.com/navy-blue-grey-tuck-stitch-jumper/ (but without the blue).

    Or like below, without the rollneck, and again without the blue aspect.

    [​IMG]

    There may be another colour in the offing, too. The knitwear maker with whom we work is rather busy, so it mightn't be possible -- but you never know.

    Fingers crossed and all that.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014


  8. Eyechild

    Eyechild Member

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    Hi Paul,

    I'm sure whatever wool you choose to make your Mac/Peacoat from it will be remarkable – I sincerely hope you make something more from the Donegal tweed though, especially the ash-grey and charcoal tweed – it slightly haunts me I didn't snag one of those last year. Amazing fabric.
     


  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Ahem, a heavy tweed, non-vented sportsjacket for fall. That is all.
     


  10. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Hah.

    You can have the "heavy tweed" part, by all means -- but the non-vented part, I'm afraid, will not be accommodated this time around.

    You're not the first to suggest such, however. There's at least one other fellow I have met via Styleforum that is an anti-vent man. What's the thinking there?
     


  11. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Distinguished Member

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    jumping in to say that SEH kelly knits are the best i've ever handled. easily as substantial as my stark but much softer.
     


  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I feel that vents are extraneous on most modern jackets. There is simply no need for a vent on a jacket that is not meant for riding. I think that if I got on a horse, with my skill, I'd be jumping up and down the rest of the day, trying to get everything back to where nature meant things to be.. And it's even more extraneoous on a jacket that is shorter than about 30" in the back. Most modern jackets are 29" and less, which, on a 5'11" man (i.e. me). On a shorter jacket, the vent either creeps way up the back, or is about 2" long, which makes no sense at all to me.
     


  13. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Hello

    We're reaching a stage now where, some of the cloths we have used since we began, we have become fond of, and enjoyed working with, and so intend to revisit every now and then. The heavy "big barley" Donegal tweed you mention is one such cloth. Particularly the tobacco / charcoal version from last year. Hopefully it will come back around again, before too long, and we can put an end to the haunting.

    The "Tetris" tweed -- which we've used previously for jackets, like at http://www.sehkelly.com/return-tetris-tweed, and which is from the same mill -- will certainly resurface again in a few new colours later this year. The plan is to make at least one coat or jacket with it, as well as some deerskin and tweed gloves (made by a factory which is reputedly the oldest maker of any type of apparel anywhere in Britain. Which is nice.)

    I can also tell you that a couple of other cloths which are being worked on for autumn / winter is a mid-weight tweed from the Inner Hebrides (Inner as opposed to Outer, i.e. Harris and Lewis). We're heading up that way, to take a closer look, in three or four weeks. The idea is to work with a mill on a couple of colourways for readiness late-September. It bears some resemblance to the Donegal tweed you originally mentioned, although, of course, without the nepps and burrs of a Donegal.

    Paul
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2014


  14. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Interesting. Good to know.

    I do enjoy eliminating traditional / vestigial aspects on things, but the vent on a jacket had never occurred to me.

    Especially on shorter jacket (which ours are) I see your point (though this 2" vent thing I don't like the sound of one bit).
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2014


  15. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Distinguished Member

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    I own a jacket that has a removable vent. You can detach the vent and put it in your pocket and suddenly the jacket is ventless. Or, if you so choose, you can purchase additional vents online-- some customers attach three or even five vents to their jackets as a sign of wealth. I know a guy who walked around with ten vents on his jacket until a mugger beat him and left him lying on the sidewalk, humiliated and utterly ventless. Definitely a feature to consider for future designs.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2014


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