Russian Calf by C & J

[Harrydog]

Just got these in special order from C & J - the Albany made up in Russian Calf. I am very happy with the outcome. Intially, I was a little displeased with the metal eyelets, ( they were put on at C & J's recommendation) but I have come to think that they suit the rustic look of the leather.

I have been looking at the RTW offerings at New & Lingwood for a few years, but like the style of the Albany better. The price was better as well.

 

[MalfordOfLondon]

Nice ^^
Would you mind letting us know what you paid for them?

 

[srivats]

They look great! Congrats on the purchase.

 

[Harrydog]

Originally Posted by StephenStyle

Nice ^^
Would you mind letting us know what you paid for them?

A good price....slightly less than at New & Lingwood.
I knew my size in the 337 last and the New & Lingwood pics didn't do a very good job of conveying the look of the brogued captoe they had. My understanding is that C & J make the N&L shoes (as well as the RTW for Cleverley) I inquired with Cleverley and was told they only use the Russian Calf on bespoke orders.

So, it was off to C & J and I am very pleased with the outcome.

 

[Charley]

Gongrats on the extremely nice looking shoes. Very well done.

 

[DocHolliday]

I'm a big fan of the eyelets, for what it's worth.

 

[agoldf]

Nice. I see why you are uncertain about the eyelets, but I think it works either way.

 

[Michael Ay329]

The steel eyelets look great. Perhaps ditch the black laces and use brown ones instead.

Is this the Russian Calf as found on the sunken ship...or another type?

 

[andreyb2]

I thought that apart of N&L, russian calf is bespoke exclusive...

Nice!

Andrey

 

[Winot]

Does anyone know how much extra it costs to use Russian calf on Cleverley bespoke? Their 'standard' bespoke is £2300 inc. trees.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

The steel eyelets look great. Perhaps ditch the black laces and use brown ones instead.

Is this the Russian Calf as found on the sunken ship...or another type?

laces and eyelets are not black. i was tricked, too, though fwiw, they could have a more congruent colour to the leather.

actually it's reindeer.

russian calf is a typical i-gent innovation.

 

[ThinkDerm]

i would have gotten sunken eyelets. was that an option - between the leather lining and the top lining.

 

[Harrydog]

Originally Posted by ThinkDerm

i would have gotten sunken eyelets. was that an option - between the leather lining and the top lining.

C&J didn't really consult with me on eyelet options...they just went ahead with this particular production. When I asked about it after the fact, they said that was their preferred way to make the shoes, citing recommendations from previous customers as to how the leather wore. Turn around time was excellent. I placed the order in mid July and got the shoes last week. And that was with them working around the August holiday. There was also some delay because their senior clicker was out ill for a week or so and they waitied until he returned to cut the pattern. All in all, aside from the eyelet lack of communication, I was very impressed with C&J's service. I would use them again for a special order, but I wonder if they will allow the choice of different lasts when ordering from catalog styles. I suspect not. John Lobb doesn't, and that puzzles me. I love the fact that at EG you can take a pattern and have it made up in any of their lasts.

Color is dark brown for the eyelets and laces. I can see the suggestion for a lighter colored lace, but I have a hell of time sourcing a variety of lace styles.

N&L is the only place I know that sells Russian calf RTW, but my understanding that C&J made those shoes (which C&J more or less confirmed) led me to pursue the purchase directly through C&J in a last and style I preferred over what N&L had. The fact that C&J makes at least the regular Cleverley RTW and perhaps even the Anthony Cleverley line as well made me wonder whether that would allow them to source the hides that Cleverley only produces on their bespoke options. (According to a NY Times article from 2006, the price of bespoke Russian calf is $4,200 or so.)

I worked with Kevin Hill who is the manager at the NY store. He provided excellent service. I had to laugh a little when he responded to my initial query by saying that he would inquire with Mr. Jones regarding my request. I guess there really is a Mr. Jones at the helm of Crockett & Jones.

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by fritzl

laces and eyelets are not black. i was tricked, too, though fwiw, they could have a more congruent colour to the leather.

actually it's reindeer.

russian calf is a typical i-gent innovation.

We can't claim this one. Savvy luxury goods marketers were getting a premium for the stuff long before there were iGents.

 

[bengal-stripe]

Originally Posted by fritzl

actually it's reindeer.

russian calf is a typical i-gent innovation.

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

We can't claim this one. Savvy luxury goods marketers were getting a premium for the stuff long before there were iGents.

The name is actually ‘Russia Calf’ and it was vegetal tanned leather, stuffed with birch oil. The tanning and finish of this leather
was one of the best-kept secrets of Tsarist Russia: the various production steps were carried out at different locations
and so it all got lost in the aftermath of the Revolution.

The shoe photographed is of Russia Calf Leather and is one of a pair made for the Paris Exhibition of 1937, at which the Firm was awarded the "Diplome d'honneur". Willow or analine calf are used these days since Russia Calf is no longer made.

http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/history/bwpages/2.htm

Right from 1973 on the Metta Catherina leather was frequently called Russia Calf
(after all, ‘calf’ are the young of many animals, not just domestic cattle).

http://www.newandlingwood.com/information.phtml