Rules regarding braces

[denning]

I have been perusing a fabulous website I just found, www.englishcut.com which is the blog for a tailor on saville row, Thomas Mahon. What a fascinating site with wonderful insights on what goes on behind the scenes in that Mecca of sartoria and numerous tidbits and trivia (the bit on "no strings attached" was delightful). Mr. Mahon first began at Anderson & Sheppard but then started the firm Steed with a friend and fellow tailor from A&S. After going to the website for Steed I happened upon their section regarding braces and was struck with several queries regarding braces. I know that in times past trousers were always worn with braces rather than belts as they were to hang from the shoulders rather than be cinched at the waist. Nowadays such maxims have flown the coop and you commonly (well not commonly, but it happens enough) see gentleman wearing both braces and belts (like a character on that new show "Eyes"). Anyways, I've gotten off topic. I have always found braces extremely appealing, to me they seem to symbolize a throwback to a bygone era of sartoria, that is if you can get past the visions of, shall we say robust men, in suspenders and short sleeved shirts. However I have never had the fortune of being able to wear them as being a 23 year old law student with taste well outside my current means I have never had a suit made for me (my current wardrobe consists of early purchases of Boss, moving to Canali and now Edwin Nazario), and as such never had a suit with brace buttons. I would feel wrong about having them placed on one of my suits as I think the empty belt loops would harken back to the afore mentioned faux pas of combining belts and braces. So given my inexperience with braces are there any members of this forum who could impart some semblence of knowledge regarding the rules regarding braces? Are they considered formal/informal? What are the differences in materials (silk v. barrathea v. boxcloth)? Are colours chosen to complement the suit (ie. blend in) or are they another chance to show flare, daring and that je ne sais quoi that some men posess like ties and pocket squares or is it merely choice? I know of Trafalgar but are there any other well known manufacturers who make a quality product? Please forgive the length of this post, but I needed a break from studying exams for Contracts and Property. Any advice or help is much appreciated. Sincerely, Denning

 

[Manton]

The most important thing is to wear braces (suspenders) only with trousers that are cut for them.  By which I mean, with a rise long enough so that the waistband at least reaches your natural waist, and probably a little higher.  Braces really do not look good with lower-rise trousers, for a number of reasons, not least being that the tabs have to jut out and curve around your belly, thus emphasizing its bulbousness.  And even if you have absolutely no belly, the long strips of material will tend to lengthen the apperance of your torso at the expense of your leg line, which is not good for the vast majority of men.

There is nothing at all "wrong" about having suspender buttons sewn onto your trousers.  However, very few RTW trousers are cut with the proper high rise for suspenders.  I even have an old RLPL suit back from when they were made in England by Chester Barrie.  These were a deliberate effort to ape Savile Row style, and they had a high rise, but still significantly shorter than my bespoke trousers.

Also, the detailing on brace trousers tends to be different.  As you note, there are no belt loops.  It is simple enough to remove belt loops.  Brace trousers also tend to have either side straps and buckles or a rear strap.  The theory is that these make the trousers "self-supporting", allowing you to wear them without braces.  I find that this theory does not really work out in real life.  But the straps make a nice decorative touch.  They are made from the same cloth as the suit, so if there is enough of that left over, you could always have them added.  However, brace trousers also have an "extended waistband": that is, the waistband continues about 3" past the fly.   That cannot be added short of removing the waistband, recutting a new one, and replacing it.  That is too expensive and too much bother, even if you have the cloth.  Now, an extended waistband is not, I suppose, a dire necessity.  But beltless trousers without them tend to look "incomplete."  Pretty much every tailor I know or have ever visited makes brace trousers with an extended waistband.

Formality/informality: I suppose braces are more formal, but this is not a distinction that carries much weight any more.  Because of the suspender craze of the 1980s, people are much more likely to think "affected, aspiring plutocrat" rather than "formal" when they see a pair.  That's the main problem that younger guys face.  Some people are just incredibly turned off by suspenders, and seriously resent the wearing of them.

Materials: silk tends to wear out, in my experience.  The rayon ones made by Thurston look like good woven silk but last forever.  Box cloth goes better with heavy cloth: winter suits.  In my opinion, Albert Thurston is the best brand hands down.

Coordination: First and formost, the ends should reflect the shoe color, which means no black ends with brown shoes, or vice versa.  You don't have to go so far as to match shades of brown, which is in any case impossible.  White ends go with any shoe color, but look best with black and (to my eye) brown suede.  The silk braided ends I think are best left for formal wear; others will disagree.  As to the colors of the straps themselves, the possibilities are endless.  Don't worry about "matching." Basic colors -- navy, wine, forrest green -- will complement most anything.  Stripes can add a little character and perhaps reflect a color in the shirt or tie.  Dots or other wovens are more adventurous.  I don't really like the super fancy patterns made by Trafalgar.

Rules: No clip-ons; button-on only.  No belts AND suspenders at the same time.  There used to be a rule that suspenders are basically undergarments, and therefore should never show.  This would, of course, require either that all your suits be 3-piece, or that you never remove your jacket.  Personally, I don't follow this rule.  I take my jacket off at the office without fear, and even though my suspenders sometimes show, I still feel "dressed."  But I'm old fashioned enough not to do this anywhere outside my own home or office.

 

[AlanC]

Nice explication, manton.

I have taken to wearing braces over the past several months and quite enjoy them. I've yet to get any Thurstons, but I have a pair of Faconnable braces that are absolutely wonderful. My others are Trafalgar (regular line, including an all leather pair) and a pair of Liberty braces. The Libertys are silk, but I'm not terribly impressed with their construction. The Thurstons I've examined are amazing.

 

[Will]

The short version of all anyone needs to know about braces.

Thurston boxcloth with white ends for winter and Thurston barathea with brown and black ends (depending on shoe color) for summer.

 

[josepidal]

When buying braces online, how do you make sure you're getting barathea and not the cheaper nylon?

 

[j]

Buy from a brand that doesn't use nylon. Though I don't think I've ever seen nylon braces.

 

[josepidal]

Sorry maybe it's not quite nylon and I have it mixed up. I had another discussion in mind where someone said the Thurston braces on STP right now are not barathea/boxcloth and from some lower quality line?

 

[grimslade]

They are not boxcloth. Perhaps rayon, as manton intimates above? Anyway, not boxcloth on STP.

 

[The False Prophet]

Would I be correct in thinking that one should still never show one's braces with Formal or Semi-Formal attire? Which will quite probably involve a waistcoat anyway, I'd imagine.

I'm thinking of the new Bond here, in particular.

 

[Stu]

Originally Posted by josepidal

Sorry maybe it's not quite nylon and I have it mixed up. I had another discussion in mind where someone said the Thurston braces on STP right now are not barathea/boxcloth and from some lower quality line?

The Thurston Web site, from which you can order, is pretty clear about which are which. If you buy from them you should not have a problem.

 

[Wet11383]

Does anyone know what the little extentions are called that I've seenthat effectiv elyleng then the rear tabs. I've tried searching for them to buy but cannot find them. If there's a proper name for them I could search for that would, no doubt, help. Or if anyone can provide a link that has information on them or sells them that would be great!

 

[Kira]

Deleted.