RULES for the tall and skinny man

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sebastian_Flyte, Aug 21, 2009.

  1. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    You can't really tell from this stock photo, but this Spiewak Meade Field Jacket in M is my go-to winter jacket (I've bought it twice). Long in body, long and slimmish in arms:

    [​IMG]

    +1 for freakin Burberry! I just got a medium Burberry sweater that's 19'' Pit to Pit (compare with 21''-22'' for Banana Republic and 22'' for J Crew medium), with long sleeves (like 27''!) and good length. Who knew?

    J. Crew - personally I've found that **not a single piece of clothing in their entire store** is meant for the tall skinny man. Chests are all on the large (i.e. American) range and sleeves relatively short. The legs in trousers and shorts are wide. Not a single thing fit me there.

    Zara: surprisingly, I also find that nothing here fits, either. Surprising because it's a European company. The clothes are slimmish, but not particularly long/tall. Maybe cause it's a Spanish company and that's the Spanish physique?

    Re: Incotex - the majority of the pairs I see sold on B&S are cotton, which I've already argued is playing with fire (unless you wanna go all Sartorialist blog and wear them rolled up). How can you tell which ones are slim cut (besides the measurements)?

    Nice Collective - very slim. The shorts work well on me. Not sure about the rest of their clothes.


    Jcrew has different cuts for the pants.

    'Classic' is a slim fit, they fit me pretty well, and have slim hems (not sure the actual width).

    'Regular' is a typical fit and its baggy, i dont recommend them. I bought one pair by accident and i use them for around the house.

    'Urban Slim' these are very slim cut.

    They offer long lengths, you can get a 32" inseam on a 30" waist.

    The sweaters are terrible, they're huge. I sized down to an XS and it still fit like a bag. I like the way RL polo sweaters fit.
     


  2. rexthedestroyer

    rexthedestroyer Senior member

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    I think a lot of you slim guys are young. When I was 18, I entered Marine Corps Boot Camp at 6' 135 lbs. Yup, I was a beenpole. I was able to put on an additional 15 lbs after I graduated. For the next 10 years, my weight fluctuated between a measely 155 to a solid 185. It wasn't until I hit 29 when my metabalism slowed down big time. For the past 2 years, I have been stuck at 205 lbs. I don't really mind the wieght much, but I do have a little "pouch" that I would like to tighten up or get rid of. I used to be the 6 pack man, but those days are gone now.

    From a guy who has stuggled with being under weight for many years, I now believe it is harder to lose a few pounds than to gain them.
     


  3. dr. locktopus

    dr. locktopus Senior member

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    I wouldn't count on that. I've been skinny all my life. Unless my metabolism hasn't slowed yet, I'm 6'4" and fluctuate between 155-165 lbs. Couple years ago I went to the Gym 3x a week and ate 3000 calories a day and my max was 175 lbs.

    We'll see how the next few years go!
     


  4. Bradford

    Bradford Current Events Moderator

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    Damn, I used to think I was tall and skinny, but at 6'3", 185 lbs now feel like a giant [​IMG]

    I guess 20-years ago when I graduated college at 135 lbs I could have fit the criteria for this thread.

    My only contribution is to agree with those who say that it is hard to find shirts with long enough sleeves, especially in those brands where sizing is just S, M, L, XL, etc.

    I'd also point that its wise to bulk up your look through layering. If you live somewhere that it gets cold, you can wear heavier fabrics and do things like wearing a v-neck sweater or an odd vest under your suit jacket or sport coat.

    Sportcoat and slacks also tends to be a good look for the tall and skinny.
     


  5. card_richelieu

    card_richelieu Senior member

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    Getting back on track...do you think we could have a running list of designer/brands that cater to us? Perhaps even add a page to the stylewiki - similar to the slim fit shirt page: http://styleforum.pbworks.com/Slim-fit+Shirts

    I took a crack, will add/edit as we go along.

    Suits
    -Armani Collezioni (some suits have no vents though)
    -Aquascutum (Ltd. Line)
    -Ben Sherman (though chest may be poofy)
    -Brooks Brothers 1818 Fitzgerald
    -Brooks Brothers Black Fleece (Runs on the shorter side, make sure to check measurements)
    -Burberry (Slim Fit Suit, Black Label, Prorsum)
    -Dior Homme (Hedi era, reports of A/W 09 slim as well)
    -Dolce & Gabbana (Martini line)
    -H&M (be careful, pants run a little tighter/smaller)
    -Hilton
    -Hugo Boss (Red Label)
    -J.Crew (Ludlow suit - Loro Piana fabric, Half-canvassed)
    -Jil Sander
    -John Varvatos (somewhat high button)
    -Gucci
    -Marc by Marc Jacobs
    -Marks & Spencer
    -Neil Barrett (also Black by Neil Barrett)
    -Paul Smith (London Byard, Travel Byard, Mainline suits)
    -Prada
    -Raf Simons
    -Ralph Lauren Black Label (Anthony)
    -Theory
    -Thom Browne (Runs on the shorter side, make sure to check measurements)
    -Valentino (can't remember name...)
    -Yves Saint Lauren (the Tom Ford era cuts still exist!)
    -Zara (be careful of chest puffing)

    MTM Suits
    -Indochino
    -Steven Aver
    -Thick as Thieves
    NOTE: No experience in ordering, from other SF members.

    Shirts
    -Band of Outsiders
    -Ben Sherman
    -Burberry (Made in Turkey slim fit)
    -Duncan Quinn
    -Dunhill
    -Eton (Slim Fit line, may need darts)
    -Gucci (Pre-Darted Gucci mainline)
    -Hackett (Slim fitting shirts, line name unknown)
    -H&M (darts recommended)
    -Hickey (darts recommended)
    -Hugo Boss (Slim Fit - come in S,M,L,XL)
    -John Varvatos
    -Kent Wang & Thick as Thieves (limited time collaboration)
    -Marc by Marc Jacobs
    -Marks & Spencer
    -Paul Smith (PS, and London)
    -Prada (Pre-Darted Prada mainline)
    -Ralph Lauren Black Label
    -Ted Baker
    -Theory
    -Thom Browne
    -Thomas Pink (Slim Fits, though sleeves tended to be shorter)
    -Uniqlo (not as accessible)
    -Versace (darts recommended)
    -Zara (only comes in S,M,L,XL)

    MTM Shirts
    -VMClothiers.com

    Outerwear / Jackets
    -Burberry (Raincoats, Prorsum, most Peacoats)
    -Dunhill
    -Pringle (Knitwear, Outerwear, Rainwear)


    I would add Diverso to the Shirts category. They are overpriced but the medium fits me about perfectly (15.5-36; 39 Chest)
     


  6. laphroaig

    laphroaig Senior member

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    That list is a bit broad, I'd use it only as a guide on what to look at. I've had hit and miss with some of the brands and no luck whatsoever with quite a few.

    I've been seeing lots of pictures of current season Gucci sport coats and suits in magazines etc. and they look like they have very narrow shoulders. I would also add massimo dutti to the list. Bought several jumpers on discount in medium and they are quite long and slim with narrow shoulers and long sleeves.

    The eat more comments are hillarious. Not sure about anyone else but I'm not interested in the least in putting on more weight or muscle mass.
     


  7. fuji

    fuji Senior member

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    Dolce & Gabbanna make the slim shirt I've tried. I bought one today and the cut is very slim and the shirt tail is fairly short. They are over priced at retail, but the fit is excellent.
     


  8. Sebastian_Flyte

    Sebastian_Flyte Senior member

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    6'2" and 145
    interesting stuff. What are thoughts on shorts. I suppose the tapered look to just above the knee is more flattering than the large-poceted cargos.


    Above the knee, over the knee, past the knee-- there's nothing particularly unique in this regard for the tall and skinny: whatever you prefer.

    The same rules/pointers for pants apply to shorts: go slim. Brands that make slim shorts are mostly the same ones who make slim pants. Theory and Nice Collective are two I like.
     


  9. Happydayz

    Happydayz Senior member

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    I'm also a tall and skinny guy, so I sympathize. But people here talking about purchasing expensive clothing while being 6 feet tall and weighing under 140 pounds need to get their priorities straight.

    Yes, fashion can help you look better. But you will get much better returns if you spend the time + money on a gym membership and food for a clean bulking diet.

    Someone wearing poor quality clothing on a 6 feet - 170 pound stature is going to look better than a 6 footer in a Zegna weighing in at 130.

    This is an excuse, pure and simple. When you take in more calories than you expend during the course of a day you WILL gain weight. Period. If you somehow do eat more calories than your daily expenditure and are not putting on weight than you need to go to your nearest medical school and start donating your body/time to science.

    Taking a protein shake is not the end all and be all. Taking a protein shake helps in conjunction with weight lifting + increasing your caloric intake.
     


  10. Sebastian_Flyte

    Sebastian_Flyte Senior member

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    I'm also a tall and skinny guy, so I sympathize. But people here talking about purchasing expensive clothing while being 6 feet tall and weighing under 140 pounds need to get their priorities straight.

    Yes, fashion can help you look better. But you will get much better returns if you spend the time + money on a gym membership and food for a clean bulking diet.

    Someone wearing poor quality clothing on a 6 feet - 170 pound stature is going to look better than a 6 footer in a Zegna weighing in at 130.

    This is an excuse, pure and simple. When you take in more calories than you expend during the course of a day you WILL gain weight. Period. If you somehow do eat more calories than your daily expenditure and are not putting on weight than you need to go to your nearest medical school and start donating your body/time to science.

    Taking a protein shake is not the end all and be all. Taking a protein shake helps in conjunction with weight lifting + increasing your caloric intake.


    Sorry but hearing this for the fifteenth time is getting extremely annoying. I know you mean well with your comment but it's of no help to anyone. 1) This is a clothing forum. 2) Yes, our bodies may change some day, whether through age, excess, or weight training, but like everyone else on Style Forum (and, um, the world), we need clothes that fit us NOW. 3) This hasn't seemed to occur to you but, speaking for myself, I don't want to change my weight. I suspect many of the guys who've chimed in here don't want to, either.
     


  11. Twisty

    Twisty Senior member

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    Updated list:

    Suits
    -Armani Collezioni (some suits have no vents though)
    -Aquascutum (Ltd. Line)
    -Ben Sherman (though chest may be poofy)
    -Brooks Brothers 1818 Fitzgerald
    -Brooks Brothers Black Fleece (Runs on the shorter side, make sure to check measurements)
    -Burberry (Slim Fit Suit, Black Label, Prorsum)
    -Dior Homme (Hedi era, reports of A/W 09 slim as well)
    -Dolce & Gabbana (Martini line)
    -H&M (be careful, pants run a little tighter/smaller)
    -Hilton
    -Hugo Boss (Red Label)
    -J.Crew (Ludlow suit - Loro Piana fabric, Half-canvassed)
    -Jil Sander
    -John Varvatos (somewhat high button)
    -Gucci
    -Marc by Marc Jacobs
    -Marks & Spencer
    -Neil Barrett (also Black by Neil Barrett)
    -Paul Smith (London Byard, Travel Byard, Mainline suits)
    -Prada
    -Raf Simons
    -Ralph Lauren Black Label (Anthony)
    -Theory
    -Thom Browne (Runs on the shorter side, make sure to check measurements)
    -Valentino (can't remember name...)
    -Yves Saint Lauren (the Tom Ford era cuts still exist!)
    -Zara (be careful of chest puffing)

    MTM Suits
    -Indochino
    -Steven Aver
    -Thick as Thieves
    NOTE: No experience in ordering, from other SF members.

    Shirts
    -Band of Outsiders
    -Ben Sherman
    -Burberry (Made in Turkey slim fit)
    -Diverso
    -Dolce & Gabbana (Sleeves tend to run shorter)
    -Duncan Quinn
    -Dunhill
    -Eton (Slim Fit line, may need darts)
    -Gucci (Pre-Darted Gucci mainline)
    -Hackett (Slim fitting shirts, line name unknown)
    -H&M (darts recommended)
    -Hickey (darts recommended)
    -Hugo Boss (Slim Fit - come in S,M,L,XL)
    -John Varvatos
    -Kent Wang & Thick as Thieves (limited time collaboration)
    -Marc by Marc Jacobs
    -Marks & Spencer
    -Paul Smith (PS, and London)
    -Prada (Pre-Darted Prada mainline)
    -Ralph Lauren Black Label
    -Ted Baker
    -Theory
    -Thom Browne
    -Thomas Pink (Slim Fits, though sleeves tended to be shorter)
    -Uniqlo (not as accessible)
    -Versace (darts recommended)
    -Zara (only comes in S,M,L,XL)

    MTM Shirts
    -VMClothiers.com

    Outerwear / Jackets
    -Burberry (Raincoats, Prorsum, most Peacoats)
    -Dunhill
    -Pringle (Knitwear, Outerwear, Rainwear)
     


  12. Lel

    Lel Senior member

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    I'm also a tall and skinny guy, so I sympathize. But people here talking about purchasing expensive clothing while being 6 feet tall and weighing under 140 pounds need to get their priorities straight.

    Yes, fashion can help you look better. But you will get much better returns if you spend the time + money on a gym membership and food for a clean bulking diet.

    Someone wearing poor quality clothing on a 6 feet - 170 pound stature is going to look better than a 6 footer in a Zegna weighing in at 130.



    This is an excuse, pure and simple. When you take in more calories than you expend during the course of a day you WILL gain weight. Period. If you somehow do eat more calories than your daily expenditure and are not putting on weight than you need to go to your nearest medical school and start donating your body/time to science.

    Taking a protein shake is not the end all and be all. Taking a protein shake helps in conjunction with weight lifting + increasing your caloric intake.


    Some people are happy with their weight/size, as crazy as it sounds not everyone shares the same physical ideals as yourself. Blasphemy, I know.
     


  13. Twisty

    Twisty Senior member

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    I'm also a tall and skinny guy, so I sympathize. But people here talking about purchasing expensive clothing while being 6 feet tall and weighing under 140 pounds need to get their priorities straight.

    Yes, fashion can help you look better. But you will get much better returns if you spend the time + money on a gym membership and food for a clean bulking diet.

    Someone wearing poor quality clothing on a 6 feet - 170 pound stature is going to look better than a 6 footer in a Zegna weighing in at 130.


    Honestly, I am thrilled that I am 6ft, 140lbs.

    Though I don't routinely work out, I am lean and have good shape. So yes, spending time in gym would probably get me slightly better tone, but I don't want more weight.

    Regarding the 6ft + 170 vs. 6ft +130, I'd say both men will look handsome and good. To say the 170-pounder will look better is naive and dumb based on weight alone. I never thought a beer gut would look better...
     


  14. Twisty

    Twisty Senior member

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    Some people are happy with their weight/size, as crazy as it sounds not everyone shares the same physical ideals as yourself. Blasphemy, I know.

    Its a never ending battle...

    Being told to eat a burger sucks, but at least we have the option. I'd hate to be on the opposite end, trying to loose weight or tone-up. F-that.
     


  15. splattered

    splattered Senior member

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    I haven't gone through this whole thread but what i've read is interesting... my whole life i have been pretty skinny. I was 4'11 until i was 17 and then i shot up that summer and ended up being 6' and now fluctuate around 155-165lbs.

    I'm in decent shape for being thin and have decent tone etc... i'm not complaining about that, never have. My problem has always been my legs below the knee... more so because i was born with a birth defect so it makes my calves very skinny by default. They have always been my one main pain point in my life.

    I used to wear baggier jeans to try to hide it but every time the wind blew they'd look really funny and i felt like a dumbass. Eventually wore slimmer jeans... found a happy medium in a slight bootcut. I'm afraid to try slimmer straight legs because i'm worried it would accentuate it TOO much. Dunno.

    I've been wanting to find slimmer straight leg jeans so i can wear boots lately, but im not sure what brand/cut would work best on me yet.
     


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