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RULES for the tall and skinny man

The Thin Man

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Since I have yet to find affordable MTM sweaters I only ever wear shirts underneath pullovers. There's just nothing i can do with 29 inch sleeves (38,5 inch if you measure traditionally).


For what it's worth, Louise Irvine MTM knitwear is very affordable, if you're interested in shetland sweaters: http://www.shetland-handknits.co.uk/classic.html

I believe they can make any of their styles using any of the Spindrift yarn colors: http://www.simplyshetland.net/Jamieson-Spindrift.html
 
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knoll45

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I think your question is both asked and answered, but here goes: avoid the extremes on either end. Go for a close fit, but not a tight fit. Nothing you wear is going to hide the fact that your physique resembles that of a reanimated skeleton -- but a too-tight fit will draw attention to it, and a too-baggy fit will make you look clownish and ridiculous. This is going to be one of those Goldilocks types of things: you'll probably need to try out a couple varieties of fit until you settle on one that flatters you as best it can.

I'm not going to tell you to "go eat a sandwich," as seems to be the typical response to questions like these. But if a dude is anywhere in the vicinity of 6'3 and 140lbs, he needs to realize that he's frighteningly skinny, and that no shirt fit is going to disguise it. There are certain body types that simply resist being flattered by clothing, and too-skinny is one of the trickier physiques in this regard.

6'3" and 140 lbs is underweight, please refrain from wearing slim-fitting styles for obvious reasons.
 

TheloniusDrunk

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Just found this thread. I'm 6'4" and 170 lbs (196cm, 74.5 kg), and I'm going to order my first shirt from tailorstor.com, I'll be sure to let everyone know how it goes.

Also, I'm one of your typical broke college kids, and I was going to order 2 or 3 shirts from Lands End in their slim-fit tall line, does anyone have any experience with them?
 

jkoll

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This thread is so great, and really has got me started on SF.
I am 6'1", 165lbs. I am switching over my wardrobe from ill fitting band t-shirts and hoodies... so far I am working on the basics. I got a pair of apc ns (28), which are breaking in great. Been buying h&m medium t-shirts, house brand (not divided), which fit excellent. Next on the list is shoes, slim jims, shirts/knits/jackets. I have yet to find button up shirts that fit well without tucking in, which is sounding like tailoring is the solution.

As for business casual, brooks brothers milano (31) fit like a dream. And for dress shirts, I've been liking varvatos 'slim fit', calibrate 'slim fit', and hugo boss black 'slim fit'. Although my work attire is still a work in progress as well.. Here are the slim fit brands listed on Nordstrom:

Designer
Chest
Waist
HUGO
45.7”
41.7”
Theory
45.3”
42.8”
John Varvatos 'Slim fit'
45”
41.4”
Boss Black 'Slim fit'
45”
40.9”
Eton 'Slim fit'
45”
40.5”
Calibrate 'Slim fit'
43.3”
41”
Thomas Pink 'Super Slim Fit'
43.3”
39.4”
Hugo 'Slim Fit'
43”
39.4”



Also, I was compiling a list of all the designers listed amongst this thread, everything except suits. Might as well share it =)


Designer
Type
Line
Size
Pringle​
knits & outerwear​

Dunill​
outerwear​

Hackett​
shirts​

Nice collective​
shirts​

Diverso​
shirts​
Medium: (15.5/36, 39 chest)
G Star​
shirts​
[Long arms, short torso]
John Smedly​
sweaters​

Costume National​
sweaters​

Prada Sport​
sweaters​

Burberry​
sweaters & outerwear​
Prorsum sweater​

All Saints​
sweaters, t-shirts, jackets​

Lands End​
turtleneck​
Medium
Dior Homme​
Hedi / 19cms​

Thick as thieves​
limited time collacbration​

Aquascutum​
LTD​

Hugo Boss​
Slim fit​

Varvatos​
Slim fit​

Raf Simmons​
predarted mainline gucci​

Theory​

Gucci​

Band Of Outsiders​

H&M​
 
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robbo101

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Great thread.

I'm 5'11" 170lbs. I don't think weight tells the whole story. I'm fairly skinny but have really dense muscle mass which leads me to have a more normal weight despite looking closer to 150-155lbs.

Anyways I wanted to know if anyone had some good tips for layering clothes to make you look bulkier without looking as though your trying to cover up your skinniness. Is this even possible?
 

Snedley

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Question for you really thin guys, (e.g. 6" 3 and 140 lbs):

When getting custom shirts, what type of fit do you go for? I am 6" 0 and 133 lbs, but I find that fitted shirts would make me look like a stick, but then baggier shirts would look baggier... how do you find a balance? is it even possible?
You're going to have to wait until your bone structure and weight catches up to your height. I wouldn't invest too much in clothes until you mature a bit.
 

thinman

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Great thread.

I'm 5'11" 170lbs. I don't think weight tells the whole story. I'm fairly skinny but have really dense muscle mass which leads me to have a more normal weight despite looking closer to 150-155lbs.

Anyways I wanted to know if anyone had some good tips for layering clothes to make you look bulkier without looking as though your trying to cover up your skinniness. Is this even possible?


There's nothing difficult about layering and it can add visual bulk. In winter, I frequently wear a dress shirt, sweater vest and jacket for 3 layers. When I'm outside, an overcoat gives me a fourth layer, but covers the others. Layer gets harder in other seasons, but cotton vests can work during Spring/Fall without getting too warm. Look in fashion mags and on blogs to see examples you can adapt to your own look.

One or two of my jackets are cut just slightly larger to accommodate layers underneath.
 
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Sebastian_Flyte

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Anyways I wanted to know if anyone had some good tips for layering clothes to make you look bulkier without looking as though your trying to cover up your skinniness. Is this even possible?


The point of many/most clothes is to mask or conceal the things in our bodies that don't look great. Hence jackets and neckties for big bellies, etc.

If you have a long and skinny neck, WEAR SHIRTS WITH COLLARS.

For shorts, wear ones that fall just below the knee if that's an area that doesn't look so hot. NOT ******* capris-- there's some brands that sell shorts like this, or just cut your own pants off there.

T shirt plus an unbuttoned, short-sleeved collared button-down shirt is a solid casual look for "concealing" skinniness-- hides skinny upper arms and chest, and the open shirt gives you more volume in the upper body and arms.

FIT is really the most important thing-- getting clothes that fit properly will mute the effect of overly skinny bodies, and hopefully transform skinny into suavely slender.
 

buzzron

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I'm not exactly skinny at 6'2" but I make sure not to wear too loose or too skinny clothes, my suits have always been tapered and 've never really been a fan of the skinny revolution.
 

skinny

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I'm 6'1'', 140 lbs. I'm creating this niche thread as a sort of home base for the members of our forum who are around my height and weight. I see there are a good number of us from reading this thread. Some of this advice is spread around the forum, but it would be nice to have it all in one place, both for ourselves and future lanky freaks who join the forum in frustration. I have created threads for 38L and 36L suits (see my sig). But this thread is a place for more general style advice on clothing our emaciated bodies. Most of this applies to skinny dudes of any height, but these problems are more acute for the tall. Hopefully some of this helps-- please add any info you have for the good of your tall, skinny brothers
smile.gif
Rule #1: get custom shirts. Little will fit you off the rack. I, for one, have been extremely happy with Vmclothiers.com, but there are many other options. Search SF. Rule #2: pants can be tapered below the knee for $30 Funny how I didn't learn this till the age of 27. The beanpole man can usually find pants that fit passably in the waist and thighs-- it's his tiny calves that create his dilemma. Well, dilemma no more: your tailor can easily taper pants below the knee. Experiment with different hem (i.e. pant leg opening widths). I go with 7.75'' or 8'', myself. To go full GQ, go even smaller. Rule #3: 100% wool pants. Cotton is your sworn enemy! By cotton, I mean khakis, chinos, etc. Not jeans, which is a different topic. Since our legs are basically long sticks, most cottons and wool blend pants will branch off from our bodies and create odd angles on our legs, especially under the knee. Ever wonder why khakis look like utter **** on you? This is why. Even slim-cut and/or tapered. Since cotton and blend fabrics form edges easily and our legs are not filling them out, fabric pops away from the knee, the hem gets caught in shoelaces easily and starts bending and folding. 100% wool, however, drapes softly-- straight down-- and provides the most flattering look for us, especially in the lower leg and where the pants meet the shoes. 98% 2% Lycra is preeettty good still, but not as good as 100% wool; the fabric is decent but a bit too stiff. One exception I know to this general rule is 75% Tencel 25% cotton found in some brands (Marc by Marc Jacobs is one), which hangs more like wool. Needless to say, get slim-cut 100% wool pants. Rule #4: 100% wool jackets. Cotton is, again, your enemy! The same basic rule applies to suit and sport jackets. Cotton clothes are meant to be filled in by the body, and when not filled out, angle away from the body. So a cotton jacket, even in your size, will tend to flare out from your waist. 100% wool will fall down, not stick out. Rule #5: double-vented jackets work best Single vented on the ultra thin man is playing with fire-- if the jacket's unbuttoned or just normally sized on you, there's a danger that the single vent will flare out on you, creating an extremely bad silhouette. A double-vent will fall down no matter how little your pathetic chest is filling in the jacket
wink.gif
That said, if the jacket actually fits you properly, single vent is fine. What about Dior Homme, you ask? The reason single vent works on Dior is (I assume) because the jacket is sized/cut tighter in the chest and waist than most other brands and because the jacket is short (i.e. does not cover your entire rear), it has less tendency to flare. A ventless jacket has a similar problem to single vent-- the bottom of your jacket may bell out when unbuttoned if made from cotton. Nudie Slim Jims The best cut jeans for tall skinny man. Fits right in the upper thigh but isn't flamboyantly low-rise or tight in the crotch. Slim, but masculine. Fits right, but doesn't look like "skinny jeans." Sweaters: finally, some good news A medium sweater in almost every American brand is cut for what's considered the "average" male size: a 40R. The good news for us is that since sweater fabric is soft and drapes differently from a suit jacket, medium sweaters from most brands work well even for men who wear 38 and 36 chest suits. Some brands that work For pants: Theory, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marks & Spencer (the tall skinny guy's best friend), H&M, Kenneth Cole, Ted Baker... Know any others? Other stuff: most Swedish brands (Nudie, Acne, H&M, etc) are cut for us, since Swedes are tall and not fat. German brands: Adidas, Puma, Hugo Boss... again, because we resemble German build more than American (which is shorter and wider). That's a start-- chime in, fellow Ichabod Cranes.

I've been reading this forum, and this thread in particular. This is my first SF post though ! I'm not exactly tall @ 5'10", but skinny @ 130lbs. Thin frame, etc. Nothing that hasn't been said or discussed already. I agree with most of your points (as well as others made in this useful thread), except I'm on the fence and not sure about "Rule #2" above r.e. tapered pants. Seems to me that tapered pants emphasize the nature of our skinny legs even more, no? Wouldn't a straight cut be more forgiving? I'm not talking super-tapered/skinny look, but seems a tapered pant just highlights the skinny leg and makes it look longer too. I'm just getting started into the "game" of buying more fitted clothes, and while salespeople like suits on me that have the tapered leg, for me it looks strange. Maybe not used to it? Not sure. I've also read some other articles on the Internet (askmen.com, etc.) that say to stay away from a tapered pant if skinny.
 

skinny

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I'm 6'1'', 140 lbs. I'm creating this niche thread as a sort of home base for the members of our forum who are around my height and weight. I see there are a good number of us from reading this thread. Some of this advice is spread around the forum, but it would be nice to have it all in one place, both for ourselves and future lanky freaks who join the forum in frustration. I have created threads for 38L and 36L suits (see my sig). But this thread is a place for more general style advice on clothing our emaciated bodies. Most of this applies to skinny dudes of any height, but these problems are more acute for the tall. Hopefully some of this helps-- please add any info you have for the good of your tall, skinny brothers
smile.gif
Rule #1: get custom shirts. Little will fit you off the rack. I, for one, have been extremely happy with Vmclothiers.com, but there are many other options. Search SF. Rule #2: pants can be tapered below the knee for $30 Funny how I didn't learn this till the age of 27. The beanpole man can usually find pants that fit passably in the waist and thighs-- it's his tiny calves that create his dilemma. Well, dilemma no more: your tailor can easily taper pants below the knee. Experiment with different hem (i.e. pant leg opening widths). I go with 7.75'' or 8'', myself. To go full GQ, go even smaller.

I'm new to SF (1st post!) but have been reading around as I'm slowly getting into buying more fitted/appropriate clothes for my body (5'10" - 132lbs). I'm most curious about rule #2 above, r.e. tapered pants. I've read mixed things on this (see this article that says to go for straight and not tapered anything - http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip/32_fashion_advice.html), and when I go to try suit pants on, the sales people are all complementary r.e. the tapered look (but can I trust them?) and I'm more self-conscious and it seems they make the legs seem even skinnier and longer. Perhaps this is because I'm not used to wearing clothes that look right, and have been used to the wrong thing. But then what about that article with the link I posted? Interesting thread with many good points!
 

skinny

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I'm new to SF (1st post!) but have been reading around as I'm slowly getting into buying more fitted/appropriate clothes for my body (5'10" - 132lbs). I'm most curious about rule #2 above, r.e. tapered pants. I've read mixed things on this (see this article that says to go for straight and not tapered anything - http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip/32_fashion_advice.html), and when I go to try suit pants on, the sales people are all complementary r.e. the tapered look (but can I trust them?) and I'm more self-conscious and it seems they make the legs seem even skinnier and longer. Perhaps this is because I'm not used to wearing clothes that look right, and have been used to the wrong thing. But then what about that article with the link I posted? Interesting thread with many good points!
 

Jackie Treehorn

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I'm not exactly skinny at 6'2" but I make sure not to wear too loose or too skinny clothes, my suits have always been tapered and 've never really been a fan of the skinny revolution.


It seems that the fashion world is pivoting away from the skintight look, which is a welcome sight. Extremely close-cut clothing looks good on basically nobody, and, perhaps least of all, the tall and skinny man.
 

skinny

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It seems that the fashion world is pivoting away from the skintight look, which is a welcome sight. Extremely close-cut clothing looks good on basically nobody, and, perhaps least of all, the tall and skinny man.


Are you talking about casual clothes like skinny jeans/stretch shirts or suits/formal clothing? Not sure about the latter (or the former if I think about it), as most suits I'm seeing are pretty slim. Not sure I know of a skinny suit. Examples to look at?
 

Sebastian_Flyte

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I'm new to SF (1st post!) but have been reading around as I'm slowly getting into buying more fitted/appropriate clothes for my body (5'10" - 132lbs). I'm most curious about rule #2 above, r.e. tapered pants. I've read mixed things on this (see this article that says to go for straight and not tapered anything - http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip/32_fashion_advice.html), and when I go to try suit pants on, the sales people are all complementary r.e. the tapered look (but can I trust them?) and I'm more self-conscious and it seems they make the legs seem even skinnier and longer. Perhaps this is because I'm not used to wearing clothes that look right, and have been used to the wrong thing. But then what about that article with the link I posted? Interesting thread with many good points!


The trick is to adjust clothes so they fit and hang naturally-- not too tight or too loose.

Clothes are cut for typically proportioned men, so I personally often taper the pants below the knee *a bit*. There is no need to go overboard-- usually you tell your tailor "taper the bottom so that the hem is X inches". Once you find a measurement for you, you can have all your pants tapered to that measurement.
 

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