Rubinacci shoulder

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by CrimsonSox, Jun 20, 2013.

  1. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    I was looking at this picture of a beautiful navy suit, worn by Luca Rubinacci. The shoulder looks very elegant in my eyes. The surprise is that it seems a bit structured, while the Neapolitans have a reputation for a more sloping shoulder. I'm not saying that it's not a natural shoulder, just that it has a nice line to it. How would you describe the shoulder to a tailor if you wanted something similar?

    Btw, two other surprises are that the jacket is a 2 button, instead of the more common 3 roll 2 seen in Naples, and it has besom and not patch or flap pockets.

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    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
  2. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I would guess that shoulder has little (if any) padding and structure. Looks to me like Luca has naturally squarer shoulders, and the jacket is cut to match that line precisely. The collar also looks to be cut slightly low, emphasizing the squarer line of the shoulder. The angles at which a suit is cut can dictate a lot about how it looks.
     
  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    1) Supposedly Luca has his stuff made in the Milan branch which looks more structured than that made by the Naples branch.

    2) I find it easiest to show the tailor a picture of what is desired.
     
  5. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    I'd take pictures and use them to help me describe what I want. Sometimes, words can only take you so far
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2013
  6. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    That's good advice, thanks. It sounds like the Milan branch of Rubinacci can offer the best of both worlds, in my view -- Milanese formality and structure but with Neapolitan softness and comfort.

    I was most impressed by this photo: the collar of the jacket remains securely against the collar of the shirt, even in motion. It reminds me of how Fred Astaire is said to have danced during his fittings at A&S, and stopped mid-motion to make sure the collar wasn't gaping.

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    Source: http://www.marianorubinacci.net/club/?p=849
     
  7. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    You have right!
    The Rubinacci's tailor in Milan was trained with Caraceni.
     

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