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Roy's Jeans - Single Man Made

commodorewheeler

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Not being a smart-ass, you couldn't shrink and hem the RS off the ground?

To me, jean legs look too short if the hem is off the ground. They need at least a break in the leg even if you're not going to stack, and any kind of break is going to make the leg long enough to drag the hem on the ground if the leg opening is too big for your shoes.
 

kiya

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Roy's Jeans & The Cone Mills Video - Straight & Narrow Fits

Earlier this year we took a trip to Greensboro (North Carolina) with Roy Slaper to experience the production process of a new denim that was designed from the ground up by Roy himself. We took Kellen Dengler, our videographer from NYC, with us to shoot the process, we felt it wasn't fair to keep it under wraps. At the oldest denim mill in the world, this is the story of Roy's new fabric.
This video was shot in 1080p High Definition, it's best viewed in full-screen HD mode with the volume turned way up.

http://vimeo.com/selfedge/selfedgeingreensboro


Roy is back with a restock of the release that sold out in seconds in March. This long overdue set of jeans is made up of a custom fabric from Cone Mills made exactly to Roy's specs. This is the first time in over three decades that Cone has produced a loomstate unsanforized fabric for anybody, and therefore we feel that this is history in the making.

The denim is a loomstate unsanforized indigo denim that clocks in at 14.5oz per square yard in it's raw state. The denim is made of American cotton and is 100% pure indigo dyed in the darkest shade Cone produces.
Technically, the construction of the denim.. the warp has multiple sized (engineered) slub yarns and the weft has large rough spun (non-engineered) yarn. It weighs 14.5 in loomstate and approximately 16.25oz after a hot water soak. Roy broke three of his key machines on this run and had to improve them to deal with the heavier denim.
The fabric hand is smooth and tight. Roy had Cone pack as many picks per inch (46 in 6.4 gauge yarn) as could be done without the loom blowing out and therefore achieved the tight weave he was after. There is a sound to the denim, after its been worn a few weeks - when you rustle it, that's somewhere between suede and oil cloth. This is tough fabric.
The look is streaky and it appears grey-ish at first. After rinsing and a few weeks of wear, it starts to change character as the white hairs formed by the fill yarns wear off leaving the streakiness to mellow and the shade to become a more rich, classic indigo.

The jeans themselves come in two fits, both a slim and a straight leg. Both silhouettes are slightly modified from past iterations of Roy's straight and slim fits.

With the RS04 and RN04 a few changes have been made from past models. Never content with just "doing another run", Roy has improved and tweaked everything surrounding the production of these jeans. The stitching of the body is even finer and more accurate and we love the fully lined back pockets and coin pocket. The rear pocket hems now have a hand-done welt in them (slightly thicker than the last run), mimicking the vintage style belt-loops found on many of the best Japanese brands. Last but not least the back pockets have been slightly reduced in size from past versions.

Jeans from Roy don't come often and we can't keep them in stock as long as we'd like, so if you've been waiting for a pair, now is the time.

Both of these models will be released at noon (local time) on Saturday June 2nd at all three Self Edge stores. These will also be available via our online store at 10am (PDT) on June 2nd.

Roy's Jeans at Self Edge Online

Roy Jean RS04 - Cone Project - Straight Leg



Roy Jean RN04 - Cone Project - Narrow Leg









 

kiya

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The Roy Nihon Menpu Chambray Shirt

Roy's first production shirt is a special one. The shirt starts with a blank canvas of Nihon Menpu's 6oz selvedge chambray combined with dead-stock fish-eye buttons from almost 100 years ago, those are the simple parts. The shirt is cut and sewn by Roy Slaper using vintage Singer and Union Special machines with a few hidden details that we'd rather not spill here. Best to see this shirt in person and discover all its beauty slowly.


One of the details we personally love is the busted selvedge seam up the back of the shirt, over time you'll have jean-like train tracks running up your back. Also, Roy has this wild machine that's able to do a stitch that melts our minds, it's meant to be an invisible hemming machine but to us it looks like a crazy fabric perforator. He's used this machine to hem the front placket of the shirt which also hides the button backs from your body when the shirt is worn.


This Roy shirt will go on sale at all Self Edge stores at noon (local time) on Saturday, September 22nd. The shirt will also go on sale at 2pm (PST) the same day in our online store. This shirt will not be remade or restocked, this is an edition of 45 shirts.

Check the online store for a full spec list on the shirt, measurements, hi-res photos, and more.

Shop Roy Online
















 

kiya

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Roy Unsanforized Duck 5-Pocket Jeans

Never a dull moment with Roy Slaper. The man lives for finding excitement in the most minute details of a garment. With this new release he set out to made a 5-pocket jean out of an unsanforized duck canvas fabric. This is a similar material to what he's used in the past except this time the fabric is unsanforized and therefore will shrink like an unsanforized denim jean. We believe this is the first time in over 75 years that anybody has worked with an unsanforized duck. You may wonder as to why would you want your duck canvas pant to be unsanforized? Because it will not only fit better but it will also age better over time because the fabric hasn't gone through the sanforization process which flattens and (in our opinion) destroys a lot of the character contained within the fabric.

In addition to the beautiful fabric the jean comes with belt loops made on a 1920's Union Special beltloop making machine, so the loops are a narrow width, like how they used to be in the early 20th century. The pocket bags are made of a heavy 9oz greige cotton fabric and all the pockets (including the coin pocket) are full lined with the same fabric. He's done something very unique with the way the inseam is stitched, the selvedge ID is folded over to one side and single needle stitched down the leg. The high-wear point of the front pockets is lined with duck and detailed in a very unique way. Also, this is the first pant Roy has done where many points are triple-needle stitched for durability. There are quite a few more details to list, but those are best found by the owner.

These will be available for sale at all three Self Edge stores on Saturday December 22 at noon (local time) and at 10am (PST) the same day via the online store. Check the online store for hi-res photos, spec list, measurements, and more.

Shop Roy Online!







 
Last edited:

kiya

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The Roy SF01 - Special Fit Jeans

Roy has taken it upon himself to rework the details in his standard 5-pocket jean model. Nearly every aspect of the jean has been tweaked including the fit.
The belt loops are now thinner and made on a 1920's Union Special belt loop making machine, the leather patch design is different and on a smaller patch, and even the front pocket openings are shaped differently. We personally love the bump on the rear pocket welts which resemble the exaggerated bump on the belt loops from many Japanese brands.
Roy is calling this the "special fit", it is in between a straight and a slim with a completely new upper block which Roy says is the best fitting jean he's made thus far.


This long overdue set of jeans is made up of a custom fabric from Cone Mills made exactly to Roy's specs. This is the first time in over three decades that Cone has produced a loomstate unsanforized fabric for anybody.

The denim is a loomstate unsanforized indigo denim that clocks in at 14.5oz per square yard in it's raw state. The denim is made of American cotton and is 100% pure indigo dyed in the darkest shade Cone produces.
Technically, the construction of the denim.. the warp has multiple sized (engineered) slub yarns and the weft has large rough spun (non-engineered) yarn. It weighs 14.5 in loomstate and approximately 16.25oz after a hot water soak.
The fabric hand is smooth and tight. Roy had Cone pack as many picks per inch (46 in 6.4 gauge yarn) as could be done without the loom blowing out and therefore achieved the tight weave he was after. There is a sound to the denim, after its been worn a few weeks - when you rustle it, that's somewhere between suede and oil cloth. This is tough fabric.
The look is streaky and it appears grey-ish at first. After rinsing and a few weeks of wear, it starts to change character as the white hairs formed by the fill yarns wear off leaving the streakiness to mellow and the shade to become a more rich, classic indigo.

Jeans from Roy don't come often and we can't keep them in stock as long as we'd like, so if you've been waiting for a pair, now is the time.

Check the product pages in our online store for more photos, measurements, and far far more specifications than you can possibly need for a pair of jeans.

The Roy SF01 Jean will be available at all Self Edge stores at noon (local time) on Saturday March 2nd and in our online store at 10am (PST) the same day.

Roy's Jeans at Self Edge Online







 

scottcw

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Which location has the size 36 of the new style?
 

kiya

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Roy Buck-Tite Slim Tapered Jeans

After years of producing jeans Roy has now made his first slim tapered cut.

Roy has taken it upon himself to rework the details in his standard 5-pocket jean model. Nearly every aspect of the jean has been tweaked similar to the SF01 jean which was released earlier this year.
The belt loops are now thinner and made on a 1920's Union Special belt loop making machine, the leather patch design is different and on a smaller patch, and even the front pocket openings are shaped differently. We personally love the bump on the rear pocket welts which resemble the exaggerated bump on the belt loops from many Japanese brands.
Roy is calling this the "Buck-Tite", it is a true slim tapered jean.

This long overdue set of jeans is made up of a custom fabric from Cone Mills made exactly to Roy's specs. This is the first time in over three decades that Cone has produced a loomstate unsanforized fabric for anybody.

The denim is a loomstate unsanforized indigo denim that clocks in at 14.5oz per square yard in it's raw state. The denim is made of American cotton and is 100% pure indigo dyed in the darkest shade Cone produces.
Technically, the construction of the denim.. the warp has multiple sized (engineered) slub yarns and the weft has large rough spun (non-engineered) yarn. It weighs 14.5 in loomstate and approximately 16.25oz after a hot water soak.
The fabric hand is smooth and tight. Roy had Cone pack as many picks per inch (46 in 6.4 gauge yarn) as could be done without the loom blowing out and therefore achieved the tight weave he was after. There is a sound to the denim, after its been worn a few weeks - when you rustle it, that's somewhere between suede and oil cloth. This is tough fabric.
The look is streaky and it appears grey-ish at first. After rinsing and a few weeks of wear, it starts to change character as the white hairs formed by the fill yarns wear off leaving the streakiness to mellow and the shade to become a more rich, classic indigo.

Jeans from Roy don't come often and we can't keep them in stock as long as we'd like, so if you've been waiting for a pair, now is the time.

Check the product pages in our online store for more photos, measurements, and far far more specifications than you can possibly need for a pair of jeans.

The Roy Buck-Tite Jean will be available at all Self Edge stores at noon (local time) on Saturday May 11 and in our online store at 11am (PDT) the same day.

Roy's Jeans at Self Edge Online







 

Dino19

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Hi Kiya,

Can you state what's the model's usual size or what size is the model wearing? As such, may be one can judge better on the fit.

Just a suggestion as I think this would help online buyers.
 

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