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Row of stitching by lapel-roll


Senior Member
Apr 26, 2008
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What is the purpose of the stitching underneath the lapel, exactly at the roll or fold of the lapel. On one of my suits who i thought was fully fused i today noticed that it had visible dimples in a double row underneath the lapel, almost exactly where the lapels fold.
Is this really padstitching and my suit has canvassed lapels and fused body, or this this stitching serve any other purpose - like connecting the chestpiece to the lapels? Is this what someone called internal stitching?

I have some other suits that have the real type of what i call padstitching, lots of dimples on the underside of the lapel, and this is a similar stitching but there's just one row following the fold of the lapel


Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Aug 25, 2008
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All fused suits, regardless of what you may have heard elsewhere, have what we call a "floating chest piece". It is affixed to the garment in the armhole and along the roll line. All suits (fused and canvas) have a piece of tape sewn along the roll line which is held short- some fabric has been drawn up along this tape to keep the roll line tight to the chest- we call this the bridle tape. In fused suits, this bridle tape serves a double purpose- to draw the roll line short, and to hold the chest piece to the front; what you are seeing is the two lines of blind stitching which holds the bridle tape and chest piece to the front.


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