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Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montauk, Mar 13, 2013.

  1. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^ wow. more insults and a threat. classy post, montauk. thanks for keeping this off topic.
     
  2. haganah

    haganah Senior member

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    The videos are quite interesting. Maybe enjoy what's been posted and wait to see what the final outcome is?
     
  3. Montauk

    Montauk Senior member

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    With all due respect, these videos ARE the topic of this thread.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013
  4. Mr. Claymore

    Mr. Claymore Senior member

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    So many panties in a twist. I hope you are all able to interact with people more civilly in "real life."




    I don't know that "relishing" to meet people can really be construed as a threat. If you feel threatened by him wanting to meet you, that might be your own problem. I'd also suggest, that reposing all of the current videos showing Rory Duffy actually tailoring, is some what germane to a thread (I guess threak at this point) dedicated to Rory Duffy's....tailoring.....


    On the whole, however, I can't comprehend why we are arguing and not just enjoying the videos that detail the TAILORING part of the bespoke process that we almost never get to see.
     
  5. BAO1

    BAO1 Member

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    Gentlemen - please! Enough!

    No more snide insinuation, no more conjecture, no more marketing. Let the vids speak for themselves to the the extent that they can - i.e. they are in no way a fair representation of a finished product fit to a person but an interesting and rare insight into an intricate process of how such products are made from scratch.

    I'll be at the after party, it'll be one of my suits that Rory will be doing the finishing fit for. You can all see it for yourselves and make your own conclusions based on that. Let's leave this thread be until pictures from the suit being worn are ready.

    And to allay fears of my mental incapacity to operate cameras someone else will take all the pictures...

    C'mon guys, it's clothes...
     
  6. KyleT

    KyleT New Member

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    When I was a boy someone I consider wise once told me, "If you have nothing good to say, keep your mouth shut."

    I look forward to the Drafting part of the video series and pictures of Mr. Rory Duffy's suits.
    I myself am commissioning an old master tailor, twisting an arm (or two) to get him out of retirement, lost in the sands of time, forgotten in the age of modern industry, to make me a bespoke garment.

    These videos would fit in very nicely with my plans...... [​IMG]
     
  7. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Final read through all your posts and thought it best to upload some pics.
    These are of a client who purchased my Handcrafted suits, made solely by me in house.
    I did everything from cutting the pattern and sewing in every stitch including the buttonholes.
    Sadly the finisher I trained move to Holland to live with her boyfriend so its just me now.
    In the past few weeks two new apprentices have joined the ranks to train in Coat making and Trouser making respectfully.
    They are not as of yet ready to work on clients garments, still at the sample stage.

    Would like to decide this pics to Taxgenuis and Archetypal_yuppie with the greatest respect, this is your backyard and I have yet
    to prove my worth and be worthy of your respect. I condone all your calls for a picture on a clients back, I hope you will be kind in your
    judgement as suits are made from cloth not cut from stone.

    This a relatively light to medium weight cloth at 10oz spun from luxury fine wool and cashmere from Harrisons of Edinburgh, the price was 5k including taxes and cloth.
    Made as seen in the videos, please note I also hand sewed the shoulder seam and sleeve seam as well as the lining, the collar and lapels.
    All that one would expect on Savile row.

    This was the final fit, the client was due back after six weeks for final inspection. He has since started running everyday and would like to wait
    until he has dispelled all excess body weight before have the garment taken in at no extra cost.

    Thank you for taking the time to view my work and videos and look forward to contributing to this forum.

    Best wishes,
    Rory Duffy
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 17, 2014
    2 people like this.
  8. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Ok can someone explain how I put an image up here, am a tailor not much of a computer wiz.
    Can you see the image of is it just me?
     
  9. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    I can see the two images by clicking on their links. Very nice.
     
  10. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Rory, you should first upload the example photos to your blog and then add the photo links on SF with [​IMG]. It's more convenient to use.
     
  11. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    I'm not going to nitpick (although I will say that in that price range I think the little details are crucial) but it is difficult to look at the front facing picture and not notice that the left side of the suit hangs about 3 inches lower than the right, even though the wearer's left shoulder appears much higher than the right. The symmetry between left and right looks very off. I could leaving the shoulders natural (although I don't really like the look) but the length on each side should certainly be the same.
     
  12. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    You are mistaken Sir.
    Its not a straight on shot, as the suggestion usually state, apologies for this.
    Also there is very little chance a 3" difference in length is something that either myself or my client would miss or would ever happen with my work. As the fore parts are shaped pinned to together, mark stitches matched and cut one off the other I can't see how such an error could ever occur.
    The coat is also buttoned if there was a difference in length it would appear above the button position.
    Have another look if you please.
     
  13. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    I haven't suggested it is straight on. I specifically said front facing. And I dont think it is the camera angle. The shoulder is significantly higher on the same side as the lower length. In any event, one can only comment on the pictures you post. I note the same assymetry in both pictures with respect to the shoulders. Is that intentional? Are you saying it is just an effect of the photo?
     
  14. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Nice looking suit. I agree with Rory- the perceived asymmetry looks like it is due to camera angle in both photos.
     
  15. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Sorry not sure what you mean. When a client has a low shoulder I cut it low rather than pad it up. As a result the notch of the lapel are at different heights but the lapel and facings are the same length. This gentleman did have a considerable drop and a sloped shoulder, the pads are one ply or 1/4" thick.

    On a plane to London will check in later, have a nice Saturday Agjiffy.
     
  16. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Hey Agjiffy,
    Thank you for your patiences, have arrived safe in London.

    Took another look at your comments and the pics I provided and now understand what you mean. This client has a 7/8" right low shoulder. As I said in my last post the collar is shorter on the right side as it is closer to the shoulder seam. Since the left shoulder is higher, the collar is longer on that. It is purposeful and for asymmetry as you suggest.

    We usually refer to the gorge or notch or lapel, not facing. The facing does make up the lapel but once the coat is made up the facing is refer to as the cloth on the inside of the garment and not visible in these images.

    Apologies for my confusion, we us different terms.

    Hope this answers your question.
     
  17. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    FWIW, I believe I saw you [Rory] here in South Williamsburg walking north from Broadway some snowy days ago. You were wearing a military style greatcoat with a belted back, and knee high leather boots. It was a very good look. Was the coat your own make?
     
  18. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    Rory,

    I have enjoyed your videos, hopefully more will follow some day. It is good to see another tailor on this forum. Your knowledge will be a great resource...
     
  19. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NY
    

    That was me alright. I pick up that greatcoat at Beacon's closet as a reference piece and really liked the fit. Wore my bespoke overcoat on a rainy day in Manhattan, it got soaked through, decided to give it a rest for awhile.

    Use to make those Greatcoats at Joseph Martins in Ireland during my first apprenticeship and I always wanted one! He still produces clothing for the Irish army.
    Plan to put together a cashmere one for next year, or perhaps a British warm. Haven't decide yet.

    Ideal for the weather we've been having, the boots too. You should have said "hello".
    Do you live in Williamsburg as well?
     
  20. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Check out my vimeo and/or my YouTube channel, Macie & Kev my too apprentices are working on some more vids for all to see.
    Sadly Montauk is too busy with other projects too edit "The Making of a Coat", but promises he'll get back to it soon.

    In the meantime Kev has almost finished "How to Draft Brace-top trousers", and Macie has uploaded "How to tie a Knot in Thread" and "How to use a Needle & Thimble".

    Hope there will be a new video on there every other week at least.
     

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