Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC

[Veremund]

It doesn't matter if you like it. It only matters if the client likes it.

 

[Henry Carter]



This is a Rory Duffy double breasted.
Well i not doubt his manual skill...but the silhouette of this DB is ugly,
5000$ for this?

The client could be 6 foot 5 with a gut for all you know, throwing the silhouette off when it's on a mannequin that fits a 40r. This is not a rtw garment.... The pockets aren't to mine, and probably a lot of peoples tastes but that has little relevance on a bespoke garment, with details chosen presumably by the client.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

You can't tell much of a garment on a mannequin...

 

[carpu65]

It doesn't matter if you like it. It only matters if the client likes it.

Absolutly!
But he can make a different double breasted or is his only DB house style?

 

[taxgenius]



You can't tell much of a garment on a mannequin...

so why do they even bother posting it?

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

I suspect most tailors don't know how to showcase their work in pics, especially not to the standards of the iGentry.

That, and when discussing a silhouette, it should be noted that it refers to the specific outline of a design only. Not the actually details or techniques.

A straight on shot would work best in dissecting a suit's silhouette...

 

[Henry Carter]

Correct above re silhouette.

@taxgenius I'd strongly suspect that a small bespoke operation wouldn't have the kind of money and definitely not the kind of time to make sample garments purely to put on a mannequin for show, so they show off whatever they can.

@carpu65 I don't think anyone has those kind of pockets as a house style (well I hope not).

 

[dopey]



...
@carpu65 I don't think anyone has those kind of pockets as a house style (well I hope not).

Maurice Sedwell does (meaning hacking pockets with flaps cut to be level to the floor). Or, more to the point, Andrew Ramroop developed them and thinks they are quite cool. He may have, in fact, been the first as I haven't seem them anywhere earlier. In any event, it is likely that is where Duffy got the idea, directly or indirectly.

 

[David Reeves]

...

Correct above re silhouette.

@taxgenius I'd strongly suspect that a small bespoke operation wouldn't have the kind of money and definitely not the kind of time to make sample garments purely to put on a mannequin for show, so they show off whatever they can.

Absolutely, You show off what you can or what you have.

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[carpu65]

Is a nice jacket (and i like a style more built)... Pity only for the low gorge.

PS.
The collar on back,sever only because the guy with the glass hava a hand on the shoulder of Mr Yamato?

 

[David Reeves]



Is a nice jacket (and i like a style more built)... Pity only for the low gorge.

PS.
The collar on back,sever only because the guy with the glass hava a hand on the shoulder of Mr Yamato?

His head is leaning forward a bit.

 

[lordsuperb]

It looks like a well fitting jacket, and I'm sure if it was a bespoke tradgedy he wouldn't be socializing with it on while being photographed. It's also nice to see a structured garment on the Styleforum the jacket doesn't make him look like a linebacker. I think there is too much group think for soft shoulders/tailoring. Each one has its place.

 

[David Reeves]



It looks like a well fitting jacket, and I'm sure if it was a bespoke tradgedy he wouldn't be socializing with it on while being photographed. It's also nice to see a structured garment on the Styleforum the jacket doesn't make him look like a linebacker. I think there is too much group think for soft shoulders/tailoring. Each one has its place.

I am thinking about setting up a thread for pictures of structured English tailoring. Was thinking of calling it "The Empire Strikes Back".

 

[Rory Duffy]

This is a Rory Duffy double breasted.
Well i not doubt his manual skill...but the silhouette of this DB is ugly,
5000$ for this?

This suit is not part of my Handcrafted suit line, as i made it as a personal garment while working on the row. Not a silhouette shot, rather to show the pocket details as an option as well as the smoked pearl buttons. As for the shape, the difference between my SB and DB is 3" on the front edge, so the nipped waist you see on my avatar is the same in this coat visible from a straight on shot ,which this clearly isn't.
Dopey got it, saw this detail in Sedwells window and used it. Don't think Andrew Ramproo designed it, Savile row have been making "Delta" pockets since the '60's, according to the presser at Pooles.
The pocket are slanted and the pocket edge is straight to follow the hem line, the Ticket pocket above the right cross pocket is straight with a slanted flap to complete the look.

Its not a house style just another one of the endless options available to my clients