Romano martegani shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jcusey, Jun 28, 2004.

  1. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    TimelessRider - actually I did'nt detail the perfed insoles; I chose the more traditional leather insole. I have not done that before and was concerned it might effect the fit. I will learn more about it as we go along. I work the same as Chuck; we can tweak things each season if we see fit, and it seems to be an improvement to the product. I will think on it-
     


  2. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    bigbadbuff - stop in and say hi sometime. Due to the flood I am at Lakeside all the time now.
     


  3. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    Good plan. You'll get the best possible criticism from forum members.
     


  4. Lomezz

    Lomezz Senior member

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    bengal Stripe and Rider:

    According to the diagram, the rapid stitch is used to attach sole #2 to sole #1/welt, so I assume it is used mainly for double leather soled shoes. However, I have a pair of Barney's brand shoes which have "lavorazione blake-rapid' stamped on the sole, but they are a single leather sole. What would the rapid stitch be needed for in a single sole shoe, then?
     


  5. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The "Rapid" bit refers to the machine that is used to lockstitch the soles to the welt. In a classic Goodyear welted shoe, the welt is stitched to the underside of the insole (with a Goodyear machine using a chain stitch), the stitching is neither visible from inside of the shoe, nor from the outside as it is covered by the sole. In Blake construction there is a row of stitching visible from inside the shoe.

    You can use the Blake machine to stitch either a strip of leather (welt) around the shoe or you use a thin sole (not thicker than a traditional welt which covers the entire sole). In both case you have glued them into place and then you secure them with a row of Blake stitching.

    Thereafter you than use the Rapid machine which stitches the sole from the outside onto the welt or the thin sole. You can easily produce a single soled shoe with the "Blake - Rapid" method. (A single-soled shoe has two layers, the welt and the outsole; while a double-soled shoe has the welt, the middle sole and the outsole).

    Blake is the most widely used construction method in Italy. A manufacturer will have only few (if any) Goodyear machines to stitch on the welt in the traditional manner. Equally your staff is much more used to using the Blake machines. Just utilize what is available to you.
     


  6. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Can't add anything to that description - right on.
     


  7. Lomezz

    Lomezz Senior member

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    Once again I'm astounded by the depth of knowledge exhibited by forum members. Thanks, Bengal, for a most informative answer. I've checked my Barney's shoes again, and sure enough, there appears to be a thin layer seperate from the sole which I assume to be a welt/thin sole.
     


  8. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    For those that are interested, here are some more pics from R.Martegani line that will be available soon. Â Thank you for all the calls and emails.[​IMG][/IMG][​IMG][/IMG][​IMG][/IMG][​IMG][/IMG][​IMG][/IMG][​IMG][/IMG][​IMG][/IMG][​IMG][/IMG] The UThroat and UWing are on the same last as the Medallion toe, not the narrower one pictured.
     


  9. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    RIDER's images fixed: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] RIDER, you had extra [​IMG]
     


  10. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    RIDER, just out of curiosity, could you describe these two shoes in shoe-retailer-ese?
     


  11. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    I laughing now - sorry, I'm much better in the store.

    These two models, as well as the original model in this thread, are part of the same family, with the same appeal, IMO. They are different takes on traditional patterns; nice antiqued leather, high crown, elongated lasts. Top picture is a 'U Throat' cap toe with asymetrical topline/quarters with mini pinking. Second is a 'U Wing' long wing bal.
     


  12. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Rider, those are some pretty shoes.

    A question: how well do these type of shoes sell in the States? Are there enough people who are willing to pay for such goods?
     


  13. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Well, I hope so. These are new models for me - the Medallion toe has sold very well so far. I am a small shop, I usually only buy 9-15 pair of a style, so the amount of shoes I sell is very small. Plus, we go to Italy direct so we offer excellent value, IMO. The Martegani shoes retail in my shop for $325.00. Also, I am going to offer forum members $50.00 discount for first order (when I can get our computer guy to show mw how to post an on-line coupon) so, in this case, $275.00 is a great price for a unique and well made shoe. Again, my opinion.
     


  14. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Then that (even without the discount) is an excellently priced shoe, almost a bargain. And from jcusey's description, worth every cent.
     


  15. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    Mr. RIDER,
    I don't know if I have missed anything on the website or on the posts, could you formal introduce the shoemaker to us? Where he is from, his apprenticeship or heritage, or his company, different lines, etc.?

    Naturlaut
     


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