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RM Williams Boots - Everything You Wanted to Know

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sator, Sep 18, 2006.

  1. Tez Mulan

    Tez Mulan Senior member

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    this somewhat jives with the sizing guide on the first page. for the forum special w/ screwed sole, the recommendation is actually up a whole size (and down on width). but I think that is on a different last than your claret of course, there is debate here whether or not a half size is any longer than a half size down, or just wider. (ie is a 7.5 really longer than a 7?). I'm not sure if what was every resolved
    hmm., so if my Craftsman 7.5G fit good, for a brass screwed sole variant I need to go to 8.5F ? If I start buying boots again, my missus will ask for a divorce New wish list as of 12 March 2010: - - Macquarie Veal BLACK, Brass Screwed Sole. 8.5F - Crafstman Yearling BLACK, Brass Screwed Sole. 8.5F - Craftsman Yearling CLARET, Brass Screwed Sole. 8.5F - Craftsman Yearling CHESTNUT, Brass Screwed Sole. 8.5F
     
  2. makewayhomer

    makewayhomer Senior member

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    hmm., so if my Craftsman 7.5G fit good, for a brass screwed sole variant I need to go to 8.5F ? If I start buying boots again, my missus will ask for a divorce
    well, my summation of personal fit conversions, from the front page, is: 8.5 E Allen Edmonds Park Avenue = 7.5 G in Craftsman in Roo or Calf. if Yearling, consider 7.5 H for the Forum Special (flat heel, B529 last, French veal calf, brass screwed leather soles) 8.5 E Allen Edmonds Park Avenue = 8.5 F Forum Special. if you prefer a tight fit, 8.5 E. if you go with Yearling, consider 8.5 G. for the Yearling, it seems as though leather choice alone does not dictate a wider width. Sator said more like 1/4 to 1/2 a letter in width. but if the Roo is tight, I would probably go up a width with Yearling *************** I have only tried this once, with the Roo Comfort Craftsman, and it worked fine. since I am a larger 8.5 (I generally wear 9 except in the PA) I could probably go up a length and be fine.
     
  3. Patrick Stella

    Patrick Stella New Member

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    Thanks for this great post.

    Is the "forum special" still on? Has anyone from the USA tried ordering through the website recently?
     
  4. DECEMBER

    DECEMBER Senior member

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    I wonder how a buckle boot converted to the forum special would look
     
  5. DECEMBER

    DECEMBER Senior member

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    Would be nice if we could just find a RMW shoemaker to answer the sizing questions once and for all.

    What exactly is the B529 last? Is it a "round toe" or a "narrow medium toe?" I can't find it on any catalogue model... What's the difference between the B529 last and the Macquarie?

    I think that'd be too big.. What are your feet measurement on a brannock device? I'm guessing you're like 9D which is why the 7.5 isn't working out.
    My feet measure exactly 8D (almost an E).. and 8D in AE PA are also close to the best fit for my feet... Same with most other shoes, including sneakers, weird huh?

    I went with 7G in screwed sole craftsman and they fit fine. I think my big toe only has 1/4 an inch of space or less in the front.
    No complaints, though I wonder if I could have gotten the same fit or better with a different combination of length/width,
    which I'll never know unless I decide to spend another $300+ on an extra pair of shoes I don't need in order to find out.

    Oh yea, what size are both of your buckle boots and how do those fit?
     
  6. Tez Mulan

    Tez Mulan Senior member

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    Would be nice if we could just find a RMW shoemaker to answer the sizing questions once and for all.

    What exactly is the B529 last? Is it a "round toe" or a "narrow medium toe?" I can't find it on any catalogue model... What's the difference between the B529 last and the Macquarie?



    I think that'd be too big.. What are your feet measurement on a brannock device? I'm guessing you're like 9D which is why the 7.5 isn't working out.
    My feet measure exactly 8D (almost an E).. and 8D in AE PA are also close to the best fit for my feet... Same with most other shoes, including sneakers, weird huh?

    I went with 7G in screwed sole craftsman and they fit fine. I think my big toe only has 1/4 an inch of space or less in the front.
    No complaints, though I wonder if I could have gotten the same fit or better with a different combination of length/width,
    which I'll never know unless I decide to spend another $300+ on an extra pair of shoes I don't need in order to find out.

    Oh yea, what size are both of your buckle boots and how do those fit?



    8F too big, I could be a 9D? that's really confusing now


    OK, my sizing experience

    - 1 x Craftsman, 1 x Macquarie 7.5G - both fit fine

    - 1 x Buckle Boot 7.5G - too loose

    -1 x Buckle Boot 7.5G, brass screwed sole - better than above but looser fit than the first 2 items

    - 1 x Craftsman, 1 x Macquarie, 7.5G, brass screwed sole - both too snug


    Reading the sizing recomendations in the OP, if I bought a buckle boot again with a brass screwed sole, I should go 7.5F so it's slightly narrower than the one's I already have; and if I buy Craftsman or Macquarie with the same sole, I should go up a whole size - to 8.5, and down two widths to make it an 8.5E

    I think I've got my head around it all now
     
  7. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    If I start buying boots again, my missus will ask for a divorce


    So a new pair of boots would be a win/win?
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. DECEMBER

    DECEMBER Senior member

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    8F too big, I could be a 9D? that's really confusing now


    OK, my sizing experience

    - 1 x Craftsman, 1 x Macquarie 7.5G - both fit fine

    - 1 x Buckle Boot 7.5G - too loose

    -1 x Buckle Boot 7.5G, brass screwed sole - better than above but looser fit than the first 2 items

    - 1 x Craftsman, 1 x Macquarie, 7.5G, brass screwed sole - both too snug


    Reading the sizing recomendations in the OP, if I bought a buckle boot again with a brass screwed sole, I should go 7.5F so it's slightly narrower than the one's I already have; and if I buy Craftsman or Macquarie with the same sole, I should go up a whole size - to 8.5, and down two widths to make it an 8.5E

    I think I've got my head around it all now


    Woops, I meant what are your feet measurement on a brannock? (my guess is 9D)

    Weird how the brass-screwed fits you differently.

    I don't get the whole sizing up and dropping down 2-3 in the width... can it be done for the B543 last on the buckle-boot / craftsman to achieve an elongated / slender look? (I think the OP only recommended that sizing method for the forum special)
     
  9. LTM

    LTM Well-Known Member

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    December,
    according to my 2008 catalogue B529 is described as 'medium toe' and can be combined with the flat, rubber and ladies heel. Styles available are: turnout jodhpur, gardener, bass, gammon, wentworth, bushman, territorian and pilbara.
    It appears rounder than the Queenslander, which is B536. There is only the Queenslander style listed for that and is an 'x' fitting. There is 'wide toe' B530, same styles available, and extra wide toe B531, again the same styles are listed, this is all listed on pg 88, towards the back of the 2008 catalogue, so you might need to poke around the back of the current online one. They distinguish between flat heel and 'high' heel and the medium, wide and extra wide come with both heels.
    Would the US shop mail you a catalogue?
    I own a pair of AE in 10D that fit nicley. I have 9G in craftsman and 9H in comfort craftsman.
    Macquarie is B555 'narrow medium toe', the toe appears more tapered into a point than the B529.
     
  10. Tez Mulan

    Tez Mulan Senior member

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    So a new pair of boots would be a win/win?



    lol

    but only if I can figure out the right sizes
     
  11. DECEMBER

    DECEMBER Senior member

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    thx for info LTM.

    Forum Special buckle boot... this I wanna see. though i'm guessing isn't possible. Is the buckle boot on it's own last? (B653) even though it's identical to B543.. There's nothing about the B653 available combinations in the catalogue.
     
  12. rbny

    rbny Senior member

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    Sizing experiment continues.

    I was at the RM Williams Store in NYC yesterday with a buddy who is a 10-10.5 D in most dress shoes. He tried on a 9.5G Comfort Craftsman and after a few minutes, he thought that it fit him so well that he bought it even though I told him that he would save about $100 USD by getting it online.

    While I was there I decided to special order a second Comfort Turnout in Chestnut in 9F (I didn't follow my own advice[​IMG] ) after trying on a few pairs of the standard Turnout in 9F. I've been wearing my current black Comfort Turnout in 9G for the past two months and it is now slightly looser than I would like. I wear a 9.5 D in AE Park Avenue and that shoe fits me perfectly. The Comfort Turnout in 8.5 G width are too short. I'll post my experience after I get the 9F. The store associate did tell me that my 9G can be re-lasted into a narrower fit if I decide that it's become too loose. This is something I may consider at a later time if the 9F works out to be a better size for me.

    One thing I did notice is that I seem to like the toe shape of the Comfort Craftsman more than the standard Craftsman. It appealed to me so much that I'm seriously considering ordering a pair of the Comfort Craftsman once I decide what will be my size. I think the internal toe cap that comes with the Comfort style looks less angular. Anyone else notice this?
     
  13. rbny

    rbny Senior member

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    One more thing, I am planning on calling the NYC store where I ordered my Comfort Turnout yesterdday and request that a storm welt be added to the boot.
     
  14. upnorth

    upnorth Senior member

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    I am contemplating either a pair of C&J Chelsea in Chestnut or RM Williams Craftsman. Since C&J ships for free, the overall cost is only about $30 more than a pair of RM Williams Craftsman, considering also that the pound has fallen vis a vis the Aussie dollar.

    Is the leather and construction for Bench grade C&J boots better than RM Williams and worth the (very small) premium in price?
     
  15. DECEMBER

    DECEMBER Senior member

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  16. amce

    amce Senior member

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    I am contemplating either a pair of C&J Chelsea in Chestnut or RM Williams Craftsman. Since C&J ships for free, the overall cost is only about $30 more than a pair of RM Williams Craftsman, considering also that the pound has fallen vis a vis the Aussie dollar.

    Is the leather and construction for Bench grade C&J boots better than RM Williams and worth the (very small) premium in price?


    My 2¢: AFAIK the C&J is not a wholecut. RM's are. IMO a Chelsea should be a wholecut.


    Cheers
     
  17. upnorth

    upnorth Senior member

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    I don't know any real advantage to a wholecut other than the fact that a larger piece of leather with flawless surface area has to be chosen. This is represented by an absence of seam under the side gussets.

    However, it still has rear seams so I feel the meaning of a wholecut is lost. I would be more interested in a comparison in the quality of the leather used for both as well as overall construction.
     
  18. rbny

    rbny Senior member

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    I own the Chepstow C&J Chukkas which I've had for about 5 years in black cavalry leather with a dainite sole. I think that my RMW Comfort Turnout in black yearling leather is made as well, minus the storm welt on the Chepstow (which is very well done and subtle). The leathers are different and I think that the leathers used by RMW on their RTW line are high quality but they are different than leathers used by C&J benchgrade.

    I really like C&J and if their lasts fit you better than RMW's you should go with it. The C&J 325 last fits me well around my instep and forefoot but not in my heel and ankle area where that part of my foot is on the narrow side. The C&J Chelsea 5 in their 335 last (which I have not tried on) is something I would consider if that last fit me better than RMW.
     
  19. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    My 2¢: AFAIK the C&J is not a wholecut. RM's are. IMO a Chelsea should be a wholecut.


    Cheers


    +1

    The overall end product is superior IMO as a wholecut.
     
  20. rm fan

    rm fan New Member

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