Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sir F, May 14, 2012.
Those Kiton ads are really fantastic, B
I've never felt that at all, and I'm the kind of person who buys into almost anything with a decent advert.
To me the RLPL always looked like something you'd see trying to represent the real world. For example if you've read An Inspectre Calls, I would happily set the entire play in a RLPL advert.
There is something a little false about the whole thing. Like someone putting on a play about new money. It feels like a period drama, not a life being lived.
You do have a point. But the fact is it is an ~40 year old American company that aims for an ~80 year old anglo-american aesthetic so it is inherently disingenuous.
As for the Kiton ads, I think that is more lighthearted Italian vs. British/American. Italians supposedly are more concerned about looking as if they don't take themselves or their clothes too seriously and that's expressed in these ads. The austere aesthetic in RLPL ads or what you might feel walking into a savile row shop are just a different attitude.
I'm surprised at both your finding the RLPL ads lacking in humour and your feeling that those Kiton ones are sophisticated in their deployment of humour.
RLPL ads are tremendously entertaining precisely because of their over-the-top earnestness. They are overstylised to the point of being an ironic pastiche of what a clothes advert should be, in the same way that the clothes themselves are stylised to the point of being an ironic pastiche of what English clothes are meant to look like. There's a tongue-in-cheek quality to the earnestness that screams out in a very camp voice. It's terribly entertaining to see these ads, and I sincerely doubt that those creating the ads aren't aware of that quality. I doubt they'd ever say it publicly, because that would destroy the fantasy, but the clothes, the poses, and the models are all so ridiculously arch that I have to believe it's intentionally camp.
Even if not intended that way, that amusingly arch/ironic quality definitely appeals to my jaded eye, so I'm surprised it doesn't to yours! Maybe it's just a culturally embedded trait to enjoy laughing at people making an effort while simultaneously rather enjoying the effect it creates.
The Kiton ads feel far more generic to me; very typical "look at us being clever with the branding here" advertising humour.
I'd argue that the RLPL ones are better as can viewed on two levels (the superficial "serious" one, and the pastiche I see them as, thus appealing to two sets of consumers) whereas the Kiton ones are more unidimensional and feel to me like they're trying too hard to be cool and sophisticated.
While it is possible that RL Inc and its hired hands are slyly making fun of its customers, I think it more likely that what you view as camp is everyday operating obsequiousness to the proven marketing success of s single message over three decades. Try joking about Apple at an Apple meeting, or any other dominant American enterprise.
True believers only. Period.
Those ads are less Algonquin Round Table, and more Heavens Gate. I rather doubt any advertiser finding humor in Ralph Lauren's lifestyle branding would last long in a meeting with the company's bureaucracy.
As for the Kiton ads: I'm not sure that I said that they were sophisticated...just more so for attempting to show aspects of life absent from the RL ads. They had some more interesting ones that I couldn't find quickly...in the few American publications in which they appeared, they stood out dramatically from the usual RL, Gucci, Hermes, etc type of thing. At least, I thought so.
You're probably right re: motives/intent.
Still, regardless of intent, I certainly derive more entertainment from the RL ads. And that enjoyment in itself makes me still like the brand, even if I hardly have any of it left in my wardrobe these days.
Mind you, I find myself chuckling at quite a few Tom Ford and Dolce & Gabbana ads too, so perhaps my sense of humour is rather disturbingly skewed.
Well maybe you are right, never thought about it that way. I sitll like it but not all RL adv... are like this?
He has a twist on it, if you dont take RLPL for a second and look at this, you see that he has his own thing. And I think it's perfect...
This should answer your question:
The Purple Label ads are always great; I like to grab the pamphlets when I see them. Also good ones are Phineas Cole by Paul Stuart .
Hm didn't know about that, google it. Looks little like purple label, there adv.. that is.
To me, these ads are meant to reflect the old money WASPY northeast lifestyle, or at least what people think that is. A big part of the appeal seems to be the "man of leisure" implications, such as wearing a three piece pinstripe suit, not because you're going to work, but because you are going to a nice lunch in the south of france or the hamptons.
I can definitely see the appeal behind the advertising and yes it is beautiful, even if the actuality of that background/lifestyle isn't what is depicted for many (less these days anyway).
+1, the RLPL ads are so enjoyable on so many levels- wonderful and ridiculous simultaneously. I could see these being made into paintings, wallpaper etc. I think I need to statrt collecting them.
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