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RLBL Suit Critique - Pictures

KaiserSose

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So I was fortunate enough to happen upon a RLBL suit for $560. This is my first real suit so I don't know much about how things are supposed to fit. Please be very open with your critiques both of the fit and the style. I plan to get some things adjusted. The camera is not very great so just in case there is confusion it is charcoal with very faint white stripes.

Once again please ignore my fat neck.







 

Irond Will

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Odd bit of tugging at that top button, and a little of the same at the bottom button. It looks like it might be a bit tight on your waist - especially at the top of your gut. Maybe you can have it let out a tad. To my eye, it looks good on your shoulders, chest and arms.
 

Ich_Dien

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I think it drapes a little oddly around the chest, pulling away from the neck. Left shoulder doesn't fit right, but only off by a bit. Otherwise a good fit. Undo the bottom button.
 

Pylon

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+1 on the undo the bottom button. Rule is: "Sometimes, Always, Never", or "Always, Never" if there are only two buttons.

To me, the sleeves look a tiny bit too long.
 

KaiserSose

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Originally Posted by jimmyoneill
I think it drapes a little oddly around the chest, pulling away from the neck. Left shoulder doesn't fit right, but only off by a bit. Otherwise a good fit. Undo the bottom button.

What would cause the draping around the chest... I'm not that familiar with that term. What exactly does that mean?

Ignore the sleeves, those will certainly get altered.

Also when you guys say let it out, what am I letting out?

Please give your comments as if I am a complete noob.. which I am. I want to use your comments to sound somewhat educated at the tailors.
 

MetroStyles

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For some reason Black Label suits always have that little bit of extra fabric on the pants right above the knee. It's quite annoying.
 

Icarium

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I'm sure more experienced minds will correct me if I'm wrong - letting out the waist on a double-vented suit usually involves releasing a bit of the darting at the waist and/or the back center seam.

It is always a little hard to tell from pics, but I think they are referring to the way the lapels seem to be pulling off your body a bit. Ideally, the lapels rest on the back of your neck, travel down and across you collar bones, then across your chest to the button. It should lay nice and flat all the way around your neck, collar, and chest. Prefect fit would show no buckling or puckering away from your body of the lapel fabric (of course, lapels would also lay flat on a jacket that is too large... it is a fine balance).

What is your raw chest circuference (taken just under the arms, relaxed posture)?

Anyone think that the tight waist could be affecting the way the lapels are behaving? Perhaps if he let the waist out things might work themselves out... If the chest itself is too small, that would be a different story. RLBL are a little weird as far as the shoulder vs. chest measurement I noticed.

Edit: I wanted to add, perhaps sort of an oblique shot would be good. We can get a better perspective of how the lapel is behaving.
 

KObalto

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Other than the obvious (sleeves, pants length), the jacket is a bit small in the chest and needs to be "let out". Your tailor will understand. No big deal, nice score for a first suit. Enjoy. You can get pickier later.
Post after you have it altered and we can really tear it up for you.
 

Icarium

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My understanding is that the chest usually cannot be "let out" at all. I thought chest, shoulders, and upper arm fit are all dangerous and/or impossible to alter. Shoulders can be perhaps narrowed if the tailor is very good. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

KaiserSose

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All, thanks for the comments!

Icarium: The lapels seem to sit pretty flat but maybe I'm missing something.. I will post oblique pictures in a few minutes.

My raw chest is 37" but that number may be kind of deceiving. I have very very large pecks for someone my size (hopefully this doesn't come off as a brag because I thought it may be relevant.

Do you think a good plan of action is to have the sleeves altered / pants adjusted / chest let out (will the tailor know how much?) and then come back for more advice?

There are no problems that can't be fixed with it are there?
 

Icarium

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Like I mentioned, pictures are deceiving. I was just trying to infer what jimmyoneill and irondwill were observing about the lapels. The main thing I do see is the tugging on the top button there. I am not knowledgable enough to tell you if that is due to the chest being too small for you (hard to fix) or if it is the waist (easy to fix). Wait and see what others say... if you know a really good tailor, you could always take the suit there. Point out what you believe may be problems and see what he/she says. I took a suit to Felice Custom Tailoring in San Diego once, and he told me, flat out, "I could take your money, but I won't be able to make this fit." A good tailor cannot be underrated. Edit: 37" chest?? I am 5'10/140lb soaking wet and I have a 37" chest. Your pic makes you look alot bigger than me... although I could be mistaken.
 

Mute

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It's very close to an excellent fit. Let out the waist a little bit to relief some of that tugging. That should also correct the effect that some have noted with the lapels. Also your sleeves are too long. I would guess about an inch, but best to let your tailor help you decide. Make sure to wear your best fitting dress shirt when you go to the tailor. Otherwise I think you made a great purchase. A solid price.
 

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