RL Black Label to merge with Purple Label

[vida]

I was told by an SA at the Madison Avenue location that Black Label is being merged into the Purple Label line. Thus, there will now only be Polo and Purple. He said that the suiting would retain the same silhouette and the price point would remain the same to keep the BL client base. He further added that there would be "tiers" within PL line. Does anyone know about this new direction at Ralph?

 

[jerrybrowne]



I was told by an SA at the Madison Avenue location that Black Label is being merged into the Purple Label line. Thus, there will now only be Polo and Purple. He said that the suiting would retain the same silhouette and the price point would remain the same to keep the BL client base. He further added that there would be "tiers" within PL line. Does anyone know about this new direction at Ralph?

Seems like a bad move although they clearly know what they are doing. It's been a long time since I shopped at Ralph Lauren, but I remember the Purple label and Black label customer coming from different demographics.

 

[usctrojans31]

Obviously don't have sales data, but this does seem odd.

 

[Dmanf51]

Doesn't sound like much of a change more so just an elimination of a label and I hope that's the case, I'd hate to lose BL suits. If Purple label absorbs Black and becomes tiered it is essentially the same as we have now minus the additional label. Purple label caters to a much different clientele and their RTW pieces are few, so adding the BL line of suits at the sub $2k price point would certainly dilute the prestige of PL. Still we'll further confirmation on this but there's been a lot of changes at RL recently.

 

[itzafugasi]

A family member of mine works for RL and a few months back at their yearly meeting it was indicated that the BL line was losing money and not doing well. So, what you're describing makes sense given the circumstances. Not a confirmation on my part, just putting the pieces together.

 

[comrade]

I must be out of touch because i thought that Black Label was,
at least few seasons back, an updated traditional cut and a direct
descendant of the original Ralph Lauren " Ivy -style" clothing.
Purple Label offered an English Savile Row cut with built up shoulders
and nipped waist, at a higher price point. Price difference aside, the
Black Label customer would not necessarily be intersested in Purple Label.
Now it seems that Black Label now consists of Italian short jacket, close to the body
"tiny suits"- the current fad. That in itself might explain the abandonment of the
label by its' traditional (in more ways than one) clientele.

 

[vida]

BL was always its' own cut. English, yes, but in the style of the "Conduit" cut... think Bond in the 60's. Ralph once referred to this as inspiration in an early interview about BL styling. The cornerstone of the tailored suiting is the Anthony model which, as far as I know, hasn't changed since it was first introduced. Over the past few years other models have been added to the line offering softer shoulders and a bit shorter jackets.
If one is lean and well proportioned (think triathlete, soccer player) then BL is a great cut. Most other options in a suit that trim would lean too much toward the fashion end if the spectrum. Personally, I think it looks fairly traditional for a trim fitting cut. Much in the same way Formosa looks traditional in a southern Italian way.
I never thought there was a lot of room for the initial concept to expand because of the very specific vision behind the label. To me the very technical sportswear never seemed in line with the tailored side so perhaps it just hit a design ceiling.
I know that as of a few years ago it was possible to do mtm with BL using PL fabrics, so a consolidation of the labels may have been considered for some time. I did notice that the fit of PL sweaters have gotten much slimmer and therefore closer in fit to BL recently.

 

[jrd617]

Was just about to comment about this. @comrade

RLBL definitely isn't "ivy style." (Soft shouldered "sack suit")

RL himself described it as being inspired by the Kilgour suits in North By Northwest. It's a very slim take on Savile Row.

The Anthony model is very built up in the shoulders

http://www.gq.com/style/suit-guide/200501/ralph-lauren-black-label

BL was always its' own cut. English, yes, but in the style of the "Conduit" cut... think Bond in the 60's. Ralph once referred to this as inspiration in an early interview about BL styling. The cornerstone of the tailored suiting is the Anthony model which, as far as I know, hasn't changed since it was first introduced. Over the past few years other models have been added to the line offering softer shoulders and a bit shorter jackets.
If one is lean and well proportioned (think triathlete, soccer player) then BL is a great cut. Most other options in a suit that trim would lean too much toward the fashion end if the spectrum. Personally, I think it looks fairly traditional for a trim fitting cut. Much in the same way Formosa looks traditional in a southern Italian way.
I never thought there was a lot of room for the initial concept to expand because of the very specific vision behind the label. To me the very technical sportswear never seemed in line with the tailored side so perhaps it just hit a design ceiling.
I know that as of a few years ago it was possible to do mtm with BL using PL fabrics, so a consolidation of the labels may have been considered for some time. I did notice that the fit of PL sweaters have gotten much slimmer and therefore closer in fit to BL recently.

 

[vida]

That is the exact article I was referring to. Could not remember where I had seen it. That is actually 10 years ago!

 

[LA Guy]

Seems like a bad move although they clearly know what they are doing. It's been a long time since I shopped at Ralph Lauren, but I remember the Purple label and Black label customer coming from different demographics.

ime, the Black Label customer simply does not exist in sufficient numbers. It's Gucci lite, but at (slightly) sub-Gucci prices. It's not priced low enough to get the aspirational shopper, but priced too low to compete for the affluent customer looking for that more urbane look.

I heard that RRL is going to be discontinued as well. Of course, all this is pure speculation right now.

 

[jerrybrowne]



I heard that RRL is going to be discontinued as well.  Of course, all this is pure speculation right now.

Now THIS would be a problem......

 

[jedwards]

It's never good to have so many sub lines.

I never saw the point of black label and I've been a "gucci guy" in the past who had to have a 'high-end' label in the back of the collar. It seemed pretty bland and meaningless.
Seem to be the same thing again and again when you see the adverts in fashion mags.

Purple Label always has had a great and unique aesthetic.

 

[Joenobody0]

Huge shoulders and a narrow waist is a tough sell in the current "natural shoulder" climate. I'm a slim guy, but having 2 inches of shoulder extension just doesn't look right these days.

 

[md2010]

Last few years RL had some big structural changes. They have bought back their resellers licence from most countries. Closed Rugby line. Introduced slimmer fits on their polo line. Even added extra small. Introduced few new suit/sc cuts and few different qualities. From fabric to manufacturing origin. Wasn't really happy with the new lower quality non Italian suits and SCs. I was afraid they will eventually shut the BL line. Put simply the buyers can fit into this line young and rather very slim. And these young market only spends during sale. Not a very good business. It will be a shame to see this disappear.

 

[md2010]



Huge shoulders and a narrow waist is a tough sell in the current "natural shoulder" climate. I'm a slim guy, but having 2 inches of shoulder extension just doesn't look right these days.

That's because the block isn't for you. It's a difficult fit - looks best on skinny guy.