Ring Jacket Japan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by conradwu, Jul 31, 2013.

  1. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Nice, but I am not sure that Ginza Yamagataya represents particularly good value for what you'll get (they are owned by the same company as budget store, Jeans Mate), although I am sure it will be okay and I hope you like it. If you were looking for value-for-money, you'd have been better off hopping on a budget flight to HK. If you were looking for high quality, then there are some really excellent proper tailors here (Daizawaguy or Nutcracker could tell you more), or you'd have actually been better off going for something RTW by Ring Jacket or another equivalent quality maker and getting it tailored as necessary.

    BTW, if you are really here (or will be here again before the end of April), I'd be very happy to buy you a drink. I'm sure we'd get on fine IRL...
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014


  2. size 38R

    size 38R Senior member

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    indeed, i'm sure we would. as we are both a$$holes. [​IMG] i mean that with the most respect.....
    however. i am not new to suiting. ( i was paid to sell it for years before university) and find the offerings at this place to be as good as the isaia suit hanging in my closet. (pick stitching, 100% made by one person, canvassed, and a cut that suits my body shape). with a fine choice of fabrics, including "Harris Tweed".- 3-peice? $1,000? yes!. as you know, there is much to choose from, and most is online. just depends on how brand concious peiple are.... AND i have a choice of 4 "Proper" Tailors, if i want to feel better about it. but the fit would be the same.

    you can't judge a workers quality on the company's "Approved status".
    Edit: i doubt any of you would regret buying a L.P MTM canvassed suit for around $,1000 best part? they can replicate my favorite suit, in any fabric i want. so stop with the "Exclusive" B.S.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014


  3. LonerMatt

    LonerMatt Senior member

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    You sold YY???? Such a champion. I want some so badly.
     


  4. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Yep both mainline, the Y's line and a comme collaboration. It was stocked at Robby Ingham in Sydney when I was the menswear manager there. Never really my style and not suited to our climate unfortunately, the fabrics were all very heavy back then, not sure if they still are (this was 10 years ago now).
     


  5. EvanM

    EvanM Well-Known Member

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    How's the fit on Ring Jacket stuff?
    I took a look at the measurements on their Rakuten shop and it looked like I'd have to size up 1 or 2 sizes to get my normal fit?
    Then again, if I just go by the measurements, it looks like their stuff is cut more for your typical slim Japanese male, so anyone who worked out at all would have a tough time fitting into one of their jackets/suits
     


  6. conradwu

    conradwu Affiliate Vendor

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    Your observation is correct. I'm average build and have to size up 1 size. If you're white and lift then you need to size up 2 sizes.
     


  7. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    If you are large by western standards in the shoulders and chest (irrespective of ethnicity), I wouldn't bother at all. The amount of tailoring involved would probably not be worth it and other measurements would be way off (particularly length, which is difficult to deal with in jackets).

    IME, Japanese tailoring, like clothes sizing all over the world, varies quite a lot in its size assumptions, but they are certainly not compatible with western vanity sizing!

    I'm short (5'5" / 165cm) but I have a real chest measurement of 37 and am not narrow in the shoulder. In western sizing, I am generally a British / US 36 (European 46, or 'Small'), although old-fashioned 37S is often the best. 38/48/Medium is always too big. In Japan, I've tried things on that were labeled as a 38/48/M that were like a western 34/44/XS in the shoulders, but on the other hand, I've also tried other brands that were perfect for me, particularly those that claim to be imitating an 'English' cut: the jacket of the Avon House 3-piece tweed I bought recently was labelled as S, and looks like it was cut just for me. I imagine for most Japanese guys, the shoulders would be rather large.

    If you're buying a suit, it is very likely that you will have to buy separates (if available) as RTW suits that come as is are likely to be way too narrow in the hips and seat). I generally take an M size trouser in Japan if the jacket size is S, but sometimes I have to take an L. In general, it's probably more trouble than it's worth trying to buy trousers in Japan if you're of average western dimensions!

    The other thing is that many Japanese brands use a 0,1,2,3, etc. scale, where 0 is usually between 32/42/XXS - 34/44/XS and so on, plus they will generally use metric measurements, except in MTM / bespoke tailoring.

    In short, if you are an average-proportioned westerner*, and are going to buy Japanese clothing:

    1. read the full sizing information very carefully;
    2. be totally honest about your own measurements;
    3. preferably try things on in person - I'd be very wary of buying any Japanese clothes over the Internet if you don't know the brand's sizing assumptions and have never tried them on before - and,
    4. however nice the stuff looks - and IME, ordinary Japanese clothes are generally of a much higher standard than ordinary western clothes - be prepared to search for longer than you are used to for something that really fits you.

    *If you an average proportioned American, I'd probably give up now.
     


  8. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I was lucky in that all the Ring Jacket gear I owned was made for Herringbone here in Australia, and cut accordingly. I'm not a small bloke, 6"2 and a 40 chest and it always fit me very well. I wouldn't dream of trying the standard Ring Jacket models you describe above.
     


  9. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    I tried on some Ring Jacket stuff at the Armoury in NYC. For reference, I'm a 42 S in most suits and sportcoats; 5'6"; broad in the shoulders, chest and back.

    -I was a 42 in the AMJ model sports coat. The length of the jacket is short; I'm 5'6" and it was perfect for me.

    -I was an XXL in the "pea coat" (really a bridge coat) and even then over a sweater it's a tad on the snug side, but still comfortable.
     


  10. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Even so, I still found that I had to go up one size in a couple of their items, as they were a little slimmer than the Osaka cut, in my experience. Then again, maybe that's just due to my proportions.
     


  11. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

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    I'm flying to Tokyo on Saturday, and I'm pretty keen to try out Ring Jacket MTM, as the winter fabrics currently available aren't especially appropriate for Australia.

    Has anyone tried MTM, and if so, how did you go? The price seems to be right!

    Also, if any Tokyoites want to get a beer over the next couple of weeks...
     


  12. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Send me a PM. I can take you to somewhere decent for beer...
     


  13. MSchapiro

    MSchapiro Senior member

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    If you guys are saying that RJ is about $700 in Japan, why the huge armoury mark up? Are they only using the higher end fabrics? If that's all mark up I could literally use the difference to get half of the trip to Japan lol.
     


  14. conradwu

    conradwu Affiliate Vendor

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    The Armoury has their own model (adjustments such as wider shoulders, enlarged sleevehead, etc.) and has some jackets made up in fabrics which aren't offered by RJ.
     


  15. StockwellDay

    StockwellDay Senior member

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    I also don't think RJ is $700 in Japan. Seems like that might be the most basic starting point for sport coats. I think $900/$1000 is where most of the suits start.
     


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