Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Roy, Jun 23, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I thought the same thing.

    One possible reason comes to mind, however. It is a whole cut and if the last were very distorted due to bespoke build-ups the maker might be worried about centering the medallions. This approach would solve that problem.

    If he's placed a piece of leather under the vamp in place of a toe stiffener he can punch into it, pull it and replace with a backing and a proper toe stiffener. No harm, no foul.
     


  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  3. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    absolutely right.
    it is a wholecut
    and the toe is not closed yet
    because he still had to add the leather toepiece

    and he had to wait for the client
    who was on holiday
    to give advice for the medallion
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011


  4. meister

    meister Senior member

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    What is that "tripe" like material used inside the shoe?
     


  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Are you looking at the underside of the crocodile?
     


  6. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Thanks for another series of great photos, Roy.

    What was surprising to me was that each hole the medallion was hand punched and widened. I thought there was one large punch for a medallion. Or maybe that's just for mass-produced rtw shoes.
     


  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ready-to-wear uses punches where all the (short) bits, are assembled on a base plate (looks rather like a printing block).
    Once placed correctly, it only needs one single punch from a heavy hydraulic press.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011


  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Many bespoke makers punch all the broguing one hole at a time, as well. Sometimes this can be critical in getting large holes, for example, in corners correctly and consistently. [Some makers will choose to put small holes --the doublet--in the corner. Although this can necessitate rotating the doublet at an angle to the line-of-broguing, it can look very refined.]
     


  9. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    ^Interesting, guys. Thanks.
     


  10. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Is that real croc? Looks embossed. Great reverse though and those kudu-sharkskins are stunning
     


  11. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    No that's real croc. It's probably from the throat of the croc. That's a little finer than the belly and definitely nicer than the back.
     


  12. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    never realized sharkskin was so popular, i thort i was the only guy to like it
     


  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    what made you think that?
     


  14. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    Here is an awesome pair of Sharkskin chukka's from T4:

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    Last edited: Jul 26, 2011


  15. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    dunno i guess it is just one of those things - exotic are rather an aquired taste
     


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